Curtiss Mohawk In RAF service

Started by Carl Smoot · 48 · 1 day ago
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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 days, 7 hours ago:

    Very interesting way to represent those louvers, my friend @clipper! Looking forward to their final looks!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 days, 3 hours ago:

    Quite a challenge to get those extra details done, Carl @clipper
    The use of paper and use CA to stiffen it sounds like a good idea, maybe using slightly thicker photo paper might do it as well.

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    Carl Smoot said 3 days, 1 hour ago:

    Thanks for the responses Tom (@tcinla), George (@gblair), Spiros (@fiveten), and John (@johnb).

    Tom, that looks like the Special Hobby kit in 1/32. I think I read an article you wrote on this somewhere. Looks wonderful. Yes, that is the one I plan on doing.

    George, I remember you mentioning this material to me before. I went looking for it this morning. It is available but only at a fairly stiff price. It is apparently not generally available in the US, so has to be imported. Shipping is the main problem. I do like the fact that it is even thinner than the .005 inch styrene sheet I have.

    I did find a few recommendations from modelers for the use of CA stiffened paper and I used this approach on something I did either earlier this year or last year. Can't remember what it was. But it is stiff enough to use in modeling as long as you are careful with it. If this approach works, I will delay adding it to the model until after after I have performed the other seam work and major assembly.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 days, 19 hours ago:

    Another update.

    The paper approach is not going to work, a victim of the closeness of the slots leaving such a small amount of paper that they are extremely fragile and tear very easily while trying to form them.

    I thought I would try the .005 inch plastic again.I did better on cutting the slots and drilling the relief holes at the ends of the slots. But the styrene is pretty soft and we all know that when cuts are made in this stuff, that a ridge develops along the cut line.

    So after cutting the slots, I sanded both sides of the sheet in the slots area and then went back in with the knife to clean out the excess. This was partially successful, but still left somewhat ragged edges and some small bits of plastic that could not be removed without further damaging the plastic.

    I tried this several times, and each time tried using some different liquid cements to smooth it out. But in every case, the edges were still somewhat ragged and the plastic, being so thin, was adversely affected by the cement, leaving it with a rough texture.

    I think what is really needed is someway to punch out these slots. Since they are about .3mm wide, you can imagine that it would be possible to punch through the plastic, if I had a tool to do so. Unfortunately, I do not. I believe the plastic is going to be rough no matter what method I use to cut these slots.

    I am wondering if I can find some photoetch brass with closely spaced slots of the right length. This would have clean slots and the metal would stand up to the forming better. I could go through the expense of designing and having it produced, or I could try to do it myself, but it seems like a lot of work to get this done and again, the expense of acquiring the chemicals and other materials.

    For the moment, I am going to have to ponder this and do some more research to see if an alternative approach presents itself.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 days, 19 hours ago:

    I just went over to Ebay, Carl (@clipper), and searched for "1/48 louvers". I found a fairly large variety of louvers from a variety of materials. There are some of the Archer transfers, which are solid press-ons, but there were several types of louvers designed for O-Scale railroad engines that might work. They are in several different configurations, they are plastic, and they are open. Might be worth a try.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 days, 18 hours ago:

    Thanks for the tip George (@gblair). I tried that out and also variations on the search terms. I also looked at train details and related. The main problem I saw with all of these was a complete lack of dimensions for the individual louvers. However, they do look promising. I read somewhere that the Archer transfers are extremely fragile and have to be individually placed (yikes). I'll keep looking.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 days, 16 hours ago:

    Good luck finding something, Carl (@clipper). I know how frustrating that can be. I just took a quick look around some of the sites I use to get 3D files to print and didn't find anything. Sorry.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 days, 6 hours ago:

    Still, your effort in achieving your desired result is really noteworthy, my friend @clipper! I am sure you'll find a way to efficiently represent those louvers.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 days, 4 hours ago:

    To me you did an amazing job in creating those louvers, Carl @clipper

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    Tom Cleaver said 2 days, 3 hours ago:

    @clipper - yes, that is the Special Hobby kit - did a review of it at M2.

    https://modelingmadness.com/review/allies/cleaver/tmc32mo.htm

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    Carl Smoot said 1 day, 21 hours ago:

    Thanks for the feedback guys. I decided to bite the bullet and purchased a kit to do some photoetching of the louvers. We'll see how it works out. Thankfully, the PE kit can be used for other builds down the road. I will probably delay working on the louvers until I can see if there are any other PE designs I might want to do at the same time (to save on chemicals and materials).

    In the meantime, I have started assembling the cockpit prior to the first rounds of paint. No photos yet. The Clear Prop kit really is nicely detailed and a very good representation of the kit could be made just building from the box. Probably the weakest part is the seat which is pretty plain. I had already decided to use the Quinta set for the cockpit, so some preliminary scraping away of detail was accomplished before I started assembly. I also have a resin seat replacement which is much nicer.

    Another area I need to explore is what I am going to do about the landing gear. Since the kit is a fixed gear aircraft, there are no struts. I am not sure how strong resin copies of the Academy struts would be (or if they are even good enough to use for that) or if I have to make them from brass tubing. I also need to find some wheels.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 day, 20 hours ago:

    I am really interesting in seeing how you make PE using your new kit, Carl (@clipper). Another tool in your bag of tricks. Where did you get the PE kit?

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    Carl Smoot said 1 day, 20 hours ago:

    I bought the MicroMark kit, George (@gblair). There may be better choices out there, but this seems pretty complete. This YouTube video probably had more to do with my selection. BUt it looks like a fairly complete tutorial.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 day, 18 hours ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper):
    I have looked at the set from MicroMark several times, but I wasn't sure how fussy the process would be, so I have held off buying the kit. You are the pathfinder for this process so I can see if i want to try it. Photos of the process, please. :o)

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 day, 16 hours ago:

    Hope the MicroMark kit delivers, my friend @clipper! Looks promising!