1/48 Hasegawa Ki-44-II Ko Wakamatsu's Bird

  • 18 posts
  • Last reply 3 days, 5 hours ago
Viewing 1 - 15 of 18 posts
  • Woody Kubacki said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    HI everyone, I'm back with another Ki-44 build (my third), this time a Ki-44 II ko (my second), and specifically a plane flown by famous ace Captain Yukitoshi Wakamatsu of the 85th Sentai based in china. I'll leave the reveal of the actual markings till the end, I'm trying to build suspense here. haha.

    Like my previous builds of the Hasegawa Ki-44, I left the cockpit detailing to a minimum, save for drilling out the seat, the rear bulkhead and adding some Eduard belts. I painted the cockpit in AK RC329 Hairanshoku (grey indigo), as this was an early plane built in early 1943 (I presume), although once could paint it in Nakajima's interior green. The floor and seat were chipped and a wash of various enamels and oils were used to make it look worn.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Woody Kubacki said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    Next I detailed the engine with some lead wire, nothing fancy, just something to add a bit more interest to it. Then I drilled out the huck starter attachment on the spinner and thinned out the rear gear doors as well as the small gear doors for the main gear. Additionally I thinned out the front cockpit coaming and drilled out the hand holds.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Woody Kubacki said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    I proceeded to paint the spinner and propeller (Mr Color C131), and did some minor chipping to it as these planes were based on some rough airfields in China. Then cam the fiddly part, gluing the wings and fuselage together. I had a decent gap at the wingroots, so I had to add a spreader bar to reduce the gap. Of course when I glued the wings and fuselage together I remembered that I didn't actually glue the spreader bar in, and it eventually fell out, but not until the wingroots were glued together. As a bonus, I was able to retrieve the piece of sprue acting as the spreader bar so it wouldn't drive me crazy rattling around inside the plane. Then came the successive rounds of filling and sanding until all seams were smooth and no ghost seams reappeared.

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Woody Kubacki said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    This finally brings us to yesterday. I painted the control surfaces grey green hairyokushoku AK RC328. I wanted to attempt a weathered bare metal finish technique, where one marbles with metallic paints and then sprays the blend coat overtop, similar to my usual black base technique. Well suffice it to say that my blend coat was a little too dray and there was too much flirm (dust) in the paint so I sanded it all back with a 3000 grit 3M sponge and just sprayed the final coat directly. The results were much better but the weathering was all but lost. As you can see, the shine of the paint is quite bright, but I intend on using some oils or perhaps some post shading to weather it a bit.

    The paint I used was the newly released Mr Color Super Metallic (SM) super Duralumin SM208. It was my first time using this shade and I like it quite a lot. I thinned it 2:1 with MLT and MRT (so maybe that's just like the regular thinner?) as I didnt want the paint to dry too quickly (hence adding the MLT), although the recommended thinner is MRT (Rapid thinner).

    I still have a few panels to pick out with a darker shade metallic, namely by the exhausts and the fuel tank covers on the underside. Then I'll start designing the masks for my Cameo cutter and start painting the hinomaru and markings.

    Finally, I added some lead wire to the landing gear and primed and painted it with Tamiya Lacquer Flat Aluminum.

    Hopefully with the paint on, my pace will speed up, especially since I would like to bring this to a model show on September 11th.

    13 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Bill Koppos said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    Yeah that is a nice looking metallic. My search for good ones is constant, will try this one.

  • Woody Kubacki said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    @billkoppos I find the Super Metallic series has very fine pigments and is very resilient to masking. My ki-61 build in this group used the SM206, but I think I many now prefer 208.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week, 4 days ago:

    Entry, progress and rest so far, all are excellent, my friend @wkubacki! Looking forward to your progress!

  • John vd Biggelaar said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    Amazing entry and ditto results, Woody @wkubacki

  • Erik Gjørup said 1 week, 3 days ago:

    Splendid attention to detail with all the thinning and stuff. Strapped in.

  • Woody Kubacki said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    I’m hoping updates will be coming more frequently now that the paint is on. Tonight is cut my masks at sprayed the hinomaru, tail markings, Leading edge bands, and the retractable steps. I usually have a hard time getting the red and yellow to be opaque, especially over a metallic, so what I usually do is spray a white or light grey first and then the top colour. What I find happens is that the white really lightens up the top colour, making me add more paint and then I get significant buildup of paint when I remove the masks which I have to sand down. Now, knowing that Mr Color has a pink Surfacer intended for red paint jobs, I tinted Mr Surfacer with red and yellow . It seemed ti work well, especially with the primer and top coat thinned about 75-80% with MRT (and shooting at 10 psi). I still have som ridges to sand down, but they are not as noticeable as before.

    I have a few touchups, but not with tonight’s painting. Instead I have some dust/flirm in the metallic paint which I will have to sand out and then primer and paint, but I’ll leave that to the end to let the touchups accumulate so I do them all at once.

    Next up is the anti glare panel and a red fuselage band, and then working the the last bits like canopy, landing gear and exhaust stubs. I’m sitting and looking at the plane now and I’m digging the contrast between the alum and the red, especially the unique tail markings of this plane.

    21 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Spiros Pendedekas said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    Absolutely fantastic painting results, my friend @wkubacki!
    Your painting techniques are, as usual, excellent.
    Looking forward to your progress!

  • John vd Biggelaar said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    Amazing paintwork, Woody @wkubacki
    Thanks for sharing your approach.

  • Ronnie Olsthoorn said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    Great to see you're working on another Tojo, one of my favourite J-birds 🙂
    The silver finish is super smooth. Markings look excellent. Another top job in the making.

  • Woody Kubacki said 1 week, 1 day ago:

    Thanks everyone for the kind words. I know I haven't been here much lately, but I wanted to have a bunch of progress to post up instead of posting in dribs and drabs. After this plan I will bore everyone with Raiden #3, it only took a year!

  • Louis Gardner said 6 days, 20 hours ago:

    Woody, @wkubacki
    This is a pleasant surprise, and by the looks of things you are well on your way with this one. It is also up to you usual standard of nothing less than perfection. Thank you for starting another model for our "Empire of Japan" group. I too have not been very active on Imodeler lately, but this should change now.

    A few years ago, I built a 1/32 scale Hasegawa Shoki, and I went with the "Grey Indigo" color too, although right now I don't remember exactly what color I used to represent it. The Ki-61 is my favorite Japanese fighter, but the Ki-44 is a very close second !

    So you know I definitely will be watching for updates on this build.

    Thanks again for the continued support of our ever growing EoJ group build.

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