Modelers have long been dissatisfied with the available kits for the final P-51, the P-51H. Two kits were released in 1999 - one from HiPM and one from Classic Airframes. Both were wanting. The HiPM kit was just flat out wrong - wrong shape, dimensions, outline, detail, there was nothing good to say other than it existed. The Classic Airframes kit was closer in outline accuracy and had a decent resin cockpit. Fit was terrible; I just looked at a review i did back then of the model, and it is the very definition of "putty monster", covered in red Bondo. I even did two, with the second one better having learned the hard way on the first one. You can see the second one here in my blog at iModeler. It looks "OK-ish."
Having discovered Modelsvit kits this year (actually last year, they were the ones who did the design and mold for the AMG Bf-109A/B kits, and have now released their own, the C/D), I was optimistic when I learned they were set to release a P-51H. The CAD drawings looked nice. I told Scott Zuieback to let me know when he got it.
That happened this past Monday. I hot footed it over to the warehouse and grabbed one.
Opening the box, one is immediately struck by the beautiful surface detail - it's comparable to the Eduard P-51D kits. Petite riveting that's hard to see at a distance past a foot (the way it should be), delicate engraved detail. Modelsvit paid attention to the Eduard and Airfix Mustangs when they set out to do this. Decals are nice, with markings for three NMF ANG aircraft and the P-51H sent to the RAF for evaluation in 1945, in RAF camouflage. The canopy is thick but accurately shaped and optically clear, with open and closed options.
I can resist everything but temptation, so I dived right in. Over two days, I got the model assembled and to the stage where painting is next.
The most important thing I learned is this: this is a high-end LIMITED RUN KIT. It does look like the Eduard kit when assembled in terms of nice detail, but if you think it's the Eduard kit while working on it, you will be sorely disappointed and unsuccessful. Remember the rule: test fit three times before gluing once. If you do, and take care in assembly, you too can have a model that has minimum filler on it (I only had to apply some CA glue to the centerline seam in the radiator scoop), as the photos below demonstrate.
When assembling the cockpit, the major sub-assembly, I first attached all the small parts to the larger parts (sidewalls and floor), then painted everything still on the sprue. Modelsvit wants you to then assemble the cockpit completely and glue it to a fuselage half. Having done some test-fitting and realized this was not a mainstream injection-molded kit, I opted to attacch the left sidewall to that fuselage half, then attach the forward and rear bulkheads and the floot. This decision was rewarded with my ability to sand down and reshape the parts to fit into the fuselage properly, which they would not have done following the kit instructions. I also found that as designed, the seat and armor backing will sit too low. I attached the seat to the armor backing and then attached it to the rear bulkhead about 1/16 inch higher than the attachment points would have it. This put it right. I then attached the right sidewall to that fuselage half. Everything came together with perfect fit.
The other major sub-assembly is the wing. I assembled the gear well, then when I went to attach the upper wing part, I found the walls of the gear well were a bit high. I sanded them down till the upper wing part fit as it should, this was only sanding down a very little bit, but getting the wing sub-assembly to fit properly will lead to you being able to attach it to the fuselage without filler at the upper wing-fuselage joint. I discovered there were gaps at the upper rear of the fuselage-wing joint, and at the forward wing-fuselage joint on the bottom. These were taken care of with 10-mil sheet styrene, glued in position and then trimmed to shape. I did not need any filler for this. I found when I went to attach the flaps and ailerons that I should not have glued the upper and lower wing parts together there, because the gaps are necessary. I was able to cut them apart, and then the flaps and ailerons fitted very nicely - again test fit three times before gluing once.
The horizontal stabilizers fit well - be sure to check alignment to be certain they are level. The elevators as designed fit in the neutral position. I scraped their leading edge to the angle i wanted and attached them in a "drooped" position.
The antennas are butt-fitted and that.s not good. I dug out a little bit at their attachment points to give them a little "snuggle space" and glued them in. So far, so good, but be careful, they're going to be easy to knock off whatever you do.
The canopy needed test fitting and I had to sand down the windshield at its forward edge to get proper fit. I also trimmed down the instrument panel coaming and thinned the interior of the windscreen at the forward edge so it would fit properly. Test fit three times before gluing once. To position the canopy in the open position, you need to sand down the rear deck to about half its thickness, and be sure it is positioned at the top edge of the canopy frame. If you had sanded down the little "ridge" along the centerline right aft of the canopy, it will then fit in the proper position (with the rear end jsut touching the top of the fuselage). Test fit three times before gluing once.
Next step: painting.
6 attached images. Click to enlarge.
