Arco dei Fileni, Lybia 1941/42, 1:35 Scale, Schatchbuild

Started by Michel Verschuere · 37 · 2 years ago
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    Michel Verschuere said 5 years, 3 months ago:
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    Michel Verschuere said 5 years ago:

    Since there seem to be some site issues, meaning that @piet and myself lost some WIP threads, I decided to post here for the time being on the Arco dei Fileni scratch build.

    The link where this repo used to be is no longer working, I hope not all is lost:
    http://imodeler.com/groups/work-in-progress-armor/forum/topic/arco-dei-fileni-lybia-1941-42/

    The last few days, I tried to perfect the application of stenciling on wood, a technique I will need to add the inscriptions to the Arch in the front (over the archway itself) and inside, above the bas-reliefs. I tried several techniques but now optimized one using acrylic primer and an inktjet print on transparent slides material.

    The procedure goes as follows:

    1. Replicate the original inscription on a text editor (I used MS word)
    2. Export as a .pdf and make a test print to inspect the dpi quality
    3. Mirror the .pdf to a new .pdf because you'll need to print in mirror image to make the result readable. I used an online tool: https://www.img2go.com/rotate-image
    4. Make a final test print on paper and then on transparent plastic foil used for slides (mind the correct side of the transparencies)
    5. Add a thin layer of acrylic primer to the model, there where you want the stencil to be. It is important that the layer is thick enough so that there are no dry spots. The layer of primer should also be evenly distributed.
    6. Carefully place the stencil on foil top down on the layer of primer. There is no room for error here, so at best, the placement should be spot-on from the start. If you're doing everything right, you should be able to read the inscription normally through the foil! If you read the mirror image, you've done something wrong. The ink layer from the mirror print should now be in contact with the layer of primer.
    7. Apply pressure ro remove air bubbles from between the wooden surface and the plastic foil. I used the edge of a credit card for that. The entire inscription should now be embedded into the primer.
    8. Let dry 15 minutes and then carefully lift the foil. The inscription remains in the primer as it partially diffused into it. The contrast you'll get is never as good as the paper print but this is as good as it gets.

    I will add the inscriptions shown over the next days using this method, looking fwd for the results.

    I also painted, weathered and applied the main inscription on the arc.



    These letters were printed using my Prusa I3 3D printer. I panted them brown and then added a slight layer of copper. The blue-green bronze oxide was added using a dry brushing technique and based on pictures of oxidized statues:

    Check-out the close-up:


    Also of the scratch built doorway:

    I'm quite pleased with the result! What do you think?

    I'll keep you posted on further progress! Happy modeling!

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    Maarten said 5 years ago:

    Excellent bronze finish.

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    James B Robinson said 5 years ago:

    This is looking marvelous Michel. Well done!

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    Louis Gardner said 5 years ago:

    With each new addition this amazing scratch build comes to life in front of our very own eyes. Well done my friend ! Very well done indeed.

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    Erik Gjørup said 5 years ago:

    Spot on!

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    Rodney J. Williams said 5 years ago:

    I have no idea what you are doing, as I have never done anything like this. However it is "Out-of-sigh" as we say sometimes here in the U.S.A. The colors sure match up perfectly with the weathered bronze figure .

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    Greg Kittinger said 5 years ago:

    Cheering you on to the finish line! Looking fabulous!

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    Michel Verschuere said 4 years, 10 months ago:

    The last few weeks, I focused on the sculpting of both statues, in a final drive on the Arc. They are located above the Archway and represent the Fileni brothers. Since sculpting is not my daily job, I went to my local library and borrowed a book on artistic sculpting dating back from 1982, can you believe it!



    The skeleton was produced from 0.8 mm steel wire and reinforced with green stuff putty.

    After some trials, I decided that Staedtler FIMO would be the best material to continue with. Fimo can be found as a children's clay in most department stores. A form of PVC plastic² it does not smell, is easy to handle and actually quite flexible when you warm it in your hands. FIMO hardens after one hour in the oven at about 100° centigrade.



    Here is the result. The action came about in steps. I think both figures have been in the oven at least six times during the various stages. I started with a big lump that became the torso, then moved to the legs, arms, hands and finally the head. I am happy about the result. I do not want to offend, but my historical research showed the figures were naked so you can see some attributes...

    If it was facebook or instagram, I probably would get banned but I think I might get away with it on Imodeler actually... Who knows...

    Both figures were bronze so painting and weathering them like the letters on the arc is next. Hope you like it.

    Happy modelling!

    Michel.

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    Louis Gardner said 4 years, 10 months ago:

    Michel, @michel-verschuere
    Your skill set never ceases to amaze me ! This is something I would have never attempted on my own. All that hard work has really paid off.

    Well done !

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    Michel Verschuere said 4 years, 10 months ago:

    @lgardner Thanks for your kind comments.

    It is one of those things, if I would have been scared of sculpting, I would not have commenced this project because it was an integral part. This build now stretches almost 6 months and it took me to corners of this hobby I had not been before. Sculpting is one of them. The challenge is to overcome your fear and then I always refer to the quote of William Wordsworth: In order to begin, begin.

    I am pleased I discovered sculpting as part of this project. I knew where I wanted to end so that was a great help. In fact it turned out easier than I thought. After all, our brains get trained on the shape of a human body since childhood, so it is easy to tell a well proportioned figure from a bad one. FIMO clay is also as forgiving as it is cheap. If the head does not please you 100% sleep a night over it and then surgically remove it - or not - and start all over again. I threw away one figure I was not happy with, but learned from the errors made.

    Practice pays!

    Cheers my friend!

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    Michel Verschuere said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Here is a status update.

    In the last entry I was at the point where three main jobs still had to be completed on the Arc.

    1. Finishing and painting of the statues
    2. Adding the text on the inner Arc and the front and back portal
    3. Making the bas-reliefs that need to be placed inside the Arc

    Today, I can report on all three and also that the statues are now finished. In real life, they looked like this:




    In model, the build went like this:




    When the sculpting was finished, I applied a black primer, and then airbrushed mixed Revell enamels (brown with a touch of copper). I am quite happy about the result.

    I have now added them to the tower, not by gluing them but by 'pinning' them in place by a piece of wire. This is because I may give the Arc a finishing weathering still and then these ornaments are better removed.




    I came a long way on this one build, probably the longest in my entire modelling 'career' but then again, there were months where my time on the bench was very limited still.

    I also progressed on selecting the technique to add the text on the Arc. After some experimentation, I decided working with a clear decal, onto which the text was printed using an inkjet printer, was the best manner to do it. Took me trial and error five techniques over but this should work.

    As far as the bas-reliefs are concerned, there is progress there too. I managed to draw a 2D picture of the pattern based on a myriad of pictures (the original is destroyed) and now it comes to selecting the right base material. I am not 100% happy with the plaster blocks I molded. Seems to me like scratching the pattern in them will not be easy because the material is not so dense. I may remake the slabs in clay however. To be continued...


    I will keep you updated.

    @david-polak I hope the waiting was worth it!

    Happy modelling, Michel.

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    Michael E Rieth said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    That is what is great about this hobby and scratch building, what we don't know, we learn. It is not being afraid to try something new. If it didn't come out to your satisfaction, try again.

    I like the patina on the sculpture and the overall progress.

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    Michel Verschuere said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Thanks Michael @mrieth, yes we learn everyday when building models. Steepest curve is scratch but it's not exclusive. I learn with every OOB build as well.

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    Robert Royes said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Wow! This is an amazing project.!