Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai (George) 1/32

Started by Colin Gomez · 100 · 3 years ago
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    Colin Gomez said 4 years, 1 month ago:

    Thanks for your kind comments and insights, Louis! I didn't think of the fuel tank placement and the logic of accessing it and keeping it safe but I am sure you are correct. I have a pic I downloaded with labels in Japanese which clearly shows darkened areas where the fuel tanks are placed.

    The shaded areas correspond perfectly with all four underside panels that show no rivets inside the panel. I think the schematic shows the bulkheads and stringers on which the tanks rested in ghost view, which doesn't imply that rivets were there. It's great that I now have a clear rationale for omitting rivets across the panel areas in these places. Thanks again for figuring this out!

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    Colin Gomez said 4 years, 1 month ago:

    Hi guys. I finally got the the tail and wing section attached. In fact, I had to do a bit of last minute surgery - especially to deal with the clear access panel window in the fuselage.

    I realized that the window would reveal the unpainted structural bulkhead of the model inside . I decided to avoid this by blocking off the area behind the window with a kind of box structure. I painted the inside walls of the box flat black. It was tricky to get this to fit inside without smearing glue over the transparent window. I also wanted it to be block all light gaps and still have depth (some might simply paint the inside of the window black but I wanted a sense of depth). I guess this might anticipate a judge at a model show shining a penlight in there to make sure I didn't leave anything unpainted. Anyway, I got the box made and installed. I hope the effect is worth the effort. BTW, as I placed the cockpit tub in the fuselage, I used a handle I made to position the tub more firmly and precisely in place. The fit of the assembly is very tight, so it is good to have some means to move it around and pull it out, if necessary. Before attaching the wing assembly, I also had to deal with a gap where light would shine through the fuselage around the wheel wells. I blocked this area off on both sides with strips of styrene.

    Two shots show the overall view of the model with the wings and tail planes now permanently attached.

    I also took a few shots of the cockpit installed now in the completely riveted fuselage. I will do a bit of sanding and underside riveting now before the acrylic metalizer sequence. Hope you like the way it looks so far. Not so dramatic progress but a turning point for me.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 1 month ago:

    Good choice to make the "coalhole" effect on that small window. Of course it is visible to the bright flash in the picture, but to the naked eye under normal conditions it is just one of those details taht makes all the difference! Well done.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 1 month ago:

    Hi Colin @coling!
    Progress is really good, and I like your approach for blocking the view; also the blockage of light through the wheel wells walls.
    Your pics-in-text with the notes are really stunning! Your presentation looks even more interesting like this!

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    Jeremy Millan said 4 years, 1 month ago:

    The George is looking good Colin! The view of the CP looks great. Especially with belts. Also you have some amazing scratch building skills man. Cheers

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Thank you Erik, Spiros and Jeremy for your comments. I haven't posted anything for a month and a half, having experienced a bit of a modelling slump. I ran out of motivation on all the various projects I had going on for some reason. Anyway, I finally got going again and made some progress on the Shiden Kai. The Vallejo acrylic primer and metal finish worked well and I got the undersides done. Here is a summary of the process:

    I started by priming the undersides with Vallejo Surface Primer thinned about 60-40 Vallejo Thinner to Primer.

    This went down well but one panel had some bits of cat fur stuck in it so I stripped it off carefully with a toothpick and resprayed (panel shown in gray plastic). The Primer is very quite fragile and comes off quite easily, at least when not fully cured. Under the metalizer the finish is stronger but you have to be careful when masking. Here are some shots of the results: The finish is nice and smooth and shows the rivet detailing well. I may or may not seal it with Vallejo sealer or MM Aryl Gloss to improve durability when masking. I don't like risking getting more cat hairs and dust motes by adding unnecessary layers. The next pics show how I masked and sprayed the yellow ID panels in the underwing metalized areas and left the yellow overspray unmasked topside (Tamiya Flat Yellow). I will mask off the panels on the upper wing surfaces for further layers of metalizer, camo, etc. For now I am planning how to paint on the hinomarus, followed by black primer and metalizer at the wing root for later chipping effects. I kind of dread this part because there are so many layers to deal with and unintentionally lifted paint can be hard to fix. Oh well, got to soldier on. BTW, I also sprayed the landing gear with primer and metalizer. This is also a first for me but I like the results. I hope this is of some use to my fellow modelers. I have had a phobia about using metalizers for some time and I am pretty happy with how things are progressing. I can definitely recommend Vallejo acrylic metalizers as reliable and forgiving with smooth results (thinned about 50-50 with Primer, BTW. Comments welcome.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Wow, Colin @coling, what a comeback after a mini break!
    Your Metalizer indeed looks to perform flawlessly.
    The Shinden-Kai looks amazing.
    Waiting for your next installment!

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros. I am concentrating on this one project for now to conserve modelling energy. Sometimes it pays off to maintain focus. More to come soon.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Here are the next stages on the Shiden Kai. I am painting on the wing hinomarus now. I used Silly Putty to mask the ID panels and prevent red overspray.

    The putty keeps the paint from building up and causing unwanted transition lines under later layers of paint. I also used raised paper masks to mark the circumference of the markings after a light spray of Tamiya Flat Red. I then removed the masks and filled in the circles. All this was to make sure that I sprayed accurately and not excessively before masking off the hinos again later. Doing the red first is the opposite of the way I did these markings on my Betty. I figure there is less risk of leakage under the mask this way and easier clean up if there is. That's it for now. Happy modeling.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Nice painting technique, Colin @coling.
    Seems to work well!

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Colin, @coling

    It's good to see you busy with this one again. I'm happy to hear that your model building "Mojo" has returned. It has obviously done so in a grand fashion, as the work you have shown us looks very nice. I too have been very busy lately with other things that have been keeping me from posting as much as I would like to. I don't stop by as often as I would like and post something, but it doesn't mean I'm not watching. Keep up the great work. 🙂

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros for keeping up with my gradual progress and commenting on the details. More done now below.

    Thanks, Louis. I am happy to be back. Although I am working slowly, I find it it is worth it to take time and care with metal finishes (even when they are just undercoats for chipping). Anyway, glad to know you are you are still watching. Hopefully this will become more interesting to others when the Shiden Kai finally hits the finish line.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Hi guys. Here is some more progress on the Shiden Kai. I am now laying down the undercoat layers for the limited chipping effects I will do around the wing roots and ammo access panels. BTW, I have avoided bare metal (except for foil) up until now partly because it is so easy to catch dust and lint in the finish. I think you can see a pretty smooth result in this case after careful spraying and repair of some problem areas . As shown in the pics below, I've found it quite easy to remove stray hairs and motes in acrylic metal finishes. It only requires a bit of Windex and a toothpick and some patience. First overall application of the primer can look pretty good overall.

    Then you discover select areas that need work panel by panel. After scraping that paint it is easy to reapply primer. I also had to redo a panel already primed and metal coated because of accidental scratching and peeling. . Finally, I sprayed the metal coat where I intend to do fairly major chipping, maybe with salt technique. I don't want to put metal everywhere under the camo because: a) it is just too many unnecessary paint layers, b) I think the metal undercoat could cause the JN green to flake off more than I want all over. Final pics show the selective areas coated with metal and the repaired undersides. Next stage will be an acrylic clear coat, masking work and the spraying of mottled pre-shading under the camo. More soon. Thanks for looking.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Just want to pop up and applaud the nice progress - likel Louis I check in now and then to admire the progress. Very nice work Colin.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Very nice job indeed, Colin @coling!
    What an amazing preparation work! Wish I had your patience.
    Keep it up, my friend!