Hasagawa P-40E Warhawk Build Log

  • 20 posts
  • Last reply 7 years, 10 months ago
  • Build log, Hasagawa P-40E
Viewing 1 - 15 of 20 posts
  • Patrick Herrmann said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    I’ve started construction on my Hasagawa P-40E. Construction started as usual with the cockpit. I’m using the Eduard photoetch set so I folded and soldered the seat. For seat belts I used foil and belts from Lions Roar. I scratch built the hand operated hydraulic pump, just a small piece of wire and built up CA for the nob. While dry-fitting the seat, the cockpit floor was dropped and I lost the kit control stick so I had to scratch build that as well. I rebuilt the stick with a hand grip from a Corsair a short length of solder, styrene and wire. I know that in one of the articles someone asked what the box is on the front of the stick, from the In Detail and Scale book it appears to be a pinkie trigger, if someone knows for sure by all means please fill us in!
    I also began putting that modular fuselage together. Here’s how I’m tackling that. This process requires a lot of small adjustments and planning. You really want to get the seams as close as possible to minimize filling and sanding. To get the mating surfaces along the sides as close as possible I filed away any plastic that prevented a tight fit. I’m also building each side seperate as I find it much easier to fill the top and bottom seams. Once all the fuselage parts for each side were assembled I sanded the seams to bring each side of the seam level, and applied Tamiya Liquid Surfacer to fill the seams.
    The next step will involve sanding the seam smooth where the majority of the surfacer will be removed. To be continued!!

    18 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Patrick Herrmann said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    Build Log post part two! Cockpit has been painted and some photo etch applied. I sanded the Tamiya Liquid Surfacer on the tail, window panels and nose, applied more surfacer, sanded that, then sprayed liquid surfacer to show any flaws. I filled and sanded the flaws. The radiator was assembled painted and installed in the fuselage halves. I neglected to take a photo of the top and bottom seams prior to filling and sanding but there was a few gaps that I expected due to the careful aligning of the tail and window panels. I would much rather fill and sand the top and bottom seams than any steps that would have developed from assembling the halves first as the kit instructions specify. When I was fitting the front of the radiator scoop i noticed a step existed and found that there was a gap where the propeller is installed but the seam was tight along the top so I clamped the nose together, glued it and that resolved both the step and the gap. The fuselage is nearing completion! I’ve installed the etch in the wheel wells, painted, weathered and installed them and the wings are assembled. Before cementing the wings together I tacked them in place with some CA to keep them from shifting, again, careful alignment here will save time and frustration when inserting the gun plugs in the leading edge. Anyone see a trend yet? With careful planning and fitting you can side step most of the kit’s gotchas and be a fun build. More to come!

    9 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • jeff stewart said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    coming together nicely, the office looks great.

  • Patrick Herrmann said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    With all of the fuselage sanding complete the wings have been assembled, sanded and attached! I primed with Tamiya liquid surfacer, wet sanded with 2000 grit and pre-shaded with dark grey.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

  • jeff stewart said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    wow the preshading looks better than my finished work……….masked right?

  • jeff stewart said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    i havent seen that done yet. i like it…….still learning! (masking one side of the panel line?)

  • Patrick Herrmann said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    That’s correct I just used some post-it’s. this is my second time pre-shading like this. I liked the effect it had on my Skyraider so I thought it might liven up a bland OD over N. grey scheme.

  • jeff stewart said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    post its. i’ve got plenty of those. thanx for the insight. i just started a 1/48 p-47n and that method will definitely be used on it!

  • jeff stewart said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    you sprayed directly over the post-it edge or just to the inside of it to achieve that effect?

  • Patrick Herrmann said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    Sprayed mostly on the post it. If you can see the used ones in the background. I did several very light layers and built it up.

  • Jack Mugan said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    Patrick…. I see you have found the easy method for multiple masking panels with Post-a-Notes. My question is, how did you decide which side of the panel line to put the shadow?

  • Patrick Herrmann said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    I’m pretty much just making an assumption that the leading edge of panels would be slightly more worn and faded than the trailing. Therefore, the panel would need the dark shading toward the rear and lighter up front.

  • Anders Isaksson said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    Great looking preshade you have applied, Patrick! I very much prefer your approach compared to the ‘classic’ panel line technique.
    Looks like the panel lines running along the aft fuselage where the join is are a bit mismatched by Hasegawa, was this difficult to fix? Or perhaps this is not so visible once the aft fuselage is completely together and has been cleaned up.

    Great work allaround, thanks or sharing! 🙂

  • Patrick Herrmann said 7 years, 11 months ago:

    For the aft fuselage joint I really wanted to make sure there was no step at that joint so a small mismatch developed along the top seam. With a little bit of sanding and a little bit of filler that seam disappeared easily. Those top and bottom seams are way easier to fill and correct than a step that runs along the whole side. At least in my opinion. Thanks for the compliments!

  • Patrick Herrmann said 7 years, 10 months ago:

    Here are a few photos after having painted the OD over N. Grey. Both colors were lightened slightly. Grey with white and Olive Drab with some yellow.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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