A huge improvement on that empty interior, Carl @clipper
Definitely more accurate than leaving it empty.

I think I may have found a solution to the cabin windows for this Hudson. I was putting in framing around the areas where the windows were going to be and wondering if the kit windows would fit afterwards. Something I had not verified up to this point. The kit windows also are somewhat thick which I had planned on addressing by changing their mounting depth (for each window - rather tedious) so that I could then sand them down on the outside.

Anyway, one of thoughts on this was that I might be able to try Microscale Krystal Clear glue. I punched a hole in a piece of styrene to test this and it is drying now. However, it also occurred to me almost immediately afterwards that I might be able to use UV cured clear resin (i.e. UV cured nail gloss). I often use this to simulate the lenses on instrument panels. So I punched another hole in a separate piece of styrene and put some of this glue in it. I quickly cured it with a UV lamp I have and it looked clear but sort of worked like a magnifying glass.

So I sanded it down on both side using multiple fine grits of sandpaper and then coated it with future acrylic (also called Pledge Shine). The results are what you see here. The windows on the Hudson are about twice this size so they may be a bit harder to get the glue to fill, but I think it will work out. I'll post some pictures when I am ready to fill the windows (most likely after painting).

Looks indeed like a perfect solution, Carl @clipper

One caveat to this technique which I have already discovered and which precludes me from using it in my case this time is that you need to be able to sand both sides of the window and polish it. If not, then the results are about the same as using the Micro Kristal Klear. Because I had already added structure around the windows in the cabin, it was essentially impossible for me to get in there and sand and polish the insides. So I am using the Kristal Klear instead. I am not entirely happy with that decision, but I'll know next time that the windows should be installed before the structure, even if I use the kit windows.

The reason for the sanding is that, that UV resin is rather thick (at least the example I have) and it is rather hard to get it in there with enough glue to get the surface tension of the hole to come into play before you have more resin than is optimal. What ended up happening was I have a blob in the window that needs to be sanded down.

Unlike Kristal Klear (which shrinks as it dries), this glue cures immediately under UV light, so if there is excess, it stays that way and has to be sanded down. What I am going to do before I try this again on a future project is look for a more liquidy (thinner) gloss solution. You would still need it to be somewhat thick in order to use surface tension to hold it in the hole, but not as thick as my example is.

It also may just be because I was too heavy handed. This UV cured resin is a good product and has other uses in model building in addition to this technique.

Anyway, live and learn.

I just checked Amazon for potential UV resins that might work for your technique, Carl (@clipper). As you might expect, they have a mind-numbing variety of UV nail glosses, with some actually being gels. Glad you mentioned that thinner might work better.

This is really amazing, my friend @clipper! Awesome details!

Thanks Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). Funny thing is that these photos (which are much blown up) really show the clunky nature of doing this in 1/72 using the old school scratch building approach.

The cockpit and nose compartment have most of the finer details now. Next is the radio compartment. I am looking forward to getting past this and painting all of this.

The cabin windows are coming out again. I bought some thinner viscosity UV resin which I am going to try instead of the Micro Kristal Klear.