Cessna 172P OY-CFJ, Greenland FINISHED

Started by Erik Gjørup · 96 · 4 years ago · 1/48, airbum, arctic decals, Cessna, Cessna172, GLAF, greenlandair, grønlandsfly, Haldværk, halfworks
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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Good afternoon @fiveten - just been working on the DHC6 after this, keeping it a Greenlandic themed day. fingers crossed for the Me-261!

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Looking at this C172, compared to the DH6, it is this one I would worry about the nose weights and the landing gear. I always worry about the strength of the rear landing gear on planes like this. I built one that the rear gear started sagging and then kept going. Eventually the belly of the plane was resting on the shelf. Good luck.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    George, I understand your concern! I have measured the tipping-point to be just shy of the mains, and hopefully that should ensure the weight on these are just a gram or three above the unladen weight. So far they hold fine, but time will tell. Actually the nosegear does not have that much weight and is looking rather sturdy. I may have to keep a fueldrum handy to put under it in the cabinet 🙂

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Hi @airbum and @gblair! Regarding sagging over time, it mainly applies to resin skinny legs, but also to some cases with styrene skinny legs and/or a lot of weight and/or soft plastic, like the modified (by me...) legs at my 1/48 Bronco that is finished and will be presented soon!

    What I do is to store such models in my display case resting (usually at the wings) on two or more suitable items (humbrol cans, for instance). I let them rest on their feet only for short time exhibition purposes. I know this doesn't look very sporty idea, but serves its purpose to leave my model unaffected.

    All the best, my friends, I love your attention to details!

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Spiros, that is planning ahead. That's not allowed. I always tell people the plane had a hard landing. I only had one plane (an O-1 Bird Dog) have the gear spread farther, but the jury is out about whether it was thin gear or perhaps the join was incomplete at the fuselage.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Good approach, @gblair. I even had issues with (yes!) white metal leg sagging over time, but the model was REALLY heavy.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    @gblair, @fiveten thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences. I recently saw a new set of legs for a 109 that employed some steel rod (smartly representing the chromed part) with the non-chrome parts cast in resin over it - just like the ones I tried for my Mölders 109 (must get some mottling done on that one soon). Of course they are expensive, and not available for Cessna 172's, so fingers crossed, support at the ready! (Cessnas do have hard landings - witnessed a few at my airport yesterday, but mostly come out OK - one managed to hit the asphalt with the propeller saturday though - after having a new engine a few weeks earlier after having the propeller hit the ground. . . .)

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Here you have a link to the leg in the Mölders 109 build; https://imodeler.com/groups/work-in-progress-aircraft/forum/topic/messerschmitt-bf109f-1-werner-molders-eduard-1-48/?_wpnonce=988d241919#post-27392
    That might work, but not on a 172 I think (well - OK on the nose it might)

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    That would be my choice, Erik. Putting piano wire or brass wire into the strut would really add support for the gear. But the rear strut is fairly flat and thin, so not much of a chance there. I even considered cutting a slot or trough on the underside of the strut and hiding it with putty, but I think the chances for destroying the strut are fairly high. On my last 172 I didn't use any additional weight for the nose, but chose to keep it light. When the model was done, I build a wooden base, painted it like a airport ramp, and glued the wheels down. It didn't survive the move to my current house after I retired from the military.

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    Andrew H said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    George, that's another alternative to the oil drum under the tail method. If you can keep the wheels from spreading outward from the fuselage, it should help them to maintain posture better. I'll keep this in mind for my Bird Dog.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 5 months ago:

    Seeing red

    After some masking, the fuselage turned red

    I painted the majority of the fuselage today, Humbrol 19 Gloss Red



    The wings were left off, partly because they need more work, partly because it will be extremely difficult to get it painted with the struts in place, as the underside of the wing is white, and the upper fuselage is red.

    Now some more work needs to be done to the wingtips before next post.

    Getting closer – really looking forward to decals, but that is still somewhat distant

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 5 months ago:

    Just a tip

    a wingtip that is

    The wingtips are shaping up nicely.



    Built up by putty and removing sprue, they look more like the real thing.

    And next up - paint. . .

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 5 months ago:

    That is a great shade of red. Biplane and high-wing planes always create a dilemma if there are different colors on the wing and fuselage, or if there is a strut that is a different color. Wingtips look great.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 5 months ago:

    Looking very good, my friend @airbum. Would do the same as you did, leaving the wing off this lady for the moment!
    Looking forward to your progress. I bet you wait impatiently to decal this beauty.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 5 months ago:

    @gblair, @fiveten, Thanks gents - yet another post comin' up