This is the first time I have looked at this journal in a while. Man you have been busy ! This is inspiring me to talk with the Imodeler staff for a future Japanese Aircraft Group Build for next year.

Looks great Chuck, and I especially like your choice of interior color. Well done.

Looks great. I never do anything without pre-made canopy masks anymore. I also have reached the age where fine painting and adding small photoetch parts is an exercise in futility. I just noticed you used Vallejo Model Color to paint your interior colors. I have never had any luck using Model Color in my airbrush. I have used Model Air without problems.

Hi George, any WWII or basically any multi engine aircraft with a bunch of glass needs a masking set. At least for me. It is the least fun part for me is masking all that glass. Only on fighters and most modern jets I can live with cutting and trimming on a basic bubble canopy, those are easy to mask for me. The PE is mostly for interior enhancement. I use Vallejo only on if I happen to have that particular color, other wise most of the interior is Tamiya or Model Master. The exterior can be a variety.

Pedro true on the masking process. The scheme on this will be more of a Dark Earth over Grey Green.

Now too airbrush the scheme. First the undersurfaces with Aeromaster War Color Acrylic Grey Green.

First a marbling effect overall.

Then thinning down the Grey/Green, I mist over the marbling to even the paint out over the wings, tail and fuselage.

Next to attach and test fit the engine cowlings, then to stuff them with cotton. To prepare to paint them.

Before painting the top side IJA Brown. I mask off under the horizontal stabs, tail wheel doors and also the forward section of the engine/gear bay nacelles.

First apply the top color to establish the soft demarcation line, the lower rear section of the tail and then front sections of the nacelles that extend below the wings. And then set the demarcation line on the nose section.

Paint the engine cowlings

Next to go over the top surfaces.

Once painted then remove the masks over the ID stripes, tail and nacelles.

Let it sit overnight and then will mask the tail for the white panel around the rear section of the fuselage just aft of the rear canopy. On the recon Dinah I made this a bit too narrow, wil try to avoid that this time.

Once the white is applied the masks are removed and put aside for a coat of gloss coat future for the decals process.

So with the clear coat next to apply will come back and start the decals. More to follow.

Chuck @uscusn, this is coming along nicely. Really like what I'm seeing here.

Will do this scheme.

Getting back to finally finishing the decal work on the Dinah. First applying the Future Clear coat overall the air frame.

Next using decal set from Rising Decals, start at the bottom as usual and first applying the Hinomaru's on the lower wing panels. So far performing very well. Decals are thin and look similar to Superscale/Aeromaster in how they settle.

Using the Microscale system to apply each decal. Just a bit of Solvaset on one stubborn part to conform over a detail point on one of the decals.

There wasn't any stencils on this version of the Dinah. Just Hinomaru's and squadron markings. So over the top and sides I applied the rest of the markings without incident.

The scheme represents a night fighter based in Japan, Kai, Dokuritsu 83rd Chutai, Ashiya Airfield, Fokuoka Perfecture, Japan.

There is not much out there in decals for the fighter version of the Ki-46.

The paint schemes can be rather bland. What really helps is that the Dinah is unique in shape and is really has an appealing appearance. The shape is slender and sleek and this scheme really enhances a rather simple brown over Grey/Green scheme.

Still in clear coat I then streak the lower surfaces with a wash and chipping effect.

Next to attach the final details.

Good morning Erik, I used Solvaset on the decal to soften it and conform to the details on the wing. Let it set overnight, use a sharp blade to slice some portions of the decal and apply more Solvaset to melt the decal over that detail. Works 90% of the time.

The markings really make the Dinah come alive, even with the relatively monotone paint scheme. Solvaset is great, but is very strong. I have had it dissolve some of the less hardy decals, so be sure to test it on some spare decals before you commit it to the build.