SNJ-3 Texan: 1/48 Modelcraft or Revell (Game time decision)

Started by George R Blair Jr · 232 · 7 months ago
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    John vd Biggelaar said 7 months, 1 week ago:

    Decals look great, George @gblair
    Looking forward to the weathering techniques you will use.
    This is something that I also still need to get experience in so I'm looking forward to your approach.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 7 months, 1 week ago:

    Looking awesome, my friend @gblair!

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    George R Blair Jr said 7 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb) and Spiros (@fiveten). This morning I painted the gear wells and landing gear, as well as attached the engine. When everything is dry, I plan to seal everything with clear flat and then let it dry for 24 hours. A cold front is supposed to go through today and take the humidity with it, so drying time may get better later.

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    George R Blair Jr said 7 months ago:

    I want to use this model as a platform to try some new weathering techniques. I used various paints and my airbrush to create some basic shading. I sprayed a layer of Tamiya Clear Gloss, which I let dry for 24 hours, then added the few decals on this model. I let the decals dry for 24 hours, then sealed everything with a layer of Tamiya Clear Flat. I let the clear flat dry for another 24 hours. This may seem like a lot of hurry up and wait, but I learned the hard way what happens when you start weathering before the clear layers are rock solid.

    I want to try at least two weathering techniques to see how far I can take things. First, I wanted to use artist's oils to try some new things. I have used oils to add stains and fluid leaks, but I wanted to try using them to actually adjust the colors and shading of the paint. I also wanted to try using some watercolor pencils to get some cool effects.

    Today is artist oil day. If you want to give this a try, here are some basic rules:

    1. A dry brush blends, a wet brush shapes.
    2. Use them smallest amount of paint that you can on the model.
    3. On the wings, blend front to back. On the fuselage, blend top to bottom.

    To get ready, I dug out three old brushes. A small one to place the paint on the model, and two larger, stiff brushes for blending. You don't want soft brushes to blend, but you don't want too stiff which might damage the finish of your model. Don't use your good brushes for this. This process is hard on brushes. You will need some thinner. I use Odorless Turpenoid, which is a thinner for artists, because it doesn't seem to react with the clear coat and it dries to a flat finish.

    I squeeze a little of each of the oil colors that I plan to use onto a piece of paper. Artist's oils are a little too wet for our use, so the paper tends to soak up a little of the oil in the paint before we use it. I use inexpensive oils that you can get at Hobby Lobby or Michaels. The colors depend on your model, but I used these for this model: Unbleached Titanium White, Naples Yellow Light, Manganese Blue, Prussian Blue, and Starship Filth (from 502 Abteilung). I also used a set of paints called 12 Shades of Grey (catchy, right?) These are sets of gray paints that are mixed with other colors: such as gray-blue, gray-brown, gray-green, and so on. I really like these because they are useful and subtle. I apply the paints in very small dots, or sometimes very thin lines along panels, etc. I let them dry for a few minutes before I start blending it. Using a dry brush, I start blending the paint. First, just a swipe along the area where I want the paint. Then I start blending the paint using a dry brush, in long fore and aft scrubs on the horizontal surfaces, and in round scrubs on vertical surfaces. Oil paints take forever to dry, so you can scrub and blend forever until you like what you have. Be careful, however, that you don't scrub so much that you damage the underlying surface. If you get your oil colors in places where you don't want them, use a soft brush, dipped in Turpenoid. to shape the paint on the model. Don't do this until you are through blending because scrubbing won't work once wet with Turpenoid. If you want to do more blending, you will need to let it dry completely before you attack it again. You can also mix the oil colors to obtain colors you need. For this model, I mixed my gray-blue with Starship Filth to get a nice, dark color for the cowling area.

    When I was done with everything, I used a soft brush damp with Turpenoid to blend the oils on my wings and horizontal tail. I moved front to back with the airflow, and softened the oil effect a little.

    That's about it. This is really fun and easy to do as long as you start with solid clear coat on your model. If you don't like the effect you get from the oils, you can use Turpenoid to either adjust the effect or remove the oils. Sometimes you can't completely remove all of the oils, but you can get rid of 98.5% of them.

    Tomorrow I want to try some effects using watercolor pencils. The oils need to be basically dry before using the watercolors. You know what they say about oil and water. We'll see if things are dry enough tomorrow. Cheers everyone.

    21 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Eric Berg said 7 months ago:

    Excellent tutorial, George @gblair. Do you give it one more clear coat before the watercolor pencils?

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    George R Blair Jr said 7 months ago:

    Hi, Eric (@eb801). I probably should give it a clear coat, but that means letting the oils dry for several days. I may try to do the watercolor pencils without a new protective layer. You can say " I told you so" if I mess it up. My impatience has cost me on other models. :o)

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    George R Blair Jr said 7 months ago:

    Quick update. I ran up during halftime of the Dallas game and removed the masking from the canopies. I need to clean up the glass a little, and repaint some ragged frames, but it is starting to look like a plane.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 7 months ago:

    Excellent weathering and overall progress, my friend @gblair! Thanks for the plethora of tips!

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    Eric Berg said 7 months ago:

    It’s looking terrific, @gblair!

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    Tom Cleaver said 7 months ago:

    You can be really proud of this when it's completed, @gblair.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 7 months ago:

    Very impressive weathering, George @gblair
    Thank you so much for sharing your approach, definitely going to make use of that.

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    George R Blair Jr said 7 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten), Eric (@eb801), Tom (@tcinla), and John (@johnb). I appreciate the kind comments. It is not in the big leagues yet, but not bad for an old guy. I am not sure there is really anyplace to use the watercolor weathering, and I don't want to add the weathering just for the sake of adding something. I may just spray the exhaust staining, do a couple of drips, add the small parts and sliding canopies, and call it done. Cheers everyone.

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    George R Blair Jr said 7 months ago:

    It wouldn't be one of my models if I didn't create some catastrophe near the end of the build. In this case, everything was done and I was looking toward taking some photos for Headlines. The last task was to add the tall antenna mast and then add the antenna wires. I thought there might be problems with the tall mast, but I used superglue to attach it so that there wouldn't be solvent to soften the attachment point. It worked perfectly. The antenna consisted of two wires, one from the mast to the tail and one from the mast to the right side of the cockpit. I always have trouble with antennas, but these went on perfectly. The very last task was to trim the extra stretchable line at the top of the mast. I got my finest scissors, and snip...both antenna lines popped off the mast. Drat! But I used stretchy line, so it was a matter of simply pulling the two lines into place and gluing them again. Well, the two lines wouldn't stick to the thick superglue I was using. OK, don't panic. I tried again, and then hit the location with accelerator. Still no stick. So, I opened up my thin superglue, dipped a microbrush in it, and then dabbed the thin superglue on the lines. Success! I let the joint dry for a while and then carefully trimmed the ends of the line. Everything was done.

    It was at this point that I noticed that a drop of the thin superglue had fallen off the microbrush and landed at the trailing edge of the right wing. Of course, it created a dome-shaped area of dry superglue. I used every colorful word in my vocabulary, then I got out my debonder. I added some to the top of the dried superglue and let it sit for about 30 seconds. Using a Q-tip I carefully lifted the superglue. It all came off cleanly, along with all of the paint on the wing where the drop had landed. My life passed in front of my eyes. The color on the wings consisted of several custom-mixed layers of paint, followed by several rounds of washes and oil colors. There was exactly zero chance of matching the paint and the weathering.

    I masked off the panel around the area and sprayed a new mix of paint. I kept adjusting the colors until I got something I could work with. I then started weathering with washes and oils. My goal here wasn't to match the previous colors, rather I hoped to create something that would look like a repainted panel. Not a perfect solution, but given the worn nature of the camo on my plane, I think it will be OK. Photos for Headlines later and I will call it done. I keep saying I want something simple next, but it never works out that way. I think either a F4U-4 as my last build for the Sullivan Group or a Hudson from a Dutch squadron in WW2. Thanks for all of the great comments and encouragement on this marathon build. Cheers

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Eric Berg said 7 months ago:

    Quite an endurance build you went through, George @gblair. Looking forward to your headline photos.

    I vote for a Hudson for your next Sullivan build. You don't see many of those built. What kit do you have? Classic Airframes?

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    George R Blair Jr said 7 months ago:

    Thanks, Eric (@eb801). The Hudson wouldn't be for the Sullivan group. I really like Hudsons, and Venturas. I always thought they were the same plane, but it turns out they aren't. I have 3 1/72 Hudsons, one from Revell, one from Italeri, and one from MPM. Both the Revell and the Italeri are from MPM molds, which first released the kit in 2006. My MPM kit is their 2010 version, which was an A-29/PBO-1. I found a photo of a Hudson in a Dutch squadron flying out of England during the war. They have a small Dutch insignia (an orange triangle outlined in black) on the nose, similar in size to the small Polish insignia carried on Spitfires and Hudsons in Polish squadrons during the war. I plan to take a day or two break after this Texan and let my energy recharge.