Yes Jeff, Bernard is correct with using a stapler to reconnect the broken track. I actually had to use that method for my last Sherman build. I went out to the hobby room one morning and I noticed something odd about my Sherman. The tracks had snapped in half !

So I borrowed the stapler from my wife and it was an easy fix. I hid the staples by placing them on the bottom run, with a set of road wheels on top of the connection.

Beautiful. Just beautiful.

It looks so good it's ALMOST a shame to dirty it up with weathering and so on. Almost. I really like the wood-look treatment you gave the wooden handles. It looks real.

Well done, Louis.

Tonight's progress consisted of building up the individual track links. Once I got on a roll it went pretty smooth... Here's some more pictures showing how I build most of my tank model track sets...

I start off by carefully cutting out each individual track block from the trees. These are tracks that were manufactured by Dragon / DML. I have found it easier to work with (at least for me) by snipping off the excess plastic so that I end up with individual "sprues" like what you see on the right side of this picture below. It gives me more control with the cutting process.

After a little while you should have a small pile of plastic tracks like what you see here.

Then I assemble them, one by one. Once I get three or four in place, I go ahead and place a small amount of liquid glue at the joint on each side of the center guides... The capillary action draws the glue into the joint where the real track would have a track pin.

Once I get about 8 track blocks glued together, I simply take two wooden dowels, and place one on each side of the center guide. Then with one hand, I squeeze the wooden dowels together using just a little pressure. Too much can cause you problems. All you are trying to do here is make sure the tracks are straight.

With the other hand, place a slight amount of downward pressure to the wooden dowels. This will make sure the tracks are firmly seated together.

I assembled almost enough individual track blocks to complete the track run on this side. I wanted to install the track while the glue was still not fully hardened. This allows me to manipulate the track around the support rollers and sprockets.

I have also found it easier at this point if you can remove the sprockets and rear idler wheels. Then you can make sure the track will fit properly into the teeth of the sprockets. Now is the time when you want to set the track "sag" to suit your tastes.

I still have to install a few more individual track blocks to complete this side. However, I will let things set up overnight. This should make the track easier to glue together once I get the proper number of blocks added to this run...

I normally use some sort of device, (this time it's the same wooden dowels used earlier) to set the track sag. This last photo shows how the Panzer Mk III looks at the moment.

I hope that tomorrow I can finish this one up. Then if things go well, I can post the article up this weekend.

Until then... Comments are encouraged.

Thanks for looking.

You are a true master Louis, I love these old fashioned Individual Track Links! I don't mind assembling them, most importantly you can get the sag on the track exactly right. On the Dragon Tiger kit (my last build) these were DS tracks and the paint (enamel) on them is still drying and sticky after 10 days or so ...

Regarding the hand cranck access hatch, I attached a picture for you I found in the Spielberger book (German) on the Panzer III and it's variants. It appears to me the tank on the picture had a large wooden toolbox on the rear, but the upper hatch you photographed should be the one for the crank. Impossible to tell the version Pzkpfw III in the picture but since the engine placement was similar on all turreted-machines, this should be a fairly general feature.

PS: You can tell from the face of the tanker in the picture it was a hell of a job to get the flywheel going... Probably the kind of job going like: ...I crancked yesterday, you're on today mate!...

1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

Michel,
Thanks for the picture showing how it was done ! That's exactly what I was looking for a few days ago. It looks like the first photo I posted was the correct one for the hand crank.

Also this is good to know about painting Dragon DS tracks. 10 days and the paint still hasn't dried... Wow.

It indeed sounds like a very labor intensive job cranking a Panzer up. From what I have read, this was a "backup" or "plan B" way to start the engines. The hand crank turned over an inertia type starter. Similar to what was used on aircraft.

Thanks again !

Louis, what a beast that thing is! Beautifully done! Man, it looks like it's about to roll off my screen.

I'm so blessed to have you as a friend on this site; you've really supported the GB and made it a blast for all who've watched you, even as we've enjoyed what they've done. Kudos, my friend.

Thanks fellows ! I sincerely appreciate the compliments...

Michel, right now I am working on the FW-190's and the He-111's... I'll post up some pictures in a few... However, the next Armor build is probably going to be a Korean War era Sherman Easy 8.