Lis, this YouTube video is in Spanish with subtitles (read fast!), but it is shorter and covers more topics than most other videos. It is, however, a Vallejo video, so not unbiased:

I think this will answer your questions, but if not, YouTube will list several other reviews and how-tos.

I use Vallejo and other acrylics because my preferred workspace is inside our house, and I don't want to breathe volatiles or stink up the house. On the other hand, if you want a metallic finish that will stand up to lots of weathering and masking and don't care about those concerns, then use an aluminum dope (no primer needed) like the ones for flying models.

One thing I forgot to mention before about those bottles with snap tops: always turn the spout side away from you and away from the model when you snap it shut, as it will occasionally launch splatters of paint. This is true of all similar bottles, like those from Badger and Mission Models.

Work in progress. It's my very first overall silver (aluminium) painting. I used Vallejo Aluminium colour from Metal Color. It turned out acceptable, but because the model itself is not perfect, I am wondering whether to make it in a version with a green top surface, because the silver color shows absolutely all the imperfections of the model.

4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

If I can conclude that the painting is acceptable (which is very rare about my own work) then the joining of wings and fuselage is below expectations (with the rest in many mid-range models) - the place of this rounding on the wings and the spot after the ladning-light. All in all, this headlight irritates me the most. I have no idea why the manufacturer foresaw something that is not in the original and even on the box art the reflector is not included. Perhaps doing a dark green painting would be a way to practice chewing with the Modeler's Word range. The problem is that I would have to repaint the propeller spnner on silver (aluminium). Red Brown propeller colour I like the best in Japan planes.

One more correction...

3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

I'm a little late to the conversation about metallic paints, but I'd like to chime in with my experience. I initially started using AK Xtreme Metal paints , and while they went on nicely, they did not hold up too well to to masking (lots of metallic pigments got pulled up with the tape) or to handling. Another down side was that they are enamels and would require a clear coat if I were to use Tamiya Panel liner or oils for weathering. I'm not a big fan of clear coats because I like to keep the amount of layers of paint on my model to a minimum. I think the only time I use them is to get a more matte surface prior to oils and sealing/sanding thick Tamiya decals.

I switched over to Mr. Color Super Metallics 2 line and have not looked back. The paints are better in every way. Durable, high shine, spray very nicely, especially with Mr Hobby Rapid Thinner. I see that you have achieved very good results with Vallejo, so you probably don't need Mr Color SM, but if you are ever in the market for new paints, I would highly recommend the Super Metallics (knowing also that you use Lacquer paints, which some people don't like using).

@wkubacki I use usually Gunze Paint C or H. But, as you wrote silver pulled up with tape, so I try with Vallejo metal color. Don't try super metalic color yet. Mr color (Gunze) I have to buy via e-shops. My local hobby shop has Vallejo and Tamiya (but I bother them to widen the offer). I usually gave coat of clear X-35 from Tamyia before setting decals, an before makinng some weathering. And finally before end of all works. Summary I take clear three times.

@lis Are you thinning X-35 with MLT or X-20A? Any Tamiya Acrylic paint can be thinned with Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner (or the Tamiya Lacquer thinner (yellow or orange cap, orange cap is better as it has retarder) and it produces really nice results. Apologies if you know all of this.

PS, if you were to get one or two Super Metallics, I'd suggest SM201 and SM206.

Cheers

After removing the masking tapes. Unfortunately, there are some imperfections on the tail in the ailerons. Unfortunately, now it only remains to mask them with weathering

1 attached image. Click to enlarge.