Revell 1/48th Eurofighter Typhoon

Started by Chuck A. Villanueva · 94 · 5 years ago
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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years, 6 months ago:

    Thanks Paul, it does look impressive on the Typhoon. I have a decal sheet of several USN aircraft that were painted in WWII schemes that now have really peaked my interest. These were for the USN/USMC 75th Naval Aviation anniversary. Didn't get a chance to build one of them at the time. May just look into that for a planned build next year.

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    Louis Gardner said 5 years, 6 months ago:

    Now this is looking COOL !

    A classic look for a modern fighter. Excellent work as usual Chuck.

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years, 6 months ago:

    Thanks Louis, it will add a little color to the more modern grey toned jets. Couple of more details to cover before getting to the decal process.

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Once the camo has dried for a week. Time to mask off the areas around the upper surfaces to paint the Light Grey panels and leading edges. Starting first with each canard winglets


    Next the wings. Just forward of the flaps and off the trailing edge of the wing itself is a narrow panel that will be painted light grey. On both sides I mask the surrounding area off.

    Now the leading edges of the wings are left exposed, the RH side has a bulge as the wing meets the fuselage, so it is not equal on both sides.

    Next a narrow panel is next to be left exposed on the tail. This area is masked off from the base of the tail to the top edge of the rudder.

    Then the painting starts, quick light coats are airbrushed carefully over the exposed sections and leading edges.

    The masks are removed and then time to mask off the areas up to the leading edge of the tail.

    And also the panels just forward of the engine bare metal section is also painted Lt Grey.

    Let the grey dry overnight, masked off the areas around the exposed bare metal. This is airbrushed using Vallejo Steel.

    Finally a little touch up on the overspray, and next up is to shoot the glossy clear coat and start putting some decals on this Tiffie.

    more to follow.

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    Jeff Bailey said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    REALLY beautiful, Chuck! The Typhoon is such a cool aircraft and yours, in Battle Of Britain livery is extra special.

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    david leigh-smith said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Chuck, this build continues to inform and entertain. Beautifully done. And I can’t wait to see how the propellor looks as you’ve been clearly keeping it under wraps for the big reveal!

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    Jeff Bailey said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    LoL!

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Thanks Jeff, classic RAF BoB colors on a modern jet really captures the spirit of that era.
    D-L, if you look into the exhaust nozzles you can see them. lol

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    I finally ran out of Future, the bottle I bought almost 20 years ago. So went out and bought a new bottle at Walmart. Don't recall what it cost the last time. No matter, I will make this last another 20 years.
    I will be using Caracal Decal set #48-090 , which is a single Eurofighter Typhoon in the BoB anniversary scheme of Dark Earth/Dark Green over Light Grey.


    Will also use the kit sheet for the stencils other common decals used on the airframe

    After letting the glossy future finish set for a week. Starting with the under surface markings. I used both the Caracal and kit decals using the instruction sheet as a guide.

    First the national markings are applied. First one on the RH lower wing panel.

    Then the LH lower is applied. These decals are very thin but do not come apart when moved around to set in place. And do not stick either allowing you to adjust when applied. So far they perform very well.


    Now the kit decals are used for the lower stencils. There are a few to apply.

    First on the lower fuselage then moving on to each lower wing.

    The kit decals are bit thicker but still perform well when applied. So far no silvering and conform well in panel lines and other type of surface.
    Next is to start the decal process on the upper surfaces. Again first applying the national markings on each upper wing half. Looks very WWII now with the throw back roundels.

    Tonight I will do just the LH side of the upper fuselage. Applying the the squadron code and roundel on the fuselage. The fin flash and serial number.


    Some stenciling on the tail and LH outer wing pod. Which also the formation slime lights applied on the leading edge of the tail, pod and nose. And that we leave for now.
    All day up to this point. Will apply the rest tomorrow.

    more to follow.

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    Jeff Bailey said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Just keeps getting better, Chuck!

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Thanks Jeff, the decals on this were much more than i thought. Still have to do the missiles and drop tank.

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    Paul Barber said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Love it Chuck, the decals are making it pop big time! Beautiful stuff!

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Thanks Paul it does bring this scheme up to date. Imagine this scheme if it was used on current RAF Typhoons in service.

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    Paul Barber said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    I know it might be impractical - even unworkable - but boy would it be cool!

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Finally finished up applying all the decals. Along the LH side of the nose, squadron badge, slime lights above the winglet and the pilots name.


    Some stencils and a id marking on the dive brake.

    Finally apply the decals along the RH side of the fuselage, squadron codes, fin flash, stencils and the slime lights.

    Then the hardest part and last of the decals to apply are the wing walks. Multi part decals which took 2 hours to carefully apply. And a good look of the squadron code and roundel on the LH side

    Next applying the stencils on the drop tanks and AMRAAM missiles.

    Now this portion is completed. Next to airbrush the final satin coat finish.
    Will let that set a week and then finally add the final bits and complete the final build for this GB. More to follow.