Flashback 1/48 Miles Magister

Started by George R Blair Jr · 49 · 2 years ago · 1/48, Flashback, LF Models, Miles Magister, RAF, trainer, WW2
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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). I got the wings mounted today. I really try to avoid building kits that attach the wings to the fuselage using a butt joint. Seems like a recipe for disaster. I started by outlining the attachment point with masking tape. I wanted some visual cues to ensure that I was placing the wing in the right part of the fuselage. I glued one wing on and then rested the plane on its box-like fuselage while the wing dried. I attached the second wing after allowing the first to dry. I put the plane in a specially constructed jig (a plastic container) to keep the wing vertical while it dried. Tomorrow I plan to do any necessary cleanup around the wings and then attach the wheel spats. Horizontal stabilizers will come after that. Cheers everyone.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Great wings attachment, my friend @gblair! All went well in the end! Love your special jig!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    Not an easy way to mount wigns, George @gblair.
    Looks like you have them on nicely and your special jig is taking care of the drying process very well.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). So far, so good.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    I had a checkup at the doctor's yesterday, so I didn't get much done. I did get some things done today. I am in the hurry up and wait phase, where I glue the butt joint on the wings, then wait for the glue to dry, glue the butt joint on the wheel spats, then wait for the glue to dry, then glue the butt joint on the horizontal stabilizers, then wait for the glue to dry. So, I got all of this done and cleaned up the attachment points with some putty. I used acrylic putty in most places because it can be smoothed and neatened using either water or alcohol. The tail surfaces needed some filler with a little more structure to it, so I used Tamiya White Putty. I have read that you can clean up and neaten this putty using lacquer thinner. So, instead of sanding the area smooth, I used a little lacquer thinner on a Q-Tip. I was concerned that the lacquer thinner might attack the plastic, but everything went well. I still used a very fine sanding stick to complete the process, but everything seemed to work well. I am moving slowly closer to painting. Yeah.

    Cheers everyone.

    6 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Great progress, my friend @gblair! The filling and sanding session worked pretty well. Indeed, this is a "hurry up and wait" kit, like my Heller Honda 🙂

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    Really nice progress, George @gblair
    I also would have been anxious to use a thinner on the plastic, but it seems to work well on yours.
    Hope your checkup at the doctor's also went well.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). The plastic in this kit seems very hard, so I thought the tough skin on the plastic might help resist the thinner. I tested the lacquer thinner on a piece of sprue before I used it on the actual model, so I was pretty sure it would be OK. Don't know how it will work on softer plastic, but it sure saved a lot of sanding and lost details in this case.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    I polished the plastic with an old t-shirt, and then checked one more time that everything looked OK. I started the painting by spraying Vallejo White from a spray can. I always try to put down a white layer first when I will be spraying either yellow or red. They look much better over the lighter color. I really like the Vallejo sprays. The spray pressure seems to be a little lower, so there is a lesser tendency to get paint buildup. In addition, the spray seems to be much finer than other spray cans, which is helpful when trying to slowly build the color. I misted on two light layers of white, followed by Vallejo Yellow from a spray can. I sprayed two layers of yellow to be sure I had an even color.

    I think that will be it for today. I want the yellow to be completely dry when I start doing the masking for the camo areas. The weatherman is also predicting tornadoes in our area this afternoon, so I plan to keep one eye on the weather till this cold front moves through. Cheers.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    The yellow came out really great, my friend @gblair! Hope all will be good with the weather!

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten). So far it looks like the storms have missed us. We have had several tornadoes within a mile or three of us during the spring and summer, so we tend to be very cautious when the warnings come. It is weird to be getting tornadoes in November.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    Great result on this difficult color, George @gblair
    Good to hear that the storm missed you, another indication of the climate change, tornadoes in November.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb). I don't mind yellow too much. Basically, just one extra step. My thoughts exactly about tornadoes in November.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Today is painting day. By this time, the overall yellow paint had dried solidly. The next big step was to mask the yellow. It took a ton of tape and an hour of time to get the tape done. The LF decal set came with a set of masks for the yellow wingtips and the ID numbers under the wings. The biggest problem I had here was that the tape was almost the same color as the yellow used on the plane. This made it difficult to be sure that I hadn't missed any places that needed tape protection. If I missed any places it will be obvious when I remove the tape.

    I have a problem finding the right color for the Dark Earth portion of the camouflage. Some looks too dark, while others look too light. I started by trying 4 different paints on a piece of white notecard. All 4 are supposed to be RAF Dark Earth. Three of them look fairly close to the same color, while the AK Real Color version seems too light and too tan. In the end I decided to go with the Tamiya version, which is only available in a spray can. I sprayed the lightest layer that I thought would cover everything, then let the dark earth dry. I used Tamiya RAF Dark Green 2 for the other color. I usually mask the pattern with tape, but I decided to freehand the green using my airbrush. My results freehanding camo are very inconsistent, but seem to be OK this time.

    I plan to let everything dry for an hour and then pull the tape off. Then we can see if my masking was complete and if my use of a spray can left a paint ridge that I will need to deal with. Next step will be some clear gloss, then the decals. I found a caution on the decals that says they were manufactured with a continuous clear film. I didn't know anyone still made decals that way, but I am sure I can deal with them.

    Cheers everyone.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Nice freehanding, my friend @gblair! To me also the Tamiya looks closer to what I perceive as "dark earth". Looking forward to see the complete result with masks removed!