1/48 Hasegawa A6M5 Type 52 Otsu

Started by Woody Kubacki · 21 · 7 months ago
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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Back again with another Zero build. This is Zero number 5 in a row and will be the last one for a while as I switch gears and build some IJA planes. I started this build without a specific aircraft in mind, but midway through I found some photos online that really interested me and so I will be building my model to reflect them. I will be keeping the markings under wraps for now as I promised to share the final photos with a blog first.

    As is typical with my Hasegawa Zero builds, I hollowed out the upper decking handholds, added a rod to the port side , , thinned the cockpit walls and the oil cooler intake.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    The wing tank vents were filled with black CA, and then the wing was glued together. Cockpit was assembled and painted (AK RC Nakajima interior green), and finished with Eduard belts.

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    The wing to fuselage by the engine was a poor fit so I filled with black CA and sanded it down. Since this was my first type 52, I also decided to hollow out the exhaust pipes a bit, with a combination of drill bits and knives.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Next up I added ignition wires to the engine and painted it up. I dont bother with the misaligned rocker covers as they can't be seen inside the cowling. Then I painted the propeller, fist Mr Color C8 Solver for the chipping base, then hairspray, then a mixture of paints for the propeller colour, then the yellow warning stripes and manufacturer decal using a mask I designed which allows you to get the spacing just right). Then I painted the cowling with C8 and cowling colour (MR Color) and masked off and painted the machine gun alignment markings.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    After a few loops of primer/sand/primer, the fuselage was ready for paint. I started off with Mr Color Surfacer in Mahogany colour and applied various contrasting paints using my stencils. I decided to use my AK paints and 1. I had them and 2. I want to keep my MRP paints for my better model kits (I have to order MRP from Poland, nothing is available in Canada). Since this is a Nakajima Zero, I used AK RC 304 D1. As it turns out, this paint is not as dark as even MRP D2 paint (which is the lighter of the D1/D1 Nakajima/Mitsubishi black greens). I chose to live with it, and use up that paint while I had it. I might use it as a D2 paint instead, and leave my AK RC 305 D2 as a highly weathered version.

    I then painted on C8 and a homebrew mixture of red primer and topped it off with hairspray and then the (supposed) deep black green). The undersides were painted with a 9:1 ratio of AK RC 303 (J3 SP/Amber grey or Olive Grey) to off white, highly diluted and painted on in thin coats. It actually took me 2 sessions to get enough paint on the model so that it didn't look like it had the pox.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    The plane I am modelling appears to be somewhat old and based in Japan. With that in mind, I wanted to chip the plane and weather it, but not to the extremes that some Zeros looked like (usually abandoned). While going through my photos, I found a few that shoed that the ground crew routinely walked in the no walk area (over the flaps), so much so that they wore through the paint. I found that quite interesting because you always hear about the fragility of the Zero. I decided to mimic this and after a couple of failed attempts, I got what I wanted, with bare metal and primer showing through.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Up next were the hinomaru. With the introduction of the type 52, Nakajima moved in the upper wing hinomaru slightly and used a 30mm white band, as compared to Mitsubishi's 75mm band. I cut my mask out of Oramask 813 (blue) as it is more stable and rigid compared to 810, especially with such a narrow ring. 813 doesn't work well over compind curves, but for the wing this is not an issue.

    First, I laid the outer mask on and then sprayed the perimeter an off white. Then I added the ring mask and sprayed the red. The white rings were usually overpainted with dark green, so I masked the red, pulled out the thin ring and sprayed hairspray and dark green. My masking method wasn't great, and resulted in imperfect circles, which I covered up with a bit more shipping of the dark green than I would have liked.

    I followed the same procedure with the fuselage hinomaru and they turned out ok.

    12 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Finally the yellow IFF bands were masked and painted (C8, HS, MRP 419).

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    For the stencil decals I used Eduard stencils and the Hasegawa M/N stencil. I was reminded that AK RC paints don't play well with decal softeners, in fact they can be removed if you touch the paint after adding the softener.

    This now brings us to where the model stands as of yesterday. I started weathering yesterday and the process has gone quite well. I have used my similar method employed on the type 22 ko, where I made it dusty/dirty, like a car left out in the weather, but no so much to make it look abandoned. The photos are WIP, I only use the splatter as a first step, and then I blend it in with a brush.

    Progress has been somewhat slow so far, but I hope to finish this and another plane in time for a local model show on September 9.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Terrific work Woody. Just how long did you needed to get to the weathering stage?

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    John vd Biggelaar said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    This is really amazing, Woody @wkubacki
    All the extras and especially the weathering is a work of art. Looks superb.
    Did you create the black CA yourself or can it be bought in black.

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    @holzhamer I think I started a few months ago at least, but it was being built as a time filler when I had down time during the Tamiya A6M5 and Hasegawa A6M3 builds.

    @johnb It’s a type of rubberized CA glue that has some give and isn’t as hard as your typical CA glue.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 8 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Super entry and fantastic result so far, my friend @wkubacki!

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    Woody Kubacki said 8 months, 1 week ago:

    I think this is as far as I want to go, before I really go too far. I’ve used this photo of a captured Zero as my inspiration. I’m sure not all Zeros looked like this, but with the lack of photos, I wonder if many did. Well, anyways, I’ll let the oils dry and start on the exhaust tomorrow

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 8 months, 1 week ago:

    The weathering looks perfect, Woody @wkubacki