Airfix 1/72 Lockheed Hudson I

Started by Carl Smoot · 272 · 9 months ago
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    Carl Smoot said 1 year ago:

    This is a new project that I am doing. It will be a slower build as it is being done at the same time as several other builds. This kit was originally released in 1963 and in fact this is one of those original releases and it shows in the quality of the plastic, the crispness of the molding, and the total lack of flash. Additionally, the parts all fit together quite well and it should serve as a good basis for my plans for this build.

    I am going to go the distance on this kit and build it to modern standards, making changes where needed. Other than two aftermarket resin engines (Engines & Things), everything else will either be kit parts, modified as needed, or scratchbuilt. The markings will be painted as much as possible. I intend on making this into one of those Hudsons with white fuselages and camouflage wings and upper fuselage surfaces.

    I'm starting out by removing all the raised surface details and filling in some incorrect scribing. The shape of the main entry door is incorrect. The fixed slots (slats) on the wing outer ends are incorrect and poorly represented and these scribed lines were filled in as well.

    There will be details about the build as I get to it. The first step now will be to correct the surface details. I will be opening up the fixed slots, scribing the correct main entry door, and adding riveting to all the parts.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year ago:

    Great entry and ditto progress so far, my friend @clipper! This will be a big departure from the original mold and the result will for sure be awesome. Looking forward to your next steps!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year ago:

    A beautiful oldie, Carl @clipper
    Looking forward to how you approach this one to get it to modern standards.
    Not an easy task.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    I found your build, Carl (@clipper). Looking forward to your build. I wish the nose on my three were designed like yours. I suspect they designed the MPM kit with a separate nose compartment so that other versions could be built, but it sure complicates the construction. Looking forward to the magic you use on this kit.

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    Carl Smoot said 1 year ago:

    I found some good reference photos of the fixed wing slots (slats) and it definitely shows how Airfix gave only cursory attention to these when they created the mold. Looking at the upper and lower photos, it is plainly visible that the lower openings are further forward than the upper openings which means that the connection between the upper and lower surface is at an angle. I am starting to cut the openings in the wings, but have a ways to go. But I thought I would post the pictures here for reference.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year ago:

    This is an important finding, my friend @clipper. The openings are quite distinctive and rendering them realistically will vastly enhance the looks of your Hudson. Looking forward to the result!

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    I took a look at the slots in the wings on my Hudsons today, Carl (@clipper). I was disappointed to find that they don't go all the way through the wing. They do have a deep slot, so I think I will just leave them like they are.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Carl Smoot said 1 year ago:

    George(@gblair) I think it would probably take more molding finesse than what was available to Special Hobby when they produced these molds. Definitely more than what was available to Airfix. I'm going to give it a go. I have some ideas how to accomplish it, but my problem is getting accurately sized holes cut into the wings.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): I took a look at my Airfix Hudson and discovered how poorly these slots are depicted on the wings. The slots on the Revell kit are quite deep and well-formed on both the upper and lower wing. I gave a few seconds to the thought of opening them up, but then I started wondering if the slots on the top and bottom wing would actually line up. These kits are already offering up a trio of challenges, so I figure I will leave the slots as they are. Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the Airfix slots. It is probably better to start with no slots in the wings so that you don't have to deal with potentially filling and cutting new slots.

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    Carl Smoot said 1 year ago:

    George (@gblair), you are correct, they are offset, see the above photos. It would take some doing to move the hole. I only had to fill in the scribing with super glue.

    And speaking of slots, here are the first examples of what I am doing. I've only cut the wing tip holes so far, but they are offset. Eventually, I will have to connect the upper and lower wing holes together like they appear in the photos. I have some .05 styrene which should work, but that stuff is very thin and doesn't play well with Extra thin cement, so it may require thin CA instead.

    And I received something today that I will be using for the canopy and nose . Clear flat styrene sheet. I am going to try vacu-forming a portion of the nose and the canopy. I have a few different thicknesses to use. I'll go into how I am going to do that when I get to it. But I want these windows to be clear and the kit parts are not.

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    Carl Smoot said 1 year ago:

    Looking at the photos, it looks like I need to lengthen these wing tip holes. Dang, can't ever seem to get anything done in one step, always seems to take multiple steps! 🙁

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year ago:

    A lot of extra work ahead, Carl @clipper
    But it will for sure be of added value once you are done with it.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year ago:

    Fantastic attempt, my friend @clipper! Awesome craftsmanship! Also looking forward to see how the clear styrene sheet will perform.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year ago:

    I believe leaving the slots "as is" will be sufficient for the scale, my friend @gblair.

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    Carl Smoot said 1 year ago:

    Okay, I wasn't happy with the rectangular holes in the wings. I thought about this for a couple of days and tried various different ideas on how to accomplish this. Up until this morning, none of them provided the crispness I am after. An ideal solution would 3D printed parts that can be installed in the wings, but I have neither a 3D printer, nor much experience yet with CAD, so I am having to consider old school approaches.

    The challenge is trying to create small rectangular openings in the wings that go through the wings at an angle. The lower wing surface opening is further forward than the the upper surface opening. It occurred to me yesterday that I might be able to create rectangular boxes that could be attached to the front of the wing upper and lower halves, if the wing leading edges are cut away at the appropriate distance.

    Making the rectangles has been the most difficult part. I am having to piece them together using flat styrene and small "C" channel. Cutting the leading edges off hasn't bothered me too much because I have done things like this before and know from experience that I can ultimately restore the part.

    So I only have one picture this morning, which attempts to show very roughly what I am going to try this time. You can see the small rectangular part (which this example is not good enough to use, but I know how to make it better). You can see I removed the leading edges in the areas of both upper and lower wing halves and that they are cut away at different distances from the original leading edge. These offset cut points provide the angled mounting locations for the rectangular parts.

    Once all the rectangular parts are made and glued into position, then I will re-glue the leading edges back into position and fill in any gaps. Once all this is dry, I will trim the excess rectangular parts from the upper and lower wing surfaces leaving just the parts inside the wing.

    Finally I will do any final shaping and seam filling needed. Later on in the build I will be restoring the surface details (rivets, fasteners, and panel lines). BTW, the rectangular hole on the removed leading edge pieces will be removed and filled in as necessary.

    Tedious? Yes. Crazy? Perhaps. But if I get these right, they should look pretty cool on the finished model.