Tamiya 1/48 A6M5 652 Ku Junyo 1944

Started by Woody Kubacki · 35 · 1 year ago
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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Before I started my A6M3 type 22 build, I was working on this, but after some frustrations I put it aside. Now that I'm almost done the type 22, I decided to revisit this model, as I always want to finish every, or rather most, kits that I start. I decided to build his as an early type 52, with no cannon fairings and old style droptank, and one built by Nakajima. I have acquired the MRP paints and I wanted to use them (well, for the exterior anyways). I also wanted to build a fairly clean plane, so I decided on the kit's 3 over 320-85, of the 652 Ku based on the Junyo in 1944. There is one surviving photo of this plane (the tail) and although there is some question as to whether this photo was taken in home waters, I chose to use the kit markings (also something out of the normal for me).

    As usual, the kit was started with the cockpit. I added some plumbing and with Ryan Toews' help, I modified the kit parts to fit an early type 52 (ie removal of the tailhook rotation lever and cutting off the fire extinguisher control box)

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Next, the cockpit was painted with Mr Color C8 for the areas I wanted to chip, then AK RC306 (since my MRP hadn't arrived yet). I added a set of Eduard belts and a Tamiya panel line wash. The fuselage behind the cockpit was left in bare metal, as it is most likely that Nakajima A6M5 did not have the Aotake applied there.

    The engine was wired up, 28 wires for 14 cylinders, and the fuselage and wings all glued up. I find that the cannon inserts do not fit very well, not Tamiya-well. There was also a sinkhole on the left side of the fuselage that had to be filled in. After a couple rounds of primer/filling and sanding the plane was ready for black basing.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    For the undersides, I used Mr Surfacer 1000 Mahogany as a black basing base to better match the final colour. Various shades of tan and brown were mottled on and then MRP 429 Nakajima J3 SP was sprayed on over the entire surface (undersides of ailerons and elevators as at this point these were not a different colour). And then I had a look... not good. Nakajima had a darker version of J3 SP but as far as I can tell, by the time of the A6M5, it matched more closely Mitsubishi's version of amber grey.

    I also believe from colour photos and from j-aircraft/relics, that Nakajima didn't have a neutral grey version of J3 SP, although some photos do show a greyer shade, so I sprayed a the Mitsubishi J3 SP instead. 2 steps forward, 1 step back. I did not spray any aluminum or red oxide primer as there would be no wear on the fuselage.

    You will also notice that I received a new cardboard box for my spraybooth, haha. Its actually from a new vent hood fan to replace the one that broke over the holidays.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Since this was a Nakajima built Zero, I had to paint the gear bays, clamshell doors and small rectangular doors aotake. I used my favourite technique: spray SM208 or any fine pigment metallic paint, and then spray a mix of clear green and clear blue (4:1), making some areas darker than others. Then a final flat coat of GX114 was sprayed to tone down the shine.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    What a superb entry, my friend @wkubacki!
    And what great progress!
    As always with your builds, looks are splendid.
    Looking forward to it!

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    And now to the topsides, and a paint I was looking forward to using., MRP 429 D1 Deep Black Green. I marbled various blues and green over black primer and then sprayed the D1. About halfway through, I realized that I had made a mistake. Since D1 is a very dark colour, spraying it over black made it even more so. Looking back I should have sprayed it over grey or a green tinted grey. I actually compared how this would look on my Zero wing mule, and also compared the MRP D1 to the AK D1.

    I then found series of sink marks on the topside of the wings over the flaps. At first I thought they were paint runs, but then realized that the amount of paint I spray could not induce runs. A quick sanding and then black primer and D1 solved this issue.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Now on to the markings. As usual I scan in the decals and instructions from the kit to use to create masks in CAD. Fortunately, Ryan Toews recently posted in the A6M FB group regarding type 52 hinomaru size and locations and the differences between Nakajima and Mitsubishi. For the upper hinomaru on Nakajima built Zeros, the with ring surround is 30mm, much thinner than the regulation 75mm width Mitsubishi applied. Nakajima also moved the hinomaru a bit further forward, so that they would not have to paint the cover for the aileron control hinge. Both hinomaru were enlarged from the A6M3 (900mm) to 1170mm. I wonder if this was a detriment to Zero pilots?

    From the photo of this plane, the white surrounds were painted over. This was generally done with a dark green paint, but since it was hand brushed, it appeared darker than the dark green on the fuselage. I mimiced this by mixing in some flat black with the D1 paint.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Oops, here are the photos for the hinomaru that Ryan provided

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Next up I painted the tail numbers, the cowl (MRP 432), cowl "85" and cowl MG alignment lines. The spinner and propeller were painted with MRP 431 propeller colour. Its a bit more reddish mahogany compared to the Mr Color paint, but with a bit of flat clear it doesn't look too bad. I will probably use a combination of these paints for future builds. I also sprayed some flat clear on the cowling as Nakajima had a flatter finish than Mitsubishi.

    Yellow wing IFF bands were painted (thinner but longer than their Mitsubishi counterparts), exhaust was painted, and wing walk lines were painted, although the latter are too thick to my eye and will need some correction.

    Well that's where the build is as of now. I will need to fix the no walk lines and then proceed with the stencil decals (using the A6M2 set from Eduard). I did notice that the upper portion of the oil cooler that is attached to the lower wing does not fit well and causes a step from the cowl to the oil cooler. I will probably saw that part off and just glue the oil cooler on. Oh Tamiya, you are supposed to be better than this.

    9 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Beautiful entry and ditto progress, Woody @wkubacki

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Looking better and better, my friend @wkubacki!
    Yes, you may find mismatch even at a Tamiya!

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Thanks guys.

    After looking at the oil cooler, I realized it was sitting too high and the upper portion of the intake (attached to the lower wing) was too high.

    First step was to cut a portion of plastic off on the top side of the upper intake for the oil cooler, this allowed me to bend it up to sit flush with the cowl. This was a better option than cutting it off entirely or gluing it in a new location as it was less work and the smoothness of the upper intake was maintained.

    Then I sanded down the oil cooler intake where it met the lower wing. And finally I cut a portion of the lower two cowl flaps so that I could bend them up a bit to match the cowl. Actually, the oil cooler fit perfectly to the cowl before any mods took place, it’s just that the oil cooler sat too high on the lower wing. Not sure if this was something I messed up or if others have come across this.

    I’ll need to glue the oil cooler on and then fill the small gap with mr surfacer and repaint . This is definitely not something I wanted to do this late in the build, but overall it was an easy fix and improved the look of the model.

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Nice job on repositioning the cooler intake, my friend @wkubacki!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Nice result on the scratchbuild correction, Woody @wkubacki

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    Woody Kubacki said 1 year, 10 months ago:

    Wasn’t too happy with the width of the no walk lines above the flaps so I narrowed the fore and Inboard lines. Still a little wide overall but I will have to play with my mask model to get them perfect

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.