1/48 Tamiya A6M3 Model 32

Started by Woody Kubacki · 7 ≡ · ↻ 3 years ago
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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    So, after completed my Ki-43 I bought the old tool Tamiya A6M3, A6M5, and J2M3 to practice on. These models are cheap ($20 CDN) and as it turns out, fit very well considering their age so I wouldn't be spending too much time on filling gaps and sanding parts to make them fit.

    Assembly was fairly straightforward. I made a few enhancements like detailing the engine, thinning the cowl flaps, drilling out the scissors on the landing gear and drilling the landing gear door attachment points

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    I also added some wiring to the gear bays. I had to raise the wings up at the wing roots to remove a step, although it did require some sanding in the end. I also sanded off the raised panel lines and re-scribed with a small Tamiya saw then smoothed over with TET. Then the plane was spayed with Tamiya rattle can primer (a little too thick).

    9 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Next step was to paint the exterior. I started off again with preshading the panel lines and spraying AK RC 303 J3 SP (Amber Grey) and AK RC302 IJN grey green for the control surfaces. I masked and painted the "no walk" lines with Tamiya XF-7, the cowl with Mr Color C125 and the propeller with AK Xtreme Metal Aluminum (iirc). I did forget to paint the rear of the propeller blades with cowl blue-black... lesson learned.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Decals were then applied. The Hinomaru were exceptionally thick, but settled mostly down with liberal application of Tamiya Mark Fit Strong. A clear coat was applied and then some Tamiya panel liner.

    I was really impressed with the kit, but not so much with the preshading technique. It shows up too much and could have used another light top coat to tone it down. I later learned that the AK RC303 J3 SP is a little too dark and needs about 10% white added to it.

    9 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    This is a nice 32 Zero, Woody @wkubacki!
    I loved your engine and gearbay superdetailing, as well as your painted walk lines, among others!

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Thanks Spiros, a little detail goes a long way it seems.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Woody, @wkubacki
    Welcome to Imodeler ! You have done a very nice job with building (and posting) these Japanese planes. I do hope that you continue on with the building, and will have more of these to post for us to see. Like Spiros mentioned, I too like all of the small paining details you incorporated here.

    I started gluing the upper wing section in place along the wing root joint first when it's possible. Then I will come back and add the lower section of the wing on next. It seems to get a better fit against the fuselage that way, and you lose less detail since it almost entirely takes away the gaps that are often encountered here.

    It is much easier to sand the leading edge of the wing, and you are less likely to lose as much detail. This technique can not be used for every build, but I have found it to work out better for me, so I use this "building" style as often as I can...

    Thank you for posting these incredible Japanese planes for us all to enjoy.

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