George’s Motorcycles

Started by George Williams · 184 ≡ · ↻ 1 year ago
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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Already superb progress, my friend @chinesegeorge! Parts look nice and crisp. Your engine looks great!
    Though at times some extra effort (or, better, interpretation) is needed, I just love these "Japanese" looking instructions!

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    Rory Wilson said 2 years ago:

    Nice job George! It certainly looks to have nice detail. As a suggestion, have you thought of a black panel line wash after dry-brushing. I find it brings out the contrast nicely.

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    George Williams said 2 years ago:

    Thanks Rory @rory, John @johnb, and Spiros @fiveten. Thanks, Rory, I might try a black panel line wash after I’ve fitted it into the frame, I’m not sure just how much will be visible yet.

    Anyway, onto the frame and radiator assembly. Quite a few pieces but they all go together nicely, too nicely in fact.


    I wanted to fit them all together then paint them, I thought it would be easier that way. What I didn’t fully realize is that the frame is meant to be built around the engine………

    Luckily the cement hadn’t dried on one side of the frame and I was able to pull it apart leaving sufficient room to get the engine in. It’s held in place by four pins and it’s quite a tight fit.

    I had to Tom Cleaver’s @tcinla method of industrial strength rubber bands to hold it together while the cement dried overnight.

    The instructions colour call out is silver which I interpreted as gloss aluminium. Anyway we’ll see how it looks when it’s all nice and dry.

    Thanks for looking, and happy modelling.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Great progress, my friend @chinesegeorge! Looks like the rubber bands did the trick here. Indeed, what instructions call as "silver" might be aluminum (polished, anodized or so). Everything is looking amazing so far!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    Nice progress, George @chinesegeorge
    Rubber bands do always come in handy at modelling.

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    George Williams said 2 years ago:

    Thanks Spiros @fiveten, John @johnb, and Rory @rory. With the engine now mounted in the frame, and lots of it hidden, we turn to the wheels. First the rear brake disc needs the cooling holes drilling out, tedious work, but worth the effort.


    The slick tyres only have a slight seam so don’t need much scrubbing in. The wheels need a coat of white and a dab of silver on the valves, and the Michelin water slide transfers are fixed to the tyres.

    That wasn’t too difficult. Next time the rear swing arm, chain, and shock absorber assemblies get started on.

    Thanks for looking and happy modelling.

    P.S. we are in a Covid lockdown, so lots of modelling time.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Great progress so far, my friend @chinesegeorge! Drilling out the brake disk really pays off!
    Oh, my! Lockdowns again...

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    Nice progress indeed, George @chinesegeorge
    The brake disk definitely looks much better this way.
    Not again lockdowns 🙁 , let's hope this will end soon.

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    Rory Wilson said 2 years ago:

    Looking really good George! Yip, the drilled discs make such an improvement to the finished product. I saw something that Tamiya are starting to mould the discs with the holes in them now. What are we going to do with all the extra time if we don't have to drill the discs...LOL. Please no more lockdown! Keep safe George.

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    George Williams said 2 years ago:

    Hi Rory @rory, John @johnb, and Spiros @fiveten, having been on lockdown for six days I’ve made quite a bit of progress but haven’t been able to take too many pictures.


    First, the rear swing arm assembly, including the wheel, brake, shock absorber, and chain are all together and attached to the engine and frame.

    Fujimi differ from Tamiya in using push fit metal rods rather than screws. They seem to work OK but you have to get it right first time as there’s little opportunity to have a second attempt. At least you don’t get those overscale screw heads.

    The fuel tank is next, painted in Italian Red (the instructions say “Herman Red), and Light Gun Metal.

    And then the rear cowling and seat, using the same colours with the seat in black (that should please Rory). I couldn’t resist trying the water slide transfers, which seemed to work very well.

    This is how she looks so far, the fuel tank and rear cowling are not yet cemented in place.

    Next time it’s the exhaust and radiator plumbing. Thanks for looking and happy modelling.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Great progress, my friend @chinesegeorge! Those metal rods in place of the screws look great.

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    Rory Wilson said 2 years ago:

    Great progress George. and yes, you can have a seat any colour you like, as long as it is black... LOL. Now I sound like Henry Ford! I like the idea of the pins instead of the screws... much neater. The colour scheme looks great George...nice job as usual.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Guess my first Kawasaki KLE's pink (yes, pink...), or even my TDR's yellow seat would not qualify, my friends @rory and @chinesegeorge 🙂

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    At least you made some great progress during that lockdown, George @chinesegeorge
    I agree with Rory @rory, seats should be as dark as possible, let's say black.

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    George Williams said 2 years ago:

    Thanks again Spiros @fiveten, John @johnb, and Rory @rory. The exhaust is on, some more blue discolouration is called for I think, plus some black around the tail pipe, and the plumbing for the radiator is also connected, no leaks so far!

    Thanks for looking and happy modelling.

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