Airfix 1/48 F-86F-40, Markings TBD

Started by George R Blair Jr · 138 · 5 months ago · . 1/48, Airfix, F-86F-40
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    Carl Smoot said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    Yep, I've found that using CA almost exclusively is more successful for me at eliminating ghost seams. The biggest downside is a slight increase in sanding difficulty, but if done promptly, before the CA gets fully hardened, it usually isn't too bad. I also do everything I can to minimize seam gaps and steps. I know these are done by you guys as well, and some models just defy these attempts no matter what you do.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): I have always had problems using CA as a filler. I generally mess up the sanding and end up with a mess. I eventually get the seam filled after the 3rd or 4th try. :o)

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    I have an interesting few days with the NMF. I had such good luck with the AK Xtreme paints on the last model, that I figured it would work the same for this one. Well, not so much.

    I was able to successfully mask over the Xtreme last time, so I made the decision to paint all of the NMF first, then mask and paint the non-metallic colors. I thought by doing it this way I would be applying the markings in the same manner as the real plane. The next bad decision I made was to paint the rear of the plane another shade of metal. I painted the forward part of the plane using Duraluminum, the same color used on the last one. I waited 24 hours, and then masked everything forward of the line where the fuselage parts behind the wings. I sprayed Polished Aluminum on the rear part of the fuselage. I waited about an hour, then removed the masking tape. There was a lot of tape residue, which I had removed on my last plane using alcohol. I waited 24 hours for the new paint to cure, then started to clean the residue. This time, the alcohol almost immediately started pulling up the metallic paint, especially the Polished Aluminum.

    About the same time I had made up my mind to repaint the affected areas, I noticed a phantom seam on the top of the nose. Perfect opportunity. I filled and sanded the nose and then repainted both colors. This time, I masked using Post-It Notes. The Post-It Notes left even more residue than the tape. As I was again cleaning the residue and preparing to repaint, I noticed the seam had surfaced again. Filled and sanded yet again, followed by repainting. This time I used note cards held in place by hand to do the masking. 3rd time is the charm, and both the seam and paint problems disappeared.

    After letting everything dry for another 24 hours, I plan to cover everything with a solid coat of clear gloss. Hopefully this will allow me to do the masking necessary to make the markings without damaging the NMF.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Carl Smoot said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    These are the problems I encountered with AK Extreme Metals when I did my F-80, George (@gblair). I had to clear coat with Tamiya clear gloss before I could do anything else. It's interesting that you suffered tape residue with Post It notes, that's the first time I've heard of that being a problem. After I clear coated, I didn't have any additional issues, but I let it dry for two full days before I did anything else.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    Great that everything eent finally well,y friend @gblair! Metalizers can give you at times issues. All well now.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    Great that everything eent finally well,y friend @gblair! Metalizers can give you at times issues. All well now.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks, Carl (@clipper) and Spiros (@fiveten). I finally used Post-Its because I had heard it was the thing to use on NMF. Perhaps these were just old and the glue was a decayed. I have to able to mask to get the rest of the markings done, so I hope the clear gloss does the trick.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    Glad that all looks great in the end, George @gblair
    I'm definitely keeping all your experiences in mind when applying the NMF on my Sabre.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb). This experience with the Xtreme paints has me rethinking my decision of what to paint when. I am sure you will find the Vallejo metals a great experience to use.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 months ago:

    This has been one of those weeks where real life consistently got in the way of my modeling life. It started with prepping for, and finally getting, a colonoscopy. It took a day to recover from that. The next day we had family friends from Georgia at the house. Then we had a massive series of severe thunderstorm roll through central Texas. We had several rounds of heavy rain. Finally, yesterday, the last round of evil storms passed through. The ground was already very wet when the storm hit. My neighbor's rain gauge had 4 inches in it after the storm, but it was the 60 mph winds that got us. The high winds pushed over 2 oaks in our yard, and then our back yard flooded. Well, this afternoon things were finally under control enough that Modeling could take place.

    All the delays gave me a chance to pivot on my build. After having so much good luck with AK Xtreme Metal paint, I decided to apply the NMF first, and then mask over it to apply the painted areas of the nose and the high vis markings. I had also previously decided to use two different colors of Xtreme Metals on the plane. The Duraluminum went on the forward part of the plane just fine, as did the polished Aluminum on the rear of the plane. As before, the masking tape left sticky glue on the plane, so I planned to remove the leftover glue with alcohol, which I had done without problem on the first plane. The glue came off the Duraluminum fine, just like the first plane, but when I cleaned the Aluminum, the alcohol removed both the glue and the paint. Apparently the Aluminum is more fragile than the Duraluminum. I repainted the rear of the plane, let it dry, then sprayed a layer of clear gloss lacquer to protect the metallic paint. Feeling now well-protected, I masked the panel for the gun ports, and painted it dark aluminum. When I carefully removed the tape, I was astounded to find that the tape had pulled up portions of the clear layer. I cleaned up the area and repainted the clear.

    It would be an under-statement to say that I was frustrated. Deeply regretting my decision not to paint the high vis markings before the NMF, I decided I would find a new paint scheme that would limit the need for masking. The paint schemes used on the QF-86F would gradually evolve during its career from a very simple design with minimal paint and markings to a design featuring high vis panels. I decided to paint the very first F-86F converted to a QF-86F. It features very simple markings. Although the markings are simple, there was a certain appeal to building the first of many F-86Fs that would be shot down by other planes. I managed to scrounge most of the decals I needed from my decal spares. There is a small ID number and aircraft type printed on the rear of the fuselage. I created these decals using clear decal paper. By creating my own, I was able to add the exact airframe number of the first aircraft. I added all of the decals today. I plan to let them dry for 24 hours, then spray on a protective clear coat. After some panel washes, I plan to add all of small bits and call it done. Yeah.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 6 months ago:

    NMFs are nasty, my friend @gblair. You can never trust them 🙂, but your remedial actions were great and the result is superb so far. Wise decision to go for simpler markings.
    Pity for your your two oaks, at least everything is over.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten). I am hoping to finish this model in the next couple of days, then move on to the Airfix F-86E/M. At least the trees didn't hit anything on the way down. Could have been worse.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 6 months ago:

    Some real good progress done, George @gblair
    I love the various panel shades you created, might try that on mine as well.
    Luckily the only damage you have are the oaks.

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    George R Blair Jr said 6 months ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb). Finally had some time to sit and work. I wanted to add some different shades to the panels, but I masked using a notecard cut with a 90 degree angle. The mask was easy to hold in a corner of a panel while spraying and no need to use tape to mask the panels.

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    Alfred van Paaschen said 6 months ago:

    Looking good, George!
    Post-It cards work wonderfully on not too curved surfaces.
    But I cannot stress enough that applying a protective layer is key before any masking of NMF surfaces. And the masking should be removed ASAP after painting.
    At least that’s my two cents worth from what I’ve learned by experience.