Curtiss Mohawk In RAF service

Started by Carl Smoot · 120 · 2 weeks ago
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    George R Blair Jr said 2 weeks, 4 days ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): My design skills are very primitive, partly due to the free, very simple software that I am using. You can design complex stuff using Tinkercad, but it is really difficult. Getting a more comprehensive software and learning to design more detailed stuff is on the list to do in the new year. The learning curve for the advanced software is fairly steep. The 3D printer is much simpler to learn to use. My birthday is coming up in February, so we both have something to look forward to.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 weeks, 4 days ago:

    Thanks JOhn (@johnb). A trick I learned years ago is to make something with a handle, then when ready or nearly ready, snip off the handle.

    IN this case, I had some .0030 inch styrene strips about 8mm wide, so I cut off a piece large enough for me to hold on to using my fingers. I had previously measured the distance inside the fuselage where this would go using a digital caliper and it was approximately 5 mm. So I drew two parallel lines 6mm apart on the plastic as the initial size (to allow a bit of extra in case my measuring was off). IN the center of that piece, on one of the long edges, I used a half round micro file and filed a half elliptical shape. This formed the inside of the curved part. Then I sketched out the rest of the part using a pencil.

    I drilled four holes to represent lightening holes in the arc. Then I roughly snipped off the remainder of the excess plastic around the opposite side of the arc, leaving some plastic on one end to continue to hold the part. I carefully sanded the arc to shape using a 400 grit sanding stick. Finally, I snipped off the handle and held the part with tweezers while I finished sanding the part where I just snipped it.

    A really wordy way of saying, "I did it very carefully" ! 🙂

    The bottom line, is file the arc and drill the holes first, then snip off the excess close to the drawn line (leaving a small handle), sand to shape, then snip off the handle and finish sanding.

    You have to do a bit of trimming to get the final width of the part.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 weeks, 3 days ago:

    One of the other challenges I face with this particular project is how to reproduce the 20 pound fragmentation bombs carried under the wings by the RAF Mohawks operating out of Burma.

    I only have one photo of the bombs on the wing and it's not real clear. But in the photo, you can make out a few details. For example, you can see that they have the characteristic circular RAF bomb fins, although they are abbreviated in length. You can also make out what looks like a fairly blunt nose.

    I've looked high and low for aftermarket versions of these but no luck. It's possible there are 3D printed versions available, but I do not have a 3D printer yet and won't have for some time. I have already resolved that I will need to scratch build these, by making a single example, and then making resin copies.

    This morning, I was watching a review of the Airfix 1/72 Handley Page Hampden and noticed that the kit includes bombs which looked similar to what I could make out in the photo. I happen to have one of these kits , so I took out one of the bombs to see if it might be usable.

    IN my research, I came across a document containing details of most of the RAF bombs used in WWII. The closest I could find to the ones in the photo is the one in drawing in this picture. I also found a color photograph of what appears to be the same bomb as the drawing.

    So here are a few observations. First off, the bombs under the wings in the Mohawk picture have a shorter length circular bomb fin. The angle of the back part of the bomb on the wing also looks somewhat sharper than the photo of the bomb or the drawing. However, the interesting part is that the bomb photo and drawing are very similar to the Hampden kit bomb. Since the kit is 1/72 scale, the bomb is correspondingly smaller than it would be in 1/48 scale (the scale of my Mohawk). I laid these out in the photos for comparison.

    You'll notice however, that the bomb part laying on the wing is far too long for the area of the wing it is supposed to be attached to. The Mohawk photo shows this relationship well enough.

    So the first thing I am wondering, is how can I determine the approximate diameter of the bomb from the Mohawk photo. I've tried comparing it to other items in the photo, with the prop spinner looking bigger and the landing gear leg looking to be smaller. Assuming it is somewhere in between, then this bomb part might still be too big in diameter. But if it is not, then it might be possible to shorten the kit part at the circular fin, the nose, and a section from the middle.

    Any thoughts from anyone else on this?

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 weeks, 3 days ago:

    Excellent research, Carl @clipper
    Even with those pictures it is difficult to find the exact diameter, nevertheless, I think your assumption is very close to reality. To me the bomb looks fine for this build after shorten it a bit.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 weeks, 3 days ago:

    Those Hampden bombs look very promising, my friend @clipper. To determine the diameter, I agree, you should compare it with diameters of adjacent bits.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 weeks, 3 days ago:

    Of course to compare it with adjacent bits, it helps to have those adjacent bits in the kit to use as a reference. IN this case, I have neither the landing gear or this type of prop spinner! 🙂 But the idea of comparing to other areas is sound. There is of course another way to reduce the diameter of the bomb. That is to cross quarter it lengthwise, then re-glue together. The material removed by the saw blade will cause the overall diameter to shrink. But in this case, to avoid a super tedious case of burn out, you do it once on the master and then cast duplicates.

    It also just occurred to me that the second Mohawk picture, with the bomb shackles can help in determining the diameter.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 weeks, 3 days ago:

    I started on the wing conversion today as well. I started by cutting one of the wheel wells from the resin casting I made and then thinning the backside down until the circular opening became open all the way through. I will be adding more details in this area later.

    Then I squared up the sides of the resin plug and started comparing it to the kit wing. On the kit wing, there is a raised doubler panel that is right next to the opening for the wheel. In order to avoid damaging this kit detail, I needed to shave down the left side of the resin plug almost to the point of breaking into the circular opening. That was probably the trickiest bit.

    Then using the plug again, I outlined the shape of the plug on the wing, using centerlines as a guide. This shape was then cut from the wing using a razor saw. Once removed, I smoothed the cut edges and then tweaked the opening until the plug fit where I wanted it. I needed to make sure the leading edge of the plug matched up to the leading edge of the kit wing.

    Here it is taped into position. What still needs to be done now is to thin the backside of the plug some more, in the forward section to deepen the forward rectangular area and to remove enough of the resin to allow the upper wing piece to fit. One thing to notice here is that the Hawk 75 fixed gear wing does not have the characteristic bumps that the retractable wing has on the leading edge by the gear well. Once I get the upper wing to fit, I will need to clean up the cast bump and add a bit on the top surface where it was not duplicated in the casting process.

    So far, going well.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 weeks, 2 days ago:

    Wow! Wonderful job on the wing conversion, my friend @clipper!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 weeks, 2 days ago:

    Great surgery , Carl @clipper

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    Carl Smoot said 2 weeks, 2 days ago:

    Thanks Sprios (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). One of the cool things about getting more experienced at building is the new possibilities that open up to you. I can remember as a young boy wanting to convert a Stuka dive bomber to a version with snow skis and and having absolutely no idea how to accomplish it. It never did happen. Although it doesn't hold the same attraction today as it did back then, I would have some pretty good ideas on how to go about tackling that sort of conversion.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 weeks, 2 days ago:

    Would love to see the conversion of a Stuka with skis, Carl @clipper
    Still a challenge but with current possibilities definitely possible.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 weeks, 2 days ago:

    However, for me at least, the Stuka doesn't do much for me. I always thought it was a rather ugly bird. I don't even have a kit of one anyway. But the point is that if I wanted to, I could probably do that conversion.

    Now a project that I am somewhat interested in is the conversion of a Lockheed Vega into the Lockheed Orion (with floats). I have the old AMT Lockheed Vega kit that has been superseded by the Dora Wings kit, so it's fair game for some conversion work. Maybe someday. Hmmmm. [ gears are turnin' in my head]

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 weeks, 2 days ago:

    I am amazed at how well that came out, Carl (@clipper). By the time you get done you won't know that the kit didn't come this way. Conversions are like potato chips, once you do one, it leads to another, and another...

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    Carl Smoot said 2 weeks, 1 day ago:

    Conversions can be fun George (@gblair), as well as upgrades to old models , and superdetailing existing models. However, they all have one common thread, in that they make it take longer to get the model finished. Not that this is necessarily a bad thing. As I said, I enjoy all of these. But something I have also been considering lately is to take an old Airfix kit (or other manufacturer) and simply focus on the exterior finish. Build the model the way it was intended and then put all your effort into the painting and decaling and weathering. Another type of model to add to the bag of tricks I suppose.

    I have so many projects I want to do. I think it's why I end up working on multiple projects at the same time.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 weeks, 1 day ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): I have built several models lately that took a lot longer than I anticipated. They all start out fun, but at some point I just want to get it done. I have a bunch of the old original Airfix kits on the shelf that are on my "someday" list. I remember back in the 70s and 80s reading British model magazines where someone would take an old Airfix and bring it up to contest standards. By the time they were done, there wouldn't be anything left of the original kit except the left wheel and the drop tanks. Just kidding, but I often wondered if I could make that commitment in time and effort to get the result. As I move past being old and move into really old, I seem to take the time required to achieve the result into account a lot more than I used to. Having said that, one of the old Airfix kits is getting perilously close to my workbench.