Nakajima A6M2-N type 2 "Rufe", Tamiya 1/48

Started by Erik Gjørup · 61 · 1 year ago · 1/48, A6M2, a6m2-n, airbum, floatplane, Mitsubishi, Nakajima, quarterscale, Rufe, Tamiya, Zero
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    Louis Gardner said 2 years, 2 months ago:

    Erik, @airbum
    I have thoroughly enjoyed reading the introduction, and how you have tied the 109 into this build. 😉

    By the looks of things, you have also made some considerable progress. I really like building these Hasegawa A6M's, and have several underway in various levels of completion. This is also the first time a can recall someone using primer to make the appearance of overlapping panels. This is a novel idea.

    Sign me up with the rest, you have me watching this journal too ! 🙂

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    Erik Gjørup said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Thanks @fiveten, @johnb and @lgardner.

    Tape removed

    Got some qualitytime with my airbrush today

    And decided to give the Rufe one more round of primer before removing the tape.



    With the tape off it looks very rough and more or less a mess

    But check the zero in the background


    It has been sanded and given one more round of primer after the sanding. I think the effect is OK

    next up this one will be sanded and perhaps primed again – tune in again to find out

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    This is really a very interesting trick, my friend @airbum!
    I like the results a lot!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    I'm eager to see how the end result of this trick will be, Erik @airbum
    It looks very promissing.

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    Erik Gjørup said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    @holzhamer, @johnb, @fiveten and @lgardner, the journey continues with a thin update.

    Thinning

    and office added

    Tamiya actually did a nice job getting the cowling to “float”


    but that made me want to thin those cowlflaps

    I added the office as it has been painted



    a few details still to be added though

    Looking a lot better in my humble opinion!



    Comparing the dualbuild – as you may have noticed the seat in the Rufe is set lower – and the corresponding adjustment lever positioned to match.

    next up? tune in and check in a few months time!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Very nice progress, Erik @airbum
    Especially the interiors do look amazing.
    Nice detail on the seat hight.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Nice progress indeed, my friend @airbum! Ditto for the seat height!

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Interesting details so far Erik @airbum
    Really curious to see how that tape/putty trick will show under the final paint layer.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Erik, @airbum
    The progress you have made here looks very good, and I'm amazed at just how much of an improvement it is by thinning out the plastic. I will have to steal your idea and run with it on the remaining A6M's I currently have underway in the "kindergarten" (which was another idea I blatantly took from you as well). 😉

    Like Pedro, @holzhamer
    I too am anxious to see how the tape / primer / putty trick works out for you. Keep it going... 🙂
    Thanks for posting these updates. Hopefully you are back to posting again before a few months time goes by.

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    Erik Gjørup said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    @fiveten, @johnb, @holzhamer and @lgardner. The tape/primer works OK, but I think the Zero worked better with a second full layer after sanding the edges on the first layer. Feel free to steal away Louis!

    DECALS. . . .

    as I decal’ed rivets on this and the Zero this morning it was time to check how it worked after 8 hours drying time

    The rivets are mounted with the carrier film


    It is just possible to see the carrier film here

    and with the film removed the rivets are now on the fuselage.



    I think they may need a wery smooth surface to work, and perhaps even after first layer of final color?

    On the Zero I managed to get the wrong side up, as the protective sheet looked to me to be the backing paper – but this paper can be removed before dipping in water.



    It is a bit timeconsuming – I have a full set for the Tamiya A6M5 if I ever get to build that one – that is a massive amount of rivets! Pedro – you asked in the Zero what brand – it is HGW and they have made a few full sets of decals for some Eduard kits using this method. I have a few 109’s in the pipeline, but they will not get started in the foreseeable future.

    next up I hope to have finished the rivets and either some major parts added or some light paint to check the rivets – time will tell.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    It does look very nice, Erik @airbum
    A lot of additional work which really pays off.
    I worry a bit if they will still be clearly visible after paint and weathering is applied.

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    Erik Gjørup said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    @johnb, the general idea is that you "sense" them, and it is only in some reflections of the light they will be visible. Nothing like cast rivets of the past 🙂
    Anyway, I am just as eager to see the final result!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Indeed, a very interesting result so far, my friend @airbum! Lookin forward to see it done!

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    Erik Gjørup said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Dryfitting a floatplane!

    Patience has never been one of my strong sides. . . .

    And so – no more rivets by now, but I decided to flatten the floats instead. First a picture of a previous dry-fit


    Sits rather high amongst other kits. You have the option of a cart to depict it in some “on land” scene.

    I would rather depict it in the normal operational environment, and thus, out came the saw. . .



    It still needs a lot of finetuning, but so far I am rather happy with the first impression. The main float need to sit a fraction lower, and the right hand one needs to be made flat. It is quite intentional that it is at an angle, as that is the usual stance for such a plane.

    I will have to think hard about how to make the bottom perfectly flat, either it will be my first try at a diorama, or I dip the entire build in shallow thinner and move it onto a pane of glass, or it will be a matter of sanding, checking, sanding, checking, sanding, checking – you get the picture.

    next up – I really do not have a clue, so you will just have to check in again!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Very nice approach to make it more realistic, Erik @airbum
    Indeed perfect to place it in a diorama this way.