1/48 Tamiya J2M3

Started by Woody Kubacki · 7 · 3 years ago
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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Last of the "practice" builds. I decided that for each build I would try something new to challenge myself and make up for lost time (the last 15 years). For this build I would continue to improve my chipping and masking skills. I wasn't too impressed with my attempts to preshade, especially with my A6M3, so I decided to try preshading.

    Like with all builds, it all starts in the cockpit. I didn't like the kit radio so I scratchbuilt a new one copying one I saw online. Now this wasn't a real radio I copied, it was from an Eduard aftermarket set, so I don't know if it's that accurate, but it definitely is more interesting than the kit part. I had a bit of an incident with the IP decal, which tore, so I ordered and Eduard PE set to replace it.

    Belts were added and the interior was painted AK RC306

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    I had a bit of a fit issue with there being a step at the wingroots and at the same time the lower wing to fuselage joint was too low (wing side). After much thought I realized that if I taped up the wings it would eliminate the lower wing fit issue entirely and the wing root issue mostly. I had to sand the wing root a bit but in the end I got a joint that I was happy with.

    Exhaust stubs were drilled out, Pitot created using brass tube, and the oil cooler was modified to look more like the real thing

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Next I painted the IFF bands and AK Xtreme Metal Aluminum and then Mr Surfacer 1500 black. Take heed and don't do this. The aluminum should have been painted overtop of the primer and it was nearly impossible to chip the paint afterwards (hairspray chipping), in addition to waiting too long to chip the paint.

    I blackbased freehand with a sky blue but stuck to the panels/panel lines, which gave me the pre-shading effect I was trying to avoid. No matter, it was great practice with the new-to-me air brush (bye bye Badger 150, hello Iwata HP-C plus) with respect to airbrush control and properly thinning paints.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    I then sprayed a thin blend coat of AK RC305 D2 (about 4:1 MLT thinner to paint) and AK RC 303 J3 SP, but this time I toned down it down with some AK RC302 (about 5 parts 303 to 2 parts 302). You can see how much lighter it is in comparison to the A6M5. I will adjust this a bit more in future builds. The variation in tones in the dark green is visible, but only just. I probably overdid the top blend coat, spraying it on too thick.

    9 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Finally come the hinomaru. I ditched the Tamiya tape and bought a 6' roll of Oramask 813 for $6. It isn't too sticky and the film is malleable enough conform to curves and it is transparent so tracing a pattern is very easy. I sprayed a highly thinned (about 80/20) coat of off white at low psi, shooting perpendicular to the mask, and then sprayed a custom mixture for the red.

    Gear bays were painted aluminum and final odds and ends were painted and glued on. Weathering was done with Tamiya panel liners and my first attempt at oils. I definitely needed to refine my oil work but it was a start.

    16 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    This is a spoptless build, Woody @wkubacki!
    The painted on insignia look amazing!

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    Woody Kubacki said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Yes, they really do look better than the old kit decals, that's for sure. I purchased Mr Color 327 and then C385 for the red marking colour in lieu of the paint mix that I used in this build. I would like to paint all my markings, but sometimes the tactical numbers are just too small to cut out by hand and so I just use the kit decals. Although a Silhouette would be nice to get...