1/32 HPH F7F-3P Tigercat crossing the line !

Started by Michael Ezat · 73 · 3 years ago
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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Michael (@faraomike), that is a very intense pre-shade, and quite in hand with your attention to detail in this build. I shall be looking forward to next year - happy new year!

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Michael, @faraomike
    I just finished getting caught up on this magnificent build underway here... and I am VERY impressed with what you have posted. The engines look so realistic, that they could start running at any time. What did you use for the ignition leads (or spark plug wires as they are sometimes called) ? Whatever it is, it's the best representation I have ever seen done before.

    Also the inside of the nacelles looks great too, with the various pipes and wiring installed. The way you have it painted looks wonderful as well. I'm sorry to hear that you had such a hard time with figuring out the engine mounts, but it looks like you have succeeded there too.

    Now you have the airframe assembled and the pre shading is done, I'll bet you are getting excited with how it's progressing ... It looks very good too.

    Thanks for taking the time to post this update for us. I hope that you have a wonderful holiday season and a Happy New Year too.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Let me echo above gents comments, Michael @faraomike.
    Your looks are Spectacular.
    Happy New Year to you and all your loved ones, my friend!

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    Michael Ezat said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Louis @lgardner , thank you for your kindly comments . The ignition leads are just braided lines from ANYZ (www.anyz.io) , a usefull product that helps alot in such conditions .
    Have a nice holiday season my friend .

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    Michael Ezat said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Spiros @fiveten , your comments are always welcomed , thank you once more .
    Happy New Year "patriotaki" !

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    Michael Ezat said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Good morning my friends and happy new year !

    This is a small update , just to start new year asap with modelling joy .

    As you may see , after almost three days I have finished the main painting work (and eliminates my masking tapes inventory) .

    I believe my goal to presend a not monotonous but at the same time not damaged blue painting bird has achieved , so now I continue with the decals .

    HPH provides a set of wet transfer decals from HGW . It looks great , with clear , sharp registering and accurate colors .

    If works well , will be just like paintings , not glued . This is my first time with this type of decals , and I'm in a hurry to use them .

    So , that's for now , I am going to play with my toy , will be back soon I hope .

    Your comments , as always are very welcommed .

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Such a lot of variation in the color - very nice Michael (@faraomike). Indeed it is the only way to go, starting the new year with lots of modeling!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Looking great, Michael @faraomike!
    Love the tone variations!
    Looking forward toyur decals.
    Happy New Year, πατριωτάκι!

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    Michael Ezat said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Disaster !
    The wet transfers kills my model ! Τhe result was so poor that out of my frustration I did not take a single photo .
    I explain : following the official instructions from HGW ( https://youtu.be/T6xKo9a5o6U ) I placed the decals as described , you know , decal setting solution (Gunze) , good drying from excess water with soft paper etc .
    Leave them for 10-12 hours (instructions talks about 6-8 hours and removes the protective film .
    There the problems starting : with the film , comes up alot of the decals , leaving empty areas like colour peeling .
    And not only this . In many spots , comes up the color under the decals , leaving areas of nude resin !
    Continued with cleanning the area around the decals with soft wet paper , I leave them overnight to full dry and at the same time I leave 2 decals without removing the protective film .
    Next day , I start removing the film from the 2 decals : one goes perfect and one comes (the film) in pieces , but luckilly the decal was OK .
    Doing this , I notice around all the decals a very thin (almost invissible) layer of something like...film .
    Remember : Last night , I have already clean the decals with wet paper .
    Very carefully I start taking of this film toghether with some decal more !
    Ιn my despair I try to paint over the damaged areas , trying to mask without touching anything white .
    Offcourse this is impossible and many pieces of the decals comes up with any type of masking tape I try .
    Finally , I start painting . What a mess ! Many pieces of decals goes away with the air of my airbrush .
    I hit them with an Iwata HP-C @25 psi and with an Iwata NEO @ 12-15 psi but the problem still .
    At the end I have a model with something like wethered insignia and codes .
    My last chance was to cover everything with gloss varnish .
    Ha ! The varnishes just refuse to stay on . The Gauzy agent , stays on like big off-white drops . Alclad Aqua gloss just runs and canot stay not even on flat surfaces . And finally , the Microscale gloss , looks like shudders with the first layer , and tries to stay on with the secong layer .
    I noticed this strange behavior occurs on all surfaces , and not only on the decals and as a result I suspect that the culprit for what happened is the color (AK Real Colors) and not the decals .
    After all , I take some paper with isopropyl alcohol and rubs EVERYTHING (varnishes , colours AND decals) from the model !
    That's it , the Tigercat is now nude from any color and/or decal .
    I will start soon painting again (may I try a different approach) but my really problem are the code letters and the mission markings as well as the Marines emblems on the nose .
    If any of you know where can I find a good set of 45 degrees US code letters (50'' , 40'' , 30'' and so) and some insignia (stars and bars 1947 - pressend) let's give me a message .
    Or , if any of you have a vinyl cutter and can make a set , I will be very happy to buy from him .
    I will send a message to HPH too , asking for a decals sheet replacement . Hope he can provide one in a reasonable price .
    So , that's for now , I will start again the painting and on the road I will see what will do with the decoration .
    Until have news , have a nice afternoon .

    PS Anybody knows the dimensions of the insignia , code letters & numbers etc for the airplanes of this
    period (1953)? I fund 30-40-50 inches and more , but still not sure about the insignia and letters of
    the Tigercat .

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    John Healy said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Sorry to hear about your decal disaster, Michael. Try Hannants. They are my go to shop for decals. They have an unbelievable inventory.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Michael,
    I am very sorry to hear about this. I recently experienced a similar situation where I had to completely strip off all of the paint on my Panther jet build. Unfortunately the filler material came out when the paint was removed. This is another reason I started using liquefied styrene as a filler in place of putty.

    As far as the sizes that were used on the Tigercat, I'll have to do some research on that. I don't know offhand what is correct and I wouldn't want to lead you the wrong direction. By chance did you happen to scan the original decal set before using them ? If so it's possible you could use this as a pattern to make some masks ?

    I use decals made by a company called Fantasy Printshop. They offer these 45 degree letters and numbers in various sizes and scales. They also are available in different colors, like, white, yellow, black and red...I used these for my NAS Jacksonville F4U, and on a NAS Daytona Beach F6F Hellcat. Here's a few pictures of the ones I used. The steel ruler shows you the size reference.


    On some sets, various sizes are included on each set, so you need to watch out when you place your order not to get the wrong ones.



    When it came to my NAS Jacksonville Corsair, I had to make a set of masks for the larger "485". I used a steel ruler, a brand new blade, and some tape. It worked out great ! I think you can do it too.


    Here's a link to my Corsair journal. Scroll down towards the bottom and that's where the information is shown in more detail.

    https://imodeler.com/groups/work-in-progress-aircraft/forum/topic/1-48-tamiya-f4u-1-birdcage-corsairs/?topic_page=5&num=15

    As far as your previous question about what color was used under the Dark Sea Blue by Grumman... I stumbled across it a few days ago, but by then it was too late as you had already painted your plane.

    I have some good friends who restore WW2 aircraft. They recently finished up a 'survivor" F6F Hellcat that was original and untouched in many areas. They carefully documented the colors they found as it was disassembled. They found a lot of Grumman Gray on a lot of surfaces, including on the exterior of the plane. So when they painted it after the metal work was done, they also painted it Grumman Gray before the Dark Sea Blue was applied.

    My friends used a computerized camera to scan the original colors they found, so they could return the Hellcat to as close as possible with the correct colors.

    Here's a picture of the Hellcat before painting it blue.


    I don't know for sure if the Tigercat was painted the same way... but chances are it was.
    Hope this helps...

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    What a bummer Michael. I do understand why you did not take any pictures!

    As we are in a sort of limbo here i Europe regarding trade with Hannants, I really do not know where to source decals, but perhaps excito or modellbau-koenig?

    It just so happens that I bought a cutting machine today, and expect the kind mailman to bring it to me any day soon. If you can find a file that has the correct size, I shall be very happy to use your build as an experiment, but of course I can not promise any useable results - I have to learn how to use it first 😉

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Mike @faraomike, pity about your mishap! Well, nothing is unfixable!

    About the decals, why don't you also check the website of our "local" LM decals? A good friend of mine is a regular user of them; he told me that, if you provide them with sufficient info, they can print anything for you. Their quality is tops and their prices on the cheap side. Worth a try and maybe a call!

    Good luck with your remedial actions!

    Looking forward to this beautiful and big Tigercat coming along soon!

    And I am not the only one... 🙂

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    Michael Ezat said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Louis @lgardner , you are always so deep in details and so helpful !

    Your tutorial is a good lesson about masking and your advise about primer on Grummans is a big value .

    As you may undertand , my problem is not the insignia or the numbers/letters etc but the small mission markings and the Marines insignia on the nose .

    Offcourse is early now to worry for that , until be ready for painting again , a solution will found .

    At the very end , I can choose a different airplane with most simple decoration .

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    Michael Ezat said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Erik @airbum , a vinyl cutter may is one of my next buys , is a machine that can free your hands in many cases like now .
    If I don't find a total solution , may I think seriously your kindly offer .
    Thank you very much .