@lgardner @fiveten Unfortunately I can't take credit for this idea, I saw another modeller do it first. A few lessons I have learned:

1. For the remaining J2M kits (1/48 and 1/32 ) that I have, I will need to merge the kit with with plans, and adjust the rivet lines accordingly. There are some differences between the two that need to be accounted for. I have actually started on that.

2. My rivet lines don't meet up at the leading edges (I haven't riveted the LE but you can see an offset in the lines) because I did the upper side with the older technique and lower side with the masks. When I create new masks I will ensure they meet up properly.

3. I used Oramask 810 (grey) for the underside masks and they did not work out so well, due mostly to how 810 is a bit more malleable. 813 (blue) would be the better way to go as it is stiffer.

4. The more sections of panel line masks (especially when they are thin) the more that error builds up and you get wobbly lines or unparallel lines at the end of a section. I think next time I will make multiple templates and they will be thicker so there is less error applying 5 thicker masks than 10 thinner ones (this is my surveying background showing through here).

5. I may sell these masks once i have completed them, but they would have to come with the caveat that they are an approximation between the kit and the plans.

Back with some progress, finally. All of the riveting has been completed, final seams corrected and rescribed. I created a template using the Cameo and Oramask 810 to rivet the zigzag pattern on the cowl.

6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

Then I primed the entire model with Mr Surfacer 1500 black and added some detail to the oil cooler housing. From what I can tell from photos, the inside of the housing was left natural metal, so I sprayed it with Tamiya LP-38 Flat aluminum, but of course i forgot to weather the inside before gluing it on. Next I sprayed the areas to be chipped with Mr Color C8 thinned about 75% with Mr Color Rapid Thinner (MRT). I wanted to use some paint that was more durable and readily available than the Mr Color Super Metallics (SM Series), as well as try out C8 for chipping.

6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

Now onto the undersides. I gathered my templates (Uschi along with my newer Mad Works ones) and paints and proceeded to lay down the marble coat. Since the undersides didn't get worn/weathered at nearly the rate of the upper sides, I was aiming for a subtle effect. I added 10% off white to AK RC303 as per Nick Millman, and laid down two thin, highly diluted (80%) coats.

There was only one area that I thought needed some slight chipping, and it was the battery access panel on the right side. again, the chipping went too well, but I'll leave the results as is. The control surfaces were sprayed AK RC 302, with the metal trim tabs on the elevators painted AK RC303.

Next up are the leading edges. I want to do my usual chipping on the topsides where the fuel hose rubs the wing. I'm relieved that I finally have some colour on the plane, it's been a very long build (started in April) and I'd like to move on to another kit (most likely an Army plane).

10 attached images. Click to enlarge.

What a massive update - lots of progress, and some fine work too.

Thanks Guys @airbum @fiveten. It was a long time between updates and I was seriously lacking motivation to complete this, to be honest. But now that the paint is on, I find the drive to finish it is back. So here is another update.

Next up were the leading edge ID bands, painted with the usual Mr Color C58. Looking at the photos now, I probably should have painted the upper bands all the way the fuselage, spomething I'll do next time. I like to chip a bit of the leading edges close to the fuselage to simulate the crew standing on the wing while making repairs to the engine and from the fuel hose rubbing on the leading edge. C58 dries fairly glossy, which makes it harder to chip, so what I try to do is to hairspray/paint/chip within an hour. You really have to hit the model pretty hard and for a long time go get the chipping started. Sometimes I like to sand stubborn paint with 2000 grit sponge to get the water to activate the hairspray underneath.

3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

to bring my weekend update to a close, I painted the upper cowl blue-black, making sure to mask the area under the canopy (that would be the interior colour). I am planning to chip this a bit today, mostly around the front of the cowl and just aft of the exhaust. Next up are the markings. On the plane in question, it appears that the white ring was overpainted, something you don't really see that often with Raidens

7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

After a short break, looking at the plane, I decided to add a bit more rivet chipping to the wings. I will be doing a bit more, but I'll use some 2-3000 grit sanding sponge to create wear and abrasion outboard of the chipped areas, and to dull the paint a bit.

4 attached images. Click to enlarge.