Hasegawa 1/48 Ki-43 I

Started by Woody Kubacki · 43 · 7 months ago
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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    New year, new plane. Actually, I started this last year, around October, but vacations, holidays, and the freezing cold weather (it was -40 C here last week, it's 0 now), have gotten in the way of my progress. I have found a very interesting subject in the j-aircraft forum, as well as in Pacific Profiles Vol. 1 and so I cracked open this venerable kit. Despite the issues with fuselage of the Hasegawa kit, I have a few more of these Oscars in my collection and need to eventually build them.

    First issued in 2000, Hasegawa issued the type I and the type II (early and late) III in 2013. Typical of Hasegawa kits of that era, they tried to have the fewest type specific parts as possible, which led to separate wingtips for each type. Unfortunately, the fit isnt ideal and there is created a seam line running through the aileron of the type II.

    I started off by gluing the wingtips to each wing half to eliminate any misalignment that may occur when one follows the kit's instructions (flue wings together, glue wingtips together, then glue wingtips to wings. Next I cut the flaps area out and sanded the separate flaps thin so that they would then fit into the wings. I personally don't like the mandatory flap deployed on this kit, as you rarely see a Japanese plane on the ground with flaps extended

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    Next I worked on the cockpit. Since it is quite small and the opening into the cockpit is small, I didn't add too much detail, other than straps to the rudder bar and Eduard belts. The cockpit was painted AK RC 329 Hairanshoku grey indigo... or was it MRP 417... I can't remember to be honest. The reason for using this colour is that pre-war and early war IJA planes were painted this colour. There is even footage of a Ki-61 (possibly a ko or otsu) in Japan remnants of the dark blue grey paint inside the cockpit. The cockpit was given a wash to give it a dirty/dusty look.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    The kit's engine is pretty good. I jazzed it up with ignition wires made from lead wire and a wash with Tamiya enamel weathering panel liner (black, brown, dark brown)

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    The fuselage and wing were each glued together, the cockpit added and the wings and fuselage glued together. This kit comes together very well, for a 23 year old kit. Some filling, sanding, and filling and sanding and she was ready for primer (Mr Surfacer 1500). While the primer may not be completely necessary for a lacquer topcoat, I use it to fill and small imperfections in the model and identify any seams or scratches that require extra work.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 10 months ago:

    Excellent entry, Woody @wkubacki
    Both, cockpit and engine, do look amazing.
    The wiring of the engine adds a lot of realism.

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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    Once the bodywork was completed I sprayed the model with my favourite metallic paint, Mr Color Super Metallic SM208 Super Duralumin. I think it about 2-2.5:1 (it's already thin to start with) with Mr Color Rapid Thinner (MRT) and spray it at 15 psi from my 0.3 brush. MRT has less retarder than the regular thinner, and much less than the Levelling thinner (MLT), allowing the pigment to settle quickly for a nicer finish.

    After spraying SM 208, I noticed that the surface of the kit in some spots could have used more work, but I won't be bothered to fix them. I then masked off the fabric control surfaces and painted them MRP 415 Hairyokushoku, grey green.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    for the gear bay and gear doors, I mixed up a bluer version of Aotake using Mr Color clear green and blue, about 50:50 and thinned with MRT. I normally use Tamiya paints to do this but I'm not always happy how long it takes for highly thinned acrylic paints to dry. This time, the paint went on better and I think I will do this from now on. I then sprayed a flat clear (MR Color GX 114) to give it a worn look and a good base to weather with oils.

    One thing to note, I'm not sure if the gear doors were painted Aotake. Like Nakajima built Zeros, I think only the gear bays and maybe the upper doors may have been protected with Aotake.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    Finally, last night I started on the factory markings. When building Japanese army planes that were camouflaged in the field, one should paint it as it left the factory and then paint the camouflage. This gives a more realistic look as the field camo would never be under factory markings, (something I often see on model builds).

    Using my Came cutter, and my masks that I created on my last Ki-43 build, I cut a new set of masks. Hasegawa instructions show smaller wing Hinomaru for the the type I, with the discs being placed outboard more. I looked at photos of Ki-43 I in New guinea and they all appeared to have larger wing discs that partially covered the aileron and aileron hinge (same as the type II). So this is what I replicated. Additionally, the fuselage hinomaru had a white ring applied to it, most likely by hand as they did not leave the factory that way. I adjusted the thickness of the white ring from the standard 75mm to 50mm.

    Once the hinomaru were painted I noticed that i painted the fuselage hinomaru too far aft...so I guess i will be sanding, priming, painting again tonight. The antiglare was painted as a mix of C125 cowling colour, with some Nato black, rubber black, and flat black to make it look bleached and weathered. On Ki-43 that left the factory in bare metal, the anti glare extends behind the canopy, with the same footprint as when the canopy is fully opened. I knew that the field camo covered the rear anti glare, but kept the forward portion, but I still painted the rear antiglare. I did this because I am thinking of not fully painting over the rear antiglare, or have portions of the topcoat flaking off to expose the black.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 10 months ago:

    Excellent entry, ditto progress and superb looks so far, my friend @wkubacki! Looking forward to your next steps!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 10 months ago:

    You are making some really fast progress, Woody @wkubacki
    The painted hinomarus do look great, a pity the fuselage ones are a bit on the wrong location, but leaving them like this will hardly be noticed.

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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    @johnb @fiveten
    Thanks guys. The upgrades are simple (maybe except to the flaps, but that's not too hard either) and are simple enough that I won't get bogged down in the build. More detail work I will leave for my 1/32 kits.

    Unfortunately, now that I know that the hinomaru were in the wrong location, I will always know it and it will always bug me. Getting the resprayed are to match the rest of the plane may be tricky, but fortunately the topside will be oversprayed in blue, and the bare metal will only be partially visible after chipping. I swear I will have to dunk this entire plane in hairspray, haha.

    5 minutes of sanding with my Infini 1000 stick :

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 10 months ago:

    You will definitely get it superbly done, my friend @wkubacki!

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    Louis Gardner said 10 months ago:

    Woody Kubacki (@wkubacki)
    This is another excellent addition to our Empire of Japan group. Thank you for starting another one here. I am always impressed with your builds, and this one is no exception. I have several of these 1/48 scale Hasegawa Ki-43's in my stash, and a Fine Molds one too now that I'm thinking about it. I will definitely be taking notes and I thank you in advance for posting the details you always do.

    I know exactly which plane you are building. I saw it in my copy of the Volume One book, and immediately knew that when I get to work on my Oscar's that this would be one of the ones I would be building. It looks really cool with the Blue upper surface color and the white stripes on the wings and tail section. Having a good color photo of the surviving tail section relic proves these planes were indeed Blue. I think your cockpit color is also spot on. As far as the main gear well covers, I'm 99 percent sure they were left as is in a natural metal finish. They always look to be the same as the surrounding wing surface sheet metal in the B&W pictures. Now having said this, someone will find a good picture proving otherwise. I'm sure that no matter what you pick, it will look great when completed as all of your models do.

    This is already taking shape fast. I'm happy these kit's go together like they do, and I'll keep your wing tip building process in mind when I get to work on mine. Your also inspiring me to build one of my Oscars as if it had just left the factory, in a bare metal finish. Thanks ! 🙂

    PS: I should be posting my 1/48 scale Ki-21 Sally soon. It's the new tool ICM kit and it's a real beauty !

    I made sure to add the decals and make it look as if it had left the factory before I started adding the field applied camouflage. Your comment about this often not being done properly is also spot on.

    Thanks again.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 10 months ago:

    A good decision, Woody @wkubacki
    You are fully right that if you know something is not perfect, it will always be bothering you when you look at it.

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    Woody Kubacki said 10 months ago:

    Hinomaru are back on. After sanding, I applied Mr Surfacer 1500 black, then SM 208. The match wasn't perfect but it will have to do. The hinomaru were masked , this time I slid the mask until it covered roughly half of the radio/baggage door on the port side.

    In addition to the hinomaru, I sprayed "lift here " lines on the underside if the wings and a walkway on the port wing (I used Tamiya Nato Black).

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.