Zoukei-Mura J7W1, 1/48. The 'Magnificent Lightning'

Started by Harvey R. · 69 · 2 years ago · Empire of Japan, EoJ, EoJGB, IJN, J7W, J7W1, Japan, Kyushu, Shinden, WWII
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    Harvey R. said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Thank you!

    Also, interestingly, the Shindens engine is clearly viable in the wheel well on the wings. According to the ZM book this accurate, I can't imagine the Shinden would have liked operating from dirt runways in that case.

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    Harvey R. said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Building the Exterior Part II



    I had a bit of time so I removed the panels that'll be opened up for the engine to be visible.

    This was done simply with a knife, cutting repeatedly into the recessed panel lines.

    One issue I had was cutting up the intake, it's not a perfect shape to the panel but it'll do.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Very nice surgery, Harvey @scalerambush
    I think with this fragile landing gear, the Shiden would preferably have been used on tarmack runways and therefore the engine becoming less dirty through the wheelwells.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Great progress, my friend @scalerambush! Passing the blade repeatedly over the recession is also my usual way of separating panels.

    Looks like the Shinden suffered from engine overheat when on the ground, as most planes of the era with enclosed rear mounted engines did. Maybe its designers had left the bays open, so extra fresh air would cool that engine... Maybe they planned to close the bays once they would have found ways to cool the engine more efficiently... Who knows...

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    Louis Gardner said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Harvey, @scalerambush
    It has been several days since I have last checked in. I have learned a lot from reading your latest installments. Thanks for taking the time to post such detailed steps, along with these fantastic pictures. This plane is definitely coming along nicely. Please keep up the great work, and Happy New Year to you and your family.

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    Harvey R. said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Afternoon folks, been a short while. I tried to post something last week but due to bad internet at the time the post failed and I couldn't really be bothered to write out again. Regardless, here's what I've been up to.

    Building the Exterior, Part III



    So the failed post was about this so I'll quickly go over it, with the exterior panels added to the whole aircraft excluding the engine sides (which I think in the last post were just dry fitted) it was time to attach them. Boy, this wasn't the easiest of tasks. Firstly I started with the right hand side and decided the best route was to just do it slowly and separately especially since there wasn't a whole lot of join to the other side since I cut it out. This went on fine with no major issues, though a noticeable gap at the wing root on the leading edge where 3 pieces converge was noticed.

    Onto the right side, this was more problematic. With a significant chunk removed the part became a lot more bending and as such wouldn't quite fit against the wing correctly with a curved bend meaning the middle of the piece was far away. Eventually this was solved by putting an interesting Youtube video on, masking the front and rear of the panel in place and holding a curved pair of tweezers to effectively use the leverage to keep pressure in the area and holding it like that for a good 15-20 minutes. This solved most of the issue, but some filler would be required.

    The real problem area was the rear engine cover. This piece is easily the most problematic part I've had with the model. With 4 parts converging, plus the those intakes on the inside of the side panels, there was just a lot going on here. Eventually after removing the glued part a couple of times and retrying I managed to get it in a decent place, one big problem was the side panels just didn't want to bend into place because there is so much going on inside the model and I think the exhausts and intakes were pushing the whole piece of out alignment. With some masking tape, brute force, and plenty of waiting whilst I glued each individual piece and let it dry before moving to the next piece it got mostly in place, though there was a rather significant gap. Fundamentally it's hard to say whether the model has bad as the issue is more than likely to do with something being out of place when I built the interior. Regardless, I used a fair amount of Mr Dissolved Putty on all the gaps, including the ones on the nose and all around the nose cap (which also didn't fit at all well requiring me to remove the join tabs completely), sanded them down roughly and then got to priming.

    Mr.Surfacer 1500 Grey this time, I wanted black but I was all out of it so grey will do. In all honestly grey is probably better as I don't want the metallic coat I put on later to be too dark. Eitherway, the plane got one coat and then a thorough filling, sanding and some rescribing. This was followed by another coat of primer. Oh, how could I forget? A lot of masking tape was required to keep the engine safe. I also added to the top panel to make life a bit easier which is just sticky taped on, and the gun bays are stuck on with blue-tac.


    Painting the Shinden



    With that done it's time to begin painting, first up with a Metallic coat. The instructions call for a white, which I find very unlikely as Japanese planes didn't have undersides of white but rather their light 'apple-blossom' green, or more realistically by this point of the war many planes had bare metal undersides. Looking at photographs it seems the underside is metallic, and even the ZM book states it to be metallic which is strange that the instructions say otherwise, possibly this is due to the model replicating a 'production' aircraft rather than a prototype. Anyways, the model received 2 coats of MRP's Super Silver. This is very similar to their White Aluminium which I wanted but couldn't get a hold of.

    With this done I added some stencils, these won't be the exact right size I fear but are close enough. I added the top markings which do measure the same size as the decals included which were donated from an old N1K2 Shiden-Kai I did almost 2 years ago during the first Covid lockdown (time flies, eh?). As soon as I put them on I remembered I wanted to add some panel variation, so I chose a few panels and painted them in a darker colour which was a mix of maybe 20% Duraluminium and the Super Silver paints. It's very subtle but I like it this way as it only shows in certain lighting and angles, rather than being too in your face like on the aforementioned N1K2 I did. At this point the blue-tac'd gun bay panel fell off and needs to be rescued from under the desk, but this isn't a big deal as I wanted to paint this a bit darker anyways. Now with all this done it's back to painting the markings.


    Generally paint masks + chipping fluid is a bit of a gamble, but hey let's take a risk. The roundels will be painted and then covered, followed by any panels remaining bare-metal. The model will then get chipping fluid followed by the green, and then chipped similarly to the reference photos, and then finally some gloss coats. All going well the masks covering the painted roundels will not pull up a tonne of chipping fluid, but we shall see.

    4 additional images. Click to enlarge.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Fantastic paintwork, Harvey @scalerambush
    I agree with you that a white underside is very unlikely. Your metalic underside is the way to go.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Fantastic results so far, my friend @scalerambush!
    I also agree for the metallic undersides.

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    Louis Gardner said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Harvey, @scalerambush
    You have made considerable progress since my last check in... I am very impressed with everything about this model, and your talents are taking it to the next level. Good call with the color choices... I think your thoughts about this are spot on.

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    Harvey R. said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Time for some colour, eh?


    Thank you for the words, the silver underside is looking good. I wasn't able to discern whether the ailerons were metal or fabric, but they seem metal to me. As such I left them silver on the underside, on aircraft like the Ki-84 and N1K2 it was often the case that whilst the underside lost the grey/green underside colour due to paint shortages, the fabric control surfaces remained that colour.

    Painting the Shinden, Part II



    First up was painting the roundels, this was done with leftover N1K2 Montex paint masks. They all got a coat of white, followed by Tamiya red.

    Some issues showed up due to overspray notably due to the masks not working well on the raised details, particularly on the underside where the small built in racks for 60kg bombs are. These still need to get fixed up, but I'll do that later.

    At the same time I selected a few panels on the upper surfaces to be left bare metal, using Tamiya tape I burnished the tape onto the model with a cocktail stick and then with a fresh scalpel I cut down the panel lines to cut out the mask. I also added blue-tac worms for the camouflage, no real care was taken here as symmetry doesn't matter but I did try and make the rise and fall of the wavey lines similar in position to the real thing.

    Next up was chipping fluid, a couple of layers here of Scratching Effects fluid as I used on the Corsairs.

    Once that dried up, it was time for the green, Tamiya J.N Green for this one. As normal I sprayed the base colour, followed by a darkened coat on the panels, and finally a lightened one in the middle of the panels. I didn't go too overboard with this one as the subject shows weathering which looks quite like dust and debris (keep in mind this particular photo depicts the aircraft with bare-metal panels being added to fix damage the aircraft sustained likely in a storm), which I think will be a better replicated with oils paints and such.

    Obviously with chipping fluid on the model I'm keen to not make the same masking mistakes made on the Corsair, some panels will be later masked off and painted in various tones of green to make them look like added panels. Notably the panel before the roundel on the left fuselage seems brighter than the rest so I'll do this then.

    In the meantime here is how the model looks now, panel masking removed and all. Plus some comparisons to the source.


    6 additional images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    You are doing a truly spectacular job there, my friend @scalerambush!
    As always,our attention to details is phemomenal.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 4 months ago:

    Fantastic work done, Harvey @scalerambush
    She starts to look like a perfect copy of the original one.

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    Harvey R. said 2 years, 3 months ago:

    As always, a busy week. But I have got my head down and got the majority done on the Shinden, well, in fact it's all done other than final assemblies.


    The Smaller Assemblies

    From the last post I still had some small parts to sort out, starting with the canopy. These were masked with lots of small pieces of tamiya tape and has thoroughly reaffirmed my belief that pre-cut masks are always a must have purchase for me. Regardless, I painted them the same way I normally do. First with the interior colour, then with the exterior. I then remembered the front windscreen was bare-metal so went back over it with some aluminium paint. As another divergence from the source material, if you look closely you can see the photographs depict the aircraft without any canopy glass but naturally I was unwilling to attempt to remove the glass on these pieces. The kit comes with a single piece closed canopy or a three piece one for opened, I went for the three piece and will leave the sliding canopy unglued.


    Next was that mighty six-bladed propeller, this was simply done by spraying the propeller yellow, masking off the tips, and painting the rest in a brown. I used Tamiya's XF-10 for this, which is curiously more red than their XF-64 Red Brown. The two pieces for the spinner were painted green, and given a tiny bit of chipping with some paint and some sponge, before all being assembled.

    The undercarriage also recieved its doors, these were weathered with Tamiya panel liner before being glued on.

    And finally the flaps were painted. Now, sometime a piece decides to jump off into the void and one of the smaller flap pieces did just this. Normally a quick look finds the missing piece, unfortunately despite quite literally the biggest search and rescue effort for a piece of plastic I've ever done I still couldn't find the thing, so I had to scratchbuild a replacement out of some thin plasti-card.


    Weathering the Shinden



    First of all it was time to utilise the chipping fluid, with water a cocktail stick and some tweezers I got scratching away and largely followed what could be seen in photos. Some panels were barely touched, a lot of panels had chippings across the panel lines, a couple panels were completely weathered, there is a large variety on offer in the photos and where I can't see I tried my best to replicate something interesting.

    After this I gave the model a FloryModels dark dirt wash, a year ago I'd swear by this product but the last few kits have highlighted how hard it is to get rid off all of it from the nooks and crannies of a kit. I still think it's good, and wanting to go for a dusty finish I thought any leftovers weren't a bad thing. Unfortunately the wash didn't adhere very well to the undersides, so here I used some more Tamiya Panel Liner which worked quite nicely.

    Finally I did some oil work, not a lot mind you but enough to try and create some more variation. Again, I wanted a bit of a dusty look but not go so far it looked like my Corsair that was covered in dust and sand.

    The final steps are just to glue everything together. Undercarriage, doors, canopy, and also to paint some parts like the gun barrels. I've decided to add the pitot tube and antenna wires, the aircraft is missing these in the photograph but I figure if I've added the guns then adding some interesting looking antennas can't do any more harm.

    Seeing it like this really highlights the shape of the Shinden, it's such a sleek design that I can't help but feel a bit of regret for not doing it wheels up in flight, I suppose there is always a chance of doing the Hasegawa kit on a stick someday.

    1 additional image. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years, 3 months ago:

    This is a really wonderful result, my friend @scalerambush! The unpainted panels look simply fantastic, the rest of the weathering as well.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 3 months ago:

    Once again beautifulwork has been done on your Shiden, Harvey @scalerambush
    Weathering does indeed look great and represents the original one perfectly.