Sorry for not answering @editor: mostly ruler! But it works quite well freehand as well, especially if you have decided where to go before starting... I think that freehanding a whole wing for example would end up in a mess of planless crisscrossing 🙂 !

Tonight's update:

Interior finally painted! My usual strategy: even if it isn't detailed, it should LOOK detailed!

And finally our poor cousin, the OTHER fuselage half!

Regards

Magnus

Thanks Simon! London is always super, I have been there a lot in the 1990s but this was the first time with my kids!

Regards

Magnus

Looks like there's plenty of detail in there to me! Try building old Airfix 1/72 for no/little detail. The Ki-100 is looking great to me Magnus, keep up the good work.

Nice Magnus, nice. Thinking out side the box.

Sorry for the delay but I have been moving my photo library (almost 1 Tb worth of photos from twelve years of digital photography) and I didn't want to mess around before everything was up and running again!

That wing leading edge and wing root joint was just a minor problem. Milliput made my day (once again!)!

Stabilizers ready for attachment. Another part that needed a bit of adjustment to fit!

Nose intake dressed up using some left-over PE. I made a cut using a razor saw almost through the part, slid the PE in place, soaked the edges using CA glue and trimmed the excess and sanded smooth. Easy-peasy!

Composite image of engine showing it before and after detail painting. If using silver and copper pencils is allowed to be called "painting"... An easy trick that I will try to use more in the future!

And finally the model with the intake installed!

Oh, I almost forgot! Rear part of canopy has been installed, and it reminds me why I utterly dislike vacform canopies. They are hard to glue (no, it doesn't work with white glue, it simply doesn't bite good enough and epoxy is all rubbery and impossible to sand afterwards and the bloody CA fogs the plastic and isn't really that strong even if it sounds like that) and difficult to sand and polish. This one was finally installed using Humbrol Clearfix (the least bad of them all: less weak than white glue and bites better into the plastic, not as rubbery as the epoxy and not as generally abominable (never thought I would need that word) as CA glue) with the remaining crevices filled using CA (couldn't stay away from that stuff anyway...). In short: vacform canopies don't pull my strudel. Not at all...

Regards

Magnus

You confirm my feelings about vac canopies. The only way I even found to make the vac canopy seam look good is trimming it to a drop-fit to eliminate any need for filler (which is quite difficult) and then fixing it in place with Future (which will fill in the seam).

Very creative way of making these exhaust stacks.

On the IPMS Stockholm forum (crossposting in Swedish, have a look, might be interesting 🙂 ) someone asked what kind of pencils I was using for the engine. They are Derwent Metallic pencils that I bought many years ago for doing chipping, which I found to be difficult at best. Since then they have just been laying around in my rather full "redundant tool's box" but this time they came in handy. As usual: never throw anything away (or in this case, more likely, hand it over to the kids 🙂 ).

Regards

Magnus

Looking good, Magnus, can't wait to see the finished model!

Re your canopy - if you can find it, try some RC-56 cement, made by JZ Products. It's a white glue made specifically for attaching canopies. I used it first on my RC airplanes and found it works just as well on the plastic ones. It dries clear, and gives you some working time before it dries. It's also pretty good for filling the seams between clear and solid parts, and it is paintable.

BTW - after a couple of beers, everything looks better! 🙂