Eduard 1/48 Nakajima-built A6M2 Model 21 Zero

Started by Ronnie Olsthoorn · 11 · 10 months ago
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    Ronnie Olsthoorn said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Finally, I got around to starting one of Eduard's superlative 1/48 A6M2 Zero kits. It's a marvellous kit with a great choice of decals, but I'm going to go with a different scheme altogether. It will be a very late Nakajima production airframe (late 1943), and as such I need to make a number modifications to the kit (with the magnificent help of Zero expert Ryan Toews).

    I have both the Tora Tora Tora and this boxing of the Eduard kit (thank you Eduard Model Accessories!). Since I'm building a late Nakajima airframe, this one has the easier instructions to follow, as it includes some Nakajima subjects too.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Ronnie Olsthoorn said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    This bit of the work was done in December. Basically gluing the kit parts together and starting adding cockpit modifications and extra detail. The only aftermarket part I intend to use is Eduard's 3D printed seat, which is more refined than the kit one.

    I deviated from the kit's instructions by glueing the sidewall detail to the fuselage halves. This allowed me to make the necessary modifications, including the addition of various wires, a pair of cockpit lamps and throttle push rods. The upper instrument panel was modified to represent the style that would be the standard on the A6M5, but already implemented by Nakajima on late A6M2s. Some wires and boxes were added to the floor including the rudder cables.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Ronnie Olsthoorn said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Mr Surfacer 1500 black primer added using my 1990s-vintage Badger 150 at 15 psi.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Ronnie Olsthoorn said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Mr Hobby SM208 Super Dural + MRP 410 Aotake added. The aotake looks great over silver, but will build up to opacity on plain plastic as well (see tail wheel bay).

    The cockpit floor has various additions and modifications. Behind the manual fuel pump lever (left of the flight stick) I drilled three holes for the fuel tank selector switch rods.
    Eduard made a mistake in their instructions on page 9, detail C. The photoetch T-handle shutoff valves should not be glued to the emergency fuel pump (rear box-like detail on the right) but on the box ahead of it (which has the T-handles moulded in). In my case, I skipped the left-front T-handle as it is for opening the wing tank cooling vents, which were absent from late-production Nakajima-built A6M2s. Their corresponding panel lines on the lower wing (small rectangular shapes near the cannon bulges) will therefore be filled.

    Some minor modifications were made to the right sidewall, including wiring for the radio controls, the missing loop aerial control (+ wire), the bracket for the tail hook retraction mechanism and the missing tail hook indicator box and wires. The proportions of the radio controls box were also altered to match the photoetch (to be added later).

    More modifications were done on the left sidewall, including the addition of throttle pushrods, a pair of cockpit lamps and associated wiring, some added detail for the float blower valve, right below it (a missing tube will be added later).

    The only modifications on the cockpit backwall are the substitution of the kit's seat with Eduard's 3D printed seat (the minute print lines are unfortunately visible with the silver, but will hopefully vanish with subsequent weathering) and the addition of the bungee cords behind the seat. I considered scratching the engine starter hand crank, which is mounted behind the seat, but I am not even sure if it was carried as standard (I assume it was only carried on transfer flights) and barely visible anyway.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Ronnie Olsthoorn said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    I tried spraying some Vallejo chipping fluid over the cockpit, but within seconds the airbrush was clogged. No amount of dilution made it workable, so I spent an aggravating hour on cleaning it all out (not a first time this happens with a Vallejo product...). Next I grabbed a bottle of hairspray and was done in 15 seconds!
    Next, Mr Hobby H420 RLM 80 Olive Green was used as the "shadow" coat for the cockpit and chose as it's a close match for the radio equipment.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Ronnie Olsthoorn said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Tamiya XF-71 IJN Cockpit Green was added for the main cockpit colour (as applied in late production Nakajima-built airframes with exception of the radio equipment) and sprayed from above to preserve some shadow effects (not very successfully). I added a splash of gloss varnish to the mix for smoother spraying with my Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR Plus.

    The cockpit was snapped against the sidewall for a first impression. As you can see I already had a go at chipping. Not very refined, I guess, but it'll do. Next will be detail painting, followed by weathering, while I hope to make a start with the engine as well.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Tom Cleaver said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Ronnie - if Vallejo does that to you, you haven't thinned it enough. I find if I thin Vallejo paints about 55-45 or 60-40 (more thinner than paint) it doesn't clog and it sprays "right."

    This is going to be very interesting, watching a REAL "Subject Matter Expert" have at it with this kit.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Excellent entry and super progress, my friend @skyraider3d!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Great entry and a solid start, Ronnie @skyraider3d
    Like mentioned by Tom @tcinla, thinning Vallejo is an absolute must, I use a paint/thinner ratio of 1:1 myself. This for their Model Air series of paint, I have no experience yet on spraying their chipping fluid.

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    Ronnie Olsthoorn said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks! I've yet to spray Vallejo paints, but I've used various other products in my airbrush that seemed interesting (like chipping fluid, flow enhancer, and similar things), and none of them did what I was expecting of them. No doubt user error on my end, but Mr Hobby/Tamiya/AK/VMS/well...anything else really, seems to cause no problems at all 🙂
    I really want to try out their metal varnish, as it seems to do a good job at preserving metallic paint reflectivity, but I am very reluctant now.

    I typically use more thinner than paint as my H&S airbrush is very sensitive to trip dry, especially when using the 0.15 mm needle.

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    Tom Cleaver said 10 months, 1 week ago:

    The Vallejo metal paints are easy. They are "airbrush ready," no thinning needed. I use Tamiya X-18 Semi-gloss Black for primer. then you mist on the Vallejo. Works every time. Let the Tamiya cure for 24 hours first.