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F-86F-30 Lt. Jim Thompson

Started by Colin Gomez · 27 ≡ · ↻ 4 years ago

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Colin Gomez said 4 years, 4 months ago:

Just getting organized on my build for this forum. I will finish Hasegawa's F-86F-30 in 1/48th as the a/c of Lt Jim Thompson - "The Huff". The old Microscale decal sheet identifies this as an F-86 E but the Squadron Book MiG Alley identifies the photo of the Huff as an F-86F with what look to be the same codes, etc. Anyway, assuming that is accurate, I hope this will be a reasonably quick and authentic build. As seen in the photo, I have both the Eduard Zoom set and a larger Eduard set for the cockpit. I may go for the Zoom to simplify things.

So far I have eliminated the seam in the intake trunk with the liquid glue squeeze method. No filler required as the seam is eliminated in sanding.

One upper wing half has a bit of a warp. I may work this out by bending it into shape under very hot water. It may straighten out when attached to the lower wing , though, so that may be unnecessary.

So, this will partly be a project to test the Vallejo Metal Color metalizers. My first test with their black Primer was terrible - very thick and pebbly. I used it unthinned and will try again thinning with water. Does anyone have any experience with these paints? I am using them because they are theoretically non-toxic. I will also use them on the Shiden Kai undersides over in the EOJ Group, if they work out.
Colin Gomez said 4 years, 4 months ago:

Actually just found that I have the Vallejo Airbrush Thinner as well. Funny when you have accumulated so much stuff you forget what you have on hand. I may use this instead of water. Once again, thoughts on this and advice welcome.
Louis Gardner said 4 years, 4 months ago:

This looks like a very cool subject to build... I have this very same 1/48 scale Hasegawa F-86 kit in the stash. My wife bought it and a Trumpeter MiG-15 and some WNW kits last year as my Christmas present.

I usually paint my planes with enamels, so my experience is almost nil when it comes to offering you any tips with acrylics.
Jeremy Millan said 4 years, 4 months ago:

I’ll be following this build. Great choice. Love the F-86 and I been wanting to build Hasegawa’s version. I build the academy version and it wasn’t bad but I heard this one is better.

You can’t go wrong with Badger’s acrylic primer stynylrez. It has nice leveling properties and you don’t have to thin it. I mainly use that and mr surfacer 1500 with leveling thinner. It’s lacquer though.
Chuck A. Villanueva said 4 years, 4 months ago:
Funny Guys I also have this very kit in the stash as well, but saving it for a future project. But I can say I have used that same primer on a P-47N I am just about to lay the NMF finish using the Vallejo metallics this weekend. The finish is not totally flat, more of a satin finish, it has been resilient to masking so far and the finish is smooth no orange peel. So Colin you should be good to go. This is my 2nd go around with Vallejo. My first attempt was a Tamiya of all things a Korean War F-51 Mustang. The F-86 Sabre is arguably the aircraft most significant in the Korean War. Think Sabre, think Korea and MiG-15's. Excellent choice.
7 attached images. Click to enlarge.
1. Vallejo Primer Surface Black base for the bare metal finish
1. Finish is smooth, 70% paint 30% thinner
1. Resistant to masking so far,
1. So far the black has been resilient to masking
Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 4 months ago:

Hi Colin!
That's a great choice! "The Huff" will always be a head turner. Add those nice extras to improve your build, and "Colin Gomez" skills and a masterpice is arising
"Funny when you have accumulated so much stuff you forget what you have on hand" : ten years ago I discovered by accident I had two same 109 kits...
"The Huff " looks great so far!
Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 4 months ago:

@coling I have to say that I had no great luck with Valejo (or any other acrylics for that matter) in an airbrush. I do think it has to do with me using too low pressure and fine needles and perhaps too thick paint. I have just ordered some retarder, and will re-visit the process, but I shall keep en eye on your progress here and learn. Not a lot of help from me I'm afraid, but that was my pennies worth for now. I'm tuned in.
Wolfgang Rusch said 4 years, 4 months ago:

Colin @coling, great coice. Hase´s F-86 as well as the iconic Huff !
Nonetheless I suggest you check the Huff´s artwork on your aged Microscale sheet. Pictures of the plane reveal that the dragon´s 'prongs' were red, actually. The right side of the plane sports a much different artwork, too.
1 attached image. Click to enlarge.
Andrew H said 4 years, 4 months ago:

I've had not so great luck with vallejo primer in the past, getting a grainy texture you've described. More recently, I've been having great luck with getting smooth gloss on smaller parts by spraying higher pressures (>30psi) in my HP-CS. Unthinned it sprays fine for me, but layer it up very finely. First pass should look like it's just tinting the plastic, second pass should be thin coverage, and then go for the wet coat. I plan to do my T-6 airframe this way, with personal confidence. As always, mileage may very.
Colin Gomez said 4 years, 4 months ago:

Thanks guys for your comments and very helpful feedback on Vallejo Metal Colors. I will do some experiments on the drop tanks for the Sabre first and maybe do a test coat on a small unpainted aircraft model - I think I have an Airfix 1/72 MiG-15 somewhere.. I have found the cured Surface Primer is fairly easily removed with soap and water so nothing will be irreversible. Photos to come.

Thanks for the heads up on the decals, Wolfgang. I hadn't noticed the color contrast problem for the dragon's spines on the Microscale sheet. I see they also failed to do the beard and eyebrows in orange. Hmmm. Well, I was thinking of cutting up the decal a bit anyway to make it easier to apply. By applying a decal in sections you can sometimes avoid bits getting folded up or distorted when slid into position. I will probably scan or photocopy the whole dragon to make a template, trim off the green spines of the decal, cut each new spine out from a large red decal (like a 1/24th roundel) and then apply the spines one by one to the back of the dragon, once it is already on the model. I will number them to avoid mistakes. I may not fix the beard but I could superimpose a fix by a similar method.
Wolfgang Rusch said 4 years, 4 months ago:

@coling, you might consider asking fellow modelers for spare decals from the Academy boxing or left overs from the Cutting Edge decals sheet, too. As far as I know, the CE sheet includes the Huff´s artwork 2x, so maybe you´ve luck.
Colin Gomez said 4 years, 4 months ago:

Thanks for that suggestion, Wolfgang. I see from a little bit of Internet research that you are right about the Cutting Edge sheet.

Since the dragon does appear twice, it might be possible that someone has one to spare. Certainly, there is nothing affordable on Ebay as an alternative.
Wolfgang Rusch said 4 years, 4 months ago:

It isn´t only the dragon but the 'Bill´s Baby' artwork on the starboard side.
The Academy kit includes very good decals printed by Cartograf. Unfortunately, this limited boxing became very rare, too, but is probably still easier to find.
Colin Gomez said 4 years, 4 months ago:

I have fixed the warp on the port wing on the F-86 and assembled upper and lower wing halves. The rest is taped together to test the fit of major components and it looks very precise so far. I want to have zero filler in this to have the smoothest possible finish for the BMF. Still doing surgery on the cockpit to fit the Eduard set.

Three pics show Vallejo surface primer applied at about 60-40 primer to thinner. I did the wing tanks plus the wing of an 1/72 Airfix MiG- 15 to test the metalizer.

Final pic shows additional Primer on the fuselage half and wing of an Otaki Hellcat I may build some day. For now, I will use the demi-Hellcat to test metalizer under a camo coat with the salt method for weathering. This probably belongs in my EOJ build since it is to test chipping/weathering to do for my Shiden Kai, but here it is anyway.

I am waiting for some spare decals in the mail from a kind fellow modeler (thanks, Gil) - these will allow me to do an accurate dragon for The Huff more easily. Starting to work on a companion build of the Trumpeter Mig-15 in the meantime (see other post)
Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 4 months ago:

That's geat progress Colin @coling!
Delaying due to having to wait for the decals is OK, since we now have your Mig-15 to follow!

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Korea : The Forgotten War………..

F-86F-30 Lt. Jim Thompson