Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai (George) 1/32

Started by Colin Gomez · 100 · 3 years ago
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    George Williams said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Wow, I’m really impressed with your care to get that perfect finish, I’m sure the finished model will repay all your hard work.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Colin, @coling
    This is some very nice work you have done here ! All that masking is paying off nicely... 🙂
    As far as the yellow fuselage stripes, they do look better as you have them painted now.

    As far as the number on the fuselage Hinomaru, I still believe they were a shade of yellow. They could have been a water based paint, I'm not sure though. The way they look in the two pictures I posted last, is an effect of the sunlight and how the light reflected off the different angles on the fuselage and vertical fin. It is more pronounced on the fuselage, because it is rounded, than it is on the vertical fin and rudder... because they are more in line with the sun at the time this picture was taken and are somewhat in the shade.

    I have seen numerous artists illustrations that were not done properly. Some have used the wrong colors when they painted them. The same thing goes with decals. After time, people begin to think the illustrations are correct, when they are not always that way. Here again we often think that a decal manufacturer does their homework and gets it right... sadly that's not always true either.

    It's best to find a photo of the plane and try to make an "educated best guess" and go from there if you are striving for accuracy. The color picture I posted was one I found a while ago... I don't "think" it has been colorized, but anything is possible. In that picture the number on the fuselage Hinomaru is yellow.

    In the end however, it is your model and your build. Do what makes you happy and let the naysayers do what they do best, and that is a lot of talking... Hardly do we ever see "that crowd" build anything, as they are way too busy nit picking someone else's work.

    I'm sure whatever color you decide to paint yours in will be just fine. You are knocking this one out of the park !

    and I can't wait to see the next set of pictures... Stay safe my friend.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Colin (@coling), that is an awesome painting session! If I may add to the discussion on the color, the latest b/w picture with the number 15 inserted in the hino looks brighter than yellow to me. But no matter what, as our friend Louis (@lgardner) points out, your build, you decide. period.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Thank you, George, Spiros, George, Louis and Erik. Great to have your feedback and suggestions! I will be leaving the hino numbers and tail codes until after the clear coat. That will give me time to think things through and check references and photos. One interesting fact about the hino numbers is that surviving pilots of the squadron did not remember them at all and even insisted that they had never existed (in spite of photographic evidence). According to researchers for the Osprey book, they were applied for training purposes/aircraft ID and either wore off or were removed during combat operations. A couple of photos I have show Kanno's plane with no hino number at all. So, I guess a third option is to not have the numbers. I think I want them though because they look interesting and distinctive. We'll see.

    Here is a tiny update to show the fix I did to the starboard hino. I created a new mask cut extra carefully with the circle cutter and positioned it over the slightly lopsided marking. The perfect circle revealed the slight distortion in the white surround - which stuck out around the edge of the mask. The fact that the Tamiya tape mask was also a bit translucent helped to make sure that it would look good all around after respraying. The pics show before and after the fix.

    Very subtle, I know, maybe half a millimeter of difference. Even so, I am glad I got it done.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    At the risk of boring you with similar views of the same model, I am posting my latest progress. Today, I finally laid on the Tamiya gloss coat necessary for the oil wash stage.

    I hesitated for awhile because each major painting session risks more lint and cat hair drifting onto the surface. Running a heppa filter air cleaner in the room before airbrushing seems to have paid off as the surface stayed quite clean. I also tried to avoid the "orange peel" look gloss coats are prone to by thinning carefully and using retarder. I think it came out quite smooth. To the extent that it is not glassy smooth in some places, it certainly isn't rough enough to cover up any detail like riveting. What do you think? Oil wash to highlight details next. More pics soon. Happy modeling!

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    George Williams said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Hi Colin (@coling) your attention to detail makes my meagre efforts pale into insignificance, but I think you're right about the gloss coat, it definitely makes the colours appear that bit richer. Also, adding the numbers, whatever colour you eventually go for, will add that little bit of extra interest.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Colin (@coling), the pre-shading looks very nice after the last coating. And do not hesitate to upload pictures - any small progress will be looked at with pleasure. Great to follow the small steps and your explanations. Keep on keeping on.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Looking great, Colin @coling!
    Yep, the clear coat has saturated things really nicely and the oil pin wash will bring nicely on the rivet detail. I think it will all look perfectly balanced, under the final mattish coat.
    As for progress pics, please post them, as often as possible: it's really nice to follow all your little steps; as if we are building the model by ourselves!

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Thanks for your feedback, guys. I am glad the details are worth checking out. Today I am at the oil wash stage, having given the clear coat 48 hours to dry. It's hard to believe from the pics but I have spent about four hours doing the oil pin wash. It is quite a delicate operation being careful not to overdo it. I am using Windsor and Newton oils in a mixture of Black and Van Dyke Brown. I have three different tones mixed for different sections. The hard thing about this stage is trying to judge how it will look after the final semi-matt coat. Over the gloss everything is too subtle to see clearly. It is also a really dull cloudy day, so not great for photography even with maximum artificial light. It will jump out more later.

    So, as you can see, the pics barely pic up the change but I am pretty confident the riveting will be well enough highlighted for my taste. You can at least see some of the panel line highlighting now.

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    George Henderson said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Looks great. My .02¢ about the number colour; looks white to me compared to the tail numbers. Again...looking at and translating B&W photos is a minefield

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Looking great after the operation "oil", Colin @coling!
    The riveting looks more solid, now, surely will look "right" after the final coat!

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Thanks, George. I concur about the color of the numbers. Just in case, however, I have gone for a decal option, so I could rip off the numbers later and replace them with yellow ones if need be. See below.

    Thanks, Spiros for the confirmation on the oil wash effect. When I spend all day working on something, I can't really see it clearly anymore. Good to have affirmative feedback.

    I have put in a full day today decaling. I considered doing more stencil creation and airbrushing for the tail and hino numbers but I found I just couldn't work up the energy. I also dreaded more leakage and remedial paintwork. Then I had an idea. Instead of cutting a stencil for the tail numbers, I could take the same amount of care with better results by trimming off ALL of the carrier film on the kit decals numbers The resultant decals don't look like decals because there is nothing to silver. Here's how I did it. I punched out the round parts of the numbers "3" and "5" using a leather punch.

    I trimmed off all the straight edges with small scissors or an exacto blade and steel rule. The rounded outer edges were trimmed with curved scissors (I think they are made for nail trimming). Each number was individually applied with tweezers so I had to do some careful measuring and handling with tweezers to line them up. Good thing Hasegawa decals are nice and tough and resist tearing. The results speak for themselves. I am very happy with the look and with the amount of control I had over the whole process. Of course it took time and patience to cut such tiny numbers out cleanly but a good visor, sharp scissors and Max Richter on the computer speakers made the operation quite relaxing. The stencils and especially the super delicate red line decal for the flaps took some time as well but less concentration. Hope you like the results.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Colin, @coling
    Oh my goodness ! What a spectacular result you ended up with... It was worth all of the time and effort you spent on the cutting and trimming work.

    This has to be the best decal work I have ever seen. If I didn't know better, I would have thought these were sprayed on using paint... It's THAT good ! 🙂

    George, @blackadder57
    You are absolutely correct about looking at black and white photos and trying to make an educated guess. I have had this picture stored on my computer for a long time now.


    It could have been colorized, but I'm not sure if it was or not. I found it before it became popular to colorize pictures, but that doesn't mean it has not been... you just never really know.

    I also have had this black and white photo of the same plane on the ground. Click on the photo and it should make it larger than just how it looks in the post. You can see the details a little better when you do.


    To me the #15 on the fuselage hinomaru looks to be a bit darker in shade than the white ring surrounding the insignia. Granted it isn't as dark as the numbers on the vertical fin and rudder, but that could be due to the angle of the sun too. It could also be my computer monitor.

    As a second option, take a closer look at the last plane in the group. It has a number that looks like a 38 (or it could be 88), and it is also inside the fuselage Hinomaru. It definitely looks darker than the white surround. It is just visible behind the rudder of second plane, which is tail number 343-37.

    It's really hard to know with 100 percent certainty, and it's probably also something we will never know for sure.

    To be perfectly honest, with the markings looking as nice as they do right now... I wouldn't change a thing.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Thanks for your comments, Louis. I am happy you like the decaling result. I do definitely value your insight on the hino numbers. If I may make a brief observation about the colorized photo, it actually looks retouched to me. Notice how each of the aircraft in the formation lines up with the camera in a way identical to the largest aircraft. Look especially at the tail section and also the hunched over position of the pilot with the canopy open. All the aircraft also have the same wear pattern with paint missing at the wing root. I think someone took one image and copied it to make two "other" aircraft, simply changing details like the image size, the tail numbers and the stripes. In fact, I think the main image may be the one of Kanno's plane as parked with the landing gear photo-shopped out (again, check out the tail section). Anyway, this doesn't have any real relevance to your point about the colors. It's just that I have my doubts that this one photo is an authentic wartime color picture. As I noted in today's posting, I have reserved the option of changing the hino numbers later by having them as decals. Just a quick swipe with scotch tape and I could replace them, given convincing evidence they should be yellow. Thanks again for your feedback. Always great to hear from you. Stay safe and happy modeling.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    I say, I think you are right Colin. That is some good checking you made on the colorphoto. It is not at all realistic that the elevatorposition is deflected to that degree in flight, at least not on all planes at the same time.

    That aside, it is some great looking decals you made there - the extra work you put into them is worth the effort. Well done!