Gloster Meteor F.8, Airfix 1/48

  • 37 posts
  • Last reply 2 months, 3 weeks ago
  • 1/48, Airfix, Gloster, Meteor
Viewing 16 - 30 of 37 posts
  • Tom Cleaver said 5 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Get the “Korea” boxing. Second pressing, done in UK, better quality control in production.

  • paul teixeira said 5 months, 1 week ago:

    This really looks like it will become a great build and cannot wait to see it built. I wanted to build this exact model recently. I had been waiting to give it a try, but was conflicted between getting the Meteor, or the Airfix EE Lightning F1A. I decided to go with the Lightning but now I am not to impressed with the overall build experience. Seeing your article makes me regret my choice! I want a Meteor like yours…LOL. Good luck and keep her going. Want to see it.

  • Boris Rakic said 5 months ago:

    Thanks guys! Getting the fuselage halves and wings together is still a work in progress. Due to the parts being warped quite a bit I am taking my time, checking fit and alignment ever so often.
    I started by gluing the cockpit in the right fuselage half, using a clamp to ensure a gap-free fit in the back. Lead weights secured with two-part epoxy were used to add ballast.
    The fuselage was brought together using Tamiya Extra Thin, the joints were reinforced from the inside using CA glue. Most of the seams have already been filled with CA and sanded, but there are still some imperfections to be dealt with.
    Before assembling the wings I did a quick paintjob on the engines. Not much will be seen in the end, so I didn’t go overboard on detail.
    Gluing the wings together was started from the tips inwards, the last pictures should give you an idea of how – uhm, pronounced – the warpage really is.
    Next steps will be finalizing the wings and prepping the wing roots – right now it looks like the fuselage will have to be spread a bit to prevent a gap between fuselage and wings.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Tom Cleaver said 5 months ago:

    I had to spread the fuselage on my first one. I used two pieces of sprue, cut to the appropriate length – one in the middle of opening and the other toward the rear. I must say, this is the worst warpage I have seen in one of these kits.

  • Paul Barber said 5 months ago:

    Boris and Tom, thanks for all the comments on handling the distortion seen here and previously encountered – it is actually really good for many of us to hear about and see the adjustments you are (very patiently) making – this will answer many questions that people haven’t asked but will be keen to learn answers to. Thanks so much – despite the bumps in the road it is looking fantastic!

  • Tom Cleaver said 5 months ago:

    Boris is proving daily that you want the “F.8 Korea” boxing. Molded in the UK with solid quality control. Better plastic, better molding, better kit.

  • Boris Rakic said 5 months ago:

    At least the plastic is so soft that it can be coaxed into position. With a bit of creativity you might even be able to create some cute balloon animals out of it…

  • Boris Rakic said 4 months, 2 weeks ago:

    The last weeks have been kind of busy, between Moson and private stuff there wasn’t too much time to work on the Meteor. I did, however, manage to mate the wings and fuselage, and the air intakes were given the fill-sand-rinse and repeat-treatment.
    When working with the wing/fuselage joint, it is necessary to find out what causes all the gaps. First, the upper wing halves are curved too much, resulting in a step between the wing and the wing root (pic 1). To fix that, the upper wings need to be glued to the top of the wheel well (pic 2), eliminating that step (pic 3). Next, there is some material missing from the upper wings, especially along the first 10-15mm. I added a thin piece (0.3mm) of plastic sheet to this section, sanding it flush after the glue had dried. (pic 4)
    After all these fixes, the wings fit reasonably well. The seam at the rear, were the wing meets the separate wing root parts, is quite overstated. Filling this one will not be fun, with all the lovely rivet detail close to the joint. (pic 5)
    The air intakes consist of an outer and an inner tube, sporting a prominent seam. This was filled with putty, then sanded and polished with various sanding sponges. (pic 6) After airbrushing a primer coat of Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black, followed by AK Xtreme Metal Alluminium, the intakes are done. (pic 7)
    Next up will be working on all the wing joints, installing the air intakes, and cleaning up the seams inside the nozzles.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Tom Bebout said 4 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Looking good Boris.

  • Greg Kittinger said 4 months, 2 weeks ago:

    Coming along nicely!

  • Boris Rakic said 3 months ago:

    Progress! Yay! Dealing with all the seams was a bit of a laborious process, but at least it gives me the opportunity to show the various products I use depending on what I want to achieve.
    First, the wing roots. This is a nasty area, as it is tricky to sand puttywork without either destroying detail or changing the wing’s shape. So I decided to try AK Interactive’s Modelling White Putty, as it is advertised as being water soluble and easy to clean off. On the plus side, it really is – a wet cotton bud is all that is needed to remove excess putty immediately after application. On the minus side, you will never want to sand this stuff. It does not sand well, peeling of and behaving like some kind of latex compund. So I would not recommend it for anything but these hard to reach spots.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Boris Rakic said 3 months ago:

    Next, tiny seam lines and other blemishes. I use thin CA glue for these, as it dries vey quickly and sands beautifully within an hour or so. I gave the fuselage joints a quick overspray with flat black to check for these blemishes and fixed them within a day.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

  • John Healy said 3 months ago:

    That’s a fun kit. That model and the new Airfix Walrus are the best modeling experiences I’ve ever had. Enjoy it.

  • Boris Rakic said 3 months ago:

    Finally, the heavy stuff. The joints aound the nose section and the air intakes were rather bad, and I knew that whatever I did to them, I would have to rescribe them later on. Rescribing standard putty or CA glue is always an exercise in frustration, as these materials are either to brittle or to soft – they simply behave different from the kit’s plastic, making consistent results hard to achieve.
    Styrene dissolved in Tamiya Extra Thin is the perfect remedy for this problem. When you read about “Liquid Styrene” or “Sprue Goo”, that is what it is. You take pieces of styrene (I use leftovers from evergreen sheet styrene), drop them in an old bottle of Extra Thin Cement and wati for it to dissolve. This usually takes around 24 hours, and you can adjust its consistency by adding more styrene. I always have a bottle of this stuff on my bench, refilling it from time to time with the remnants of used cement bottles.
    The downside is the rather long drying time and the fact you might have to apply more than one coat, depending on the seam. I had to apply three or four coats, protecting surrounding detail with masking tape. But when everything has cured, you can rescribe the area without issues. I used Tamiya’s flexible masking tape as a guide for the nacelles.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Boris Rakic said 3 months ago:

    After this tedium was out of the way, I could finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. Well, almost. It has already been mentioned that this first release of the Meteor suffers from lack of quality control – including short shots in some areas. The left horizontal stabilizer misses quite a bit of material at the rear, so I had to fill it up with styrene and CA glue. Not difficult, but still somewhat annoying.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

Viewing 16 - 30 of 37 posts