Vought OS2U Kingfisher - Monogram 1/48

Started by George R Blair Jr · 246 · 1 year ago · 1/48, Jim Sullivan Group, Monogram, Vought OS2U Kingfisher
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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Some very good progress, George @gblair
    Let's hope that replacement engine arrives soon so you can do some comparison with your MacGyver one and decide how to continue.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Excellent progress, my friend @gblair! Let's see how the replacement engine compares!

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Hi, John (@j-healy), John (@johnb), and Spiros (@fiveten). Painting continues today. I think I should be able to continue painting while I am waiting for the engine arrive. I plan to do some more fitting with the homemade engine today, but I think it is slightly too small.

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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    @gblair - Excellent progress George! Patience pays off in the end. I am looking forward to seeing pics of the pre shading process.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, Brian (@brithebuilder). Did the painting today. Photos will be along shortly.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Today was painting day. The Kingfisher will be painted in the Atlantic dark gray over white camouflage. I figured that almost any preshading will show up under the white, while black will probably be needed in the dark gray areas. I started with Tamiya white primer over the whole plane. When that had dried, I added the pre-shading. I used black in the areas that would be covered with the dark gray camouflage, then I used dark gray, gray-blue, and light blue in irregular patches in the areas that will be covered with the white camouflage. I diluted Tamiya white with about 60% X20 Thinner, then began applying thin layers of the white paint in the appropriate areas. I always have a hard time creating a soft demarcation between camo colors, so I wanted to try using tape to create the effect. I added a very thin piece of plastic strip to some masking tape and then applied the tape to the model. I hoped that the plastic would raise the tape a small amount, creating a soft demarcation when I sprayed the dark gray. This plan worked to a certain extent, but I ended up neatening the demarcation freehand. I may still need to try to sharpen the demarcation, but I will take a vote tomorrow after everything dries.

    The replacement engine won't arrive until sometime next week, but I think I can complete everything on the model except the engine and cowling. Tomorrow I will work on the demarcation, if needed, and then apply some clear gloss to prepare the surface for decals.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Eric Berg said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Great idea using that strip of plastic, George. Looks good. I’m going to try it!

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, Eric (@eb801). I am not very good free-handing camouflage, so I am always looking for techniques to help. I have read that modelers will roll up pieces of tape to lift the masking tape up a little, allowing a soft demarcation. The plastic worked well, but doesn't work well over parts of the plane that aren't flat. The canopies held the plastic strip off the center of the fuselage, allowing more overspray. That's the place where I need to sharpen the line a little.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    A very practicle approach to have a softer demarcation line, George @gblair
    The outcome looks really nice.

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    Tom Cleaver said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    @gblair: If you want to raise the tape, run thread about 1/8 in in from the edge of the mask. if you spray straight on it you get a hard edge without a ridge. If you spray toward it, you get "scale" overspray. It'seasy. You want to spray toward it on this if you decide to use the t rick.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb). It is nice to finally get it moving again.

    Ahhh, thread. Thanks, Tom (@tcinla). I had heard about raising the edge of the tape, but all the articles I had read used rolled up pieces of tape. I thought thin plastic would be more consistent, but also had its drawbacks. Thread is the perfect idea. I usually just mask the edge, paint a hard edge, and call it good. Thanks for the technique.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Excellent job so far, my friend @gblair! Indeed, using the thread trick sounds really great!

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten). Thread is on the agenda for the afternoon.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    These Kingfisher's really look nice in the Gray / White ASW scheme. I'm very fond of the pictures I posted in the beginning of your journal with a pair of these that were float planes, (and not land based at the time). They had a taxiing accident and one slammed into the other one that was moored. This happened at the NAS Banana River which is now part of the Kennedy Space Center about an hours away from us.

    The more I see how nice yours looks, the more I am tempted to drag out mine from the stash... Only yours is much better with all of these aftermarket parts. Mine would be box stock more than likely.

    Keep it going my friend... I can't wait to see how good it looks after the next painting session.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, Louis (@lgardner). I am looking forward to your Kingfisher. The kit cockpits (front and back) aren't bad at all. The basics are there. They just need a little detailing and refinement. I have two more Monogram Kingfishers in the garage, and I have just one set of resin, so the 2nd plane will be using the kit parts. The float and engine are probably the worst parts of the kit. The float is about 30% smaller than the actual float. The engine is molded as part of the cowling and most of the cowling is molded as part of the fuselage. The engine sort of looks like it is supposed to, but it is very flat in the middle. Correcting the engine, the cowling, and the float will be the hardest parts to fix. The easiest fix for the float is to make it a landplane version.