Curtiss Mohawk In RAF service

Started by Carl Smoot · 191 · 1 hour ago
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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper):

    Being a retired college history instructor, I love doing research on my models. The Hawk can be really frustrating because there were so many different versions, but it really looks like you really have a handle on these various types. I really think the slight difference in cowling sizes (if there is a difference), would be impossible to see on a scale model. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks for the feedback guys.

    This morning, I spent some time evaluating the cockpit of the Clear Prop kit, comparing it to reference photos and the extra detail parts I have for the kit. I want to get this all figured out before I start assembly and painting. This is part of my new approach to modeling, trying to get my ducks a little more in a row (without being overly fussy about it) before starting a task.

    I didn't have a lot of spare time today, but I did manage to get something else going on the build. I had planned on using the wheel wells from the Academy kit on the Clear Prop kit, but I thought I might try casting them first to see if that will work. That way I can avoid having to cut up a perfectly good model kit.

    First step was to figure out something to hold the silicone for the mold. My grown kids have some Lego blocks still hanging around in our stored stuff in the garage, so I went rooting around in there and grabbed a bunch of blocks to make the mold box.

    After pouring some silicone in the box, I let it outgas for a little while to reduce micro bubbles, then placed the wing into the silicone. I had to drizzle some extra silicone into the box to get it to fill high enough. IN the process, there was some overflow onto the part. But this can be trimmed away when I remove the part from the mold.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Great idea. Carl (@clipper). How did you seal up the area between the wing and the legos? I would have silicone all over the workbench if I had tried to do this. Looking forward to seeing the results.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    George (@gblair), I put a shorter lego block in there (under the wings) to take up some of the space, then wrapped masking tape in place to seal up most of the remaining gap. You can see the tape in the second photo.

    The silicone doesn't go to the top of the box, only to the top of the tape. There's a little bit of leakage, but I have a plastic lid under the mold and it's okay so far. I have to wait until tomorrow to see how it works out. The silicone is very slow curing.

    This kit is going to be a nice change of pace from what I've been working on this past year. All the surface detail is there and looks great. No rescribing required (other than fixing around seam work). I have the Quinta set for the cockpit and a resin seat. The kit itself has excellent detail .

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Great job on the casting, Carl (@clipper). I have used Legos to make a casting box, but I didn't have anything that stuck out beyond the edges of the box. I wouldn't have thought masking tape would have worked for this. Good job!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Excellent idea, my friend @clipper!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    That's a great idea, Carl @clipper
    Not sure if my daughter would like the idea of me using her lego to do something similar 🙂

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I suppose I should consider getting (or making) a pressure pot for casting. Despite letting the silicone set for as long as I dared before sticking the wing in it, there were still numerous micro bubbles in the silicone, which showed up in the final mold and in the casting. Not an insurmountable problem, just annoying. My experience with casting is quite limited, and although I know the basics, I haven't had much in the way of practice.

    The pot life on this casting resin is extremely short, less than 3 minutes. I barely got it in the mold before it started setting up.

    Still, the wing casting came out okay. The parts that I needed are 99% complete, with the aforementioned micro bubbles, and one small air bubble resulting in a small nobbin on one wheel well. There is tape in the casting which was used to keep the resin from sticking to the Lego blocks, but this is in an areas that will be discarded. Since I plane to detail the well somewhat, none of this will prevent me from using the casting.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    The tiny bubbles are annoying, Carl (@clipper), but I think the piece came out great. I am sure you have fixed worse on a regular plastic model. You will be doing some filling and sanding to bring this part together with the kit parts, anyway. Looking forward to your next move.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Came out great, my friend @clipper! Some filling and sanding will do.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    To me the casting came out great, Carl @clipper
    Especially considering you did this without using a pressure pot.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    The fuselage has some vents behind the cowling on the upper sides. This is a series of openings with the sheet metal pushed out on three sides of the opening, forming a series of vents open in one direction. On the MOhawk, they are actually three in one direction and several ( 6 maybe) in the opposite direction. I think they call these louvered vents?

    I was going to try and use the Academy kit's vents but they are no good. I am thinking of trying to cut a series of small slots in styrene sheet using my vinyl cutter, but I am not confident in its ability to make cuts that small. Then I would form the louvers using something hard like a toothpick. I am pretty much limited in what I can do without a 3D printer. Even that I think would struggle at this size. Another option is to form it out of aluminum from a soda can, but cutting the slots is difficult at that small size. We're talking 1mm in width and about 2 or 3mm in length with at least 8 slots cut neatly in a row.So we'll see what I can come up with.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    While walking the dog today, I was thinking of how I might do these louvers. I had a few ideas, mostly involving complicated jigs to get the spacing correct and trying to punch out the louvers. However, I realized when I got back that these ideas were the wrong way to do this. To verify this, I spent some time looking at how to make louvered vents in sheet metal. Some of these were overly complex, but I found one video where a fellow made them for RC aircraft using card stock. These were quite a bit bigger than what I was planning on, but the technique looked doable.

    Basically you layout lines, spacing them the distance apart you want the vents to be, drill holes at the end of the lines, cut the lines, then lift them up and form them into the louvers. At the size he was doing, this was fairly easy. But my louvers are 1.5mm high and the entire set is only 8.5mm long, meaning that I had to space them at .5mm to get the number of vents the same as the real aircraft (13). This includes some spacing between the front and back ends.

    So I tried this using .015" plastic sheet and it didn't work out. The .5mm lines were simply too close together and the material too thick. When I tried lifting up one edge, the plastic broke very easily and even when it didn't it looked terrible. Here is the first attempt layout. Those lines are .5mm apart (roughly - pretty hard to see that small)

    So I tried using thinner material, .005" plastic with the same spacing, but they were still too close together. Bowing to reality, I decided to reduce the number of vents by increasing the spacing to 1mm. Still using the .005" plastic I laid out the lines and using an old air brush needle, poked holes at the ends of each line. Then using a new knife, cut the 1.5mm long lines between the holes.

    I then was able to get the needle under the plastic and form the louvers. These turned out better, but still fairly rough. And at least in the picture, still too thick. However, I was encouraged that the idea seemed doable.

    My next attempt will be using a different material. I am going to use paper from my printer. After forming the louvers, I am going to apply thin CA glue to the backsides to stiffen up the paper. We'll see how that turns out tomorrow as I need to give my eyes a rest tonight.

    THe ultimate plan is to glue this to the surface of the plastic piece in the second photo and then blend it in with putty. I may cut a hole in the part behind the louvers.

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    Tom Cleaver said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Here's some photos of my take on the airplane you're doing, using info from Cutting Edge decals

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I have always wondered how to do louvers, Carl (@clipper), but never thought of a good way to do it. Have you seen Tamiya plastic paper? I am not sure if it is amazingly thin plastic sheet, or plastic coated paper. It feels like paper and cuts easily with scissors. And you can use glue on it just like plastic. You have to be careful because it is so thin and too much glue would dissolve it. I wonder if it might work better to form the louvers?

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.