Thanks Spiros, though simple in appearance, they are bit better than the kits wheels, more sharper in what details within the wheel and the weighted feature is basically the point of using them.
Thanks John, the rear mount is a nice feature, the gun is not bad, forgot to get that into the sequence/
Tom, something I neglected to mention that, I did trim down the heads and support rings to get a better fit of the engine cowl panels.

Fantastic progress, my friend @uscusn!

Before you paint, Chuck @uscusn, check those pieces of Kabuki tape - the photos show you have some overlap into the frame areas you want to paint. Not real obvious now, but will be when the masking is removed.

This session I will apply the interior Lt Grey over the exposed framing throughout the airframe.

Next is to preshade before the final finish colors are airbrushed.

Polly Scale Russian Lt Blue Grey is then airbrused on the undersurfaces.

A simple scheme used by the N.Koreans in keeping with the then Soviet colors as used by the Chinese as well.

The upper surface is airbrushed Russian Dk Green. I used my Paasche H airbrush to freehand the soft demarcation line between the Green and the Blue surfaces.

Once the Green was airbrushed, the only other break from the monotone Green is a Black walkway strip on the RH side of the upper wing.

Next apply the Glossy clear coat and decals.

More to follow.

Very nice painting, Chuck @uscusn
That freehanded demarcation line looks great.
Indeed a nasty gap, are you going to fill it and try to hide it.

Using a leftover N. Korean MiG-15 sheet for the markings. 2 stage style of markings for the national markings. First the white base roundels are applied on the lower wing panel, upper wing panels and each side of the fuselage.

Next the red stars are placed over the white background roundels.

Very basic scheme of just ,markings and a bort number on the vertical rudder, is all that needs to be applied, no stencils or serial numbers.

This decal sheet are old but have served me well on 3 different models, 2 MiG-15's and this Tu-2. While still glossy, some weathering, leaks and streaks is applied on the undersurfaces.

The Vallejo Flat clear is then airbrushed to dull the scheme and seal the decals.

Next up to de mask the clear components and start on the final details.

More to follow

Really nice progress, Chuck @uscusn
The shading turned out very good.

Some weathering, streaks are applied to the undersurfaces, exhaust trails etc.

The masks are removed from the landing lamps and side port windows.

The lower front clear nose panels masks and rear gunners compartment. The masks come off easily, no residue.

Now to complete the landing gear with the fork type spindles sandwiching the resin wheels.

One side attached to the main strut. Let it set, the contact point seems a bit small but, turns out to be quite secure and sturdy.

The wheel is place on the spindle, fit is good, press fit and the other fork is attached and cemented in place. The wheels can spin so the weighted side will all ways lay flat on the surface. Doesn't it get annoying when you place a weighted wheel on a strut and somehow you glue a bit off and now the contact point is not quite perfect when placed on the surface. Not so this time.

Once both sides are completed, will let it sit for an hour before placing it on her feet.

Now to attach the gear bay doors.

The attachment points here are good enough to allow a good fit and not worry much about falling or knocking them off.

Next up tail wheel doors, gondola doors and the weapons bay and bomb.

More to follow.