CB-25J Mitchell

Started by George R Blair Jr · 230 · 1 year ago · 1/48, B-25J Mitchell, CB-25J, MATS, Monogram
  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Great filling and smoothing job, my friend @gblair! Acrylic putty looks good and you definitely are very comfortable with it, hence the excellent result. The test paint shot looks also excellent. Looking forward to the painting!

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Everything turned out real smooth, George @gblair
    The test painting looks very promissing for the entrire surface.
    Looking forward to it.

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). I have my fingers crossed that things will go well today.

  • Profile Photo
    Eric Berg said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    I just now caught up with your build here, George @gblair. Absolutely fascinating what you're doing with this old Revell kit and some great tips. After all that work you put into the canopy tinting and puttying etc, I hope the paint job goes smoothly for you. Are you using Tamiya for the paint?

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Hi, Eric (@eb801). I always have a hard time keeping up with all the cool builds that are going on, so I am glad you found the build. I can always use another set of eyes. It is a game-time decision for the metallics. This is really the first time I have done a 1/48 all-over natural metal finish, so I am doing a little experimenting. I have had good luck spraying Vallejo metals, but never on big areas. I also got some Alclad II that I want to try. One of my other favorites is Humbrol metals in the spray can. I used Humbrol from the spray can on the cowlings and crew ladders, which came out pretty good. I am currently masking the 1256 panes of glass in the various canopies (not really, just seems that way), but I hope to spray the interior color on the canopies this afternoon. If I can, I also hope to spray the primer so that it can dry overnight. I added the markings on the props today using the kit decals. We'll see how the 50-year-old decals do. I am searching through my decals to see if I can cobble the markings together, or I may need to cut some stencils and spray them on. It's an adventure! More later, hopefully.

  • Profile Photo
    Eric Berg said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    I am a big fan of Alclad II and have used Vallejo Metal Color Acrylic so test them both. Be sure to primer coat your 25 with glossy acrylic black first. You can spray Alclad over acrylic. One thing I don’t like about Alclad is that it doesn’t like being touched after it cures so use gloves. I use jewelers white cotton ones. It seems to react with skin oils but it looks the most realistic of them all. Protecting it with a gloss coat prior to decaling is a must. Good luck with those old decals.

    By the way, I only use enamels when I have to, like silver or chrome.

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Thanks for the info, Eric (@eb801). I am leaning toward Vallejo Metals, mainly because of the problems I had heard about with Alcad II. I will do a little experimenting tomorrow with Vallejo, Alclad, and a couple more that I have and see what works best. It is really weird that for a long time I wouldn't use anything except enamels and lacquers (Floquil), and now I don't even like to put enamels in my airbrush. Times change.

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    The plan for today was to add all of the Eduard masks, then paint the interior color over all the glass frames, then hopefully spray the primer so that it could dry overnight. It didn't quite work out that way. The Eduard masks all fit approximately, but none of them fit exactly. I spent a great deal of time cutting, fitting, and adding small strips of Tamiya tape to try to make everything look right. I spent almost 3 hours getting the masking done, which was about 2 hours longer than I expected.

    Next came spraying the interior color over the frames. I tried something new and it actually worked: I mixed AK Real Colors Interior Green and with a little Tamiya Olive Drab to darken it, and thinned it all with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. I wasn't sure if you could mix Tamiya and AK Real Colors, but it worked fine.

    It is really humid and we have some severe storms moving in later, so I think I will stop for the day and pick it back up tomorrow. Cheers.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    Eric Berg said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    If you have any troubles or questions about Alclad II, ask away as I have been using them since the 90's. I have never had any problems with using them other than the skin oil thing I mentioned. However I do not like their black lacquer primer. It takes forever to dry but I discovered Alclad metal paints adhere much better to acrylic primers anyway. Alclad Klear Kotes are very good, by the way.

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Thanks, Eric (@eb801). I have heard good things about Alclad II, and I have several bottles that I haven't tried yet. I read an article recently where the author used semi-gloss black as a primer and had really good results. My models get a lot of rough handling in the final stages, so that will be part of the experiments. Cheers.

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    I had a little time to experiment, so I used the quickest of the combinations I wanted to try. I used Vallejo Hobby Paint Flat Black in a spray can, which is more of a semi-gloss when it dries. You can also buff it with a soft cloth and get a little more shine. I got a piece of plastic and cut some simulated panel lines in it. I wanted to see if these sprays would obscure the panel lines. I sprayed the Vallejo on the plastic and let it dry. I then sprayed Humbrol Metal Cote Polished Aluminum from a can. I like how it looks. The two layers of sprayed paint don't obscure the panel lines at all. You can also buff the Humbrol and get more shine. I sprayed some Humbrol Metal Cote Aluminum in one corner, but I don't like how it looks. I buffed a portion of the Polished Aluminum to see how much I could increase the shine. It worked pretty well, but perhaps I could use something besides a paper towel as a polishing tool. Tomorrow I want to try spraying some Aqua Gloss on it, as well as trying some Vallejo Metals and some Alclad II over the Humbrol. Cheers.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    The polished aluminum does look very nice, George @gblair
    When buffing with a paper towel, aren't you affraid of getting fibres all over. This is what happened when I tried this last time.

  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Great masking, my friend @gblair! You efficiently tackled the pre-cut masks missed spots.
    Great experimentation with the metallic coats, as well, for which I look forward to see your choice implemented on the model.

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb) and Spiros (@fiveten). More experiments today, hopefully along with some progress on the model. John: What fibers? Apparently my plane was used in an area that also had farms, so there are pieces of scale straw that blew onto the model. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. :o) Just kidding. If I do this on the actual model, I will use a soft cloth. I have a bunch of well-worn t-shirts that would work. I still wear t-shirts that I bought back in the 1970s. Sad, isn't it? I only wear them around the house, of course. My wife would do me in while I slept if I wore them in public.

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 7 months ago:

    @gblair, that's a great story which can be used if the final result of the paintwork is covered with fibers, George. Soft cloth will for sure give better results. Those old clothing isn't sad at all, I'm even still using my military clothing, which was back to the early 90's. Good quality back then.