Looking really nice, my friend @uscusn! I might give Microset/Sol a go, too!

John been using the Microscale system in applying decals since the 70's when I first started using Microscale decals and followed their directions and advise from the hobby shop owner who was quite helpful, Bert, from Bert's Hobbies in Downy on Telegraph Rd, one of the great times when hobby stores were owned by model builders before the Net pretty much ruined the brick and mortar stores of the times. Not as large and as elaborate as Brookhurst Hobbies, (still around) but a nice personal touch with a man that was willing to share and show you techniques to a young modeler at the time.

Thanks Spiros, MicroSol is the step you use last to melt the decal over panel lines, rivets and other surface details. Not strong like Solva Set which you use on stubborn decals, or over contours and more complicated details that Micro Sol is not strong enough for the decal to conform too. Haven't tried yet any of the other decal softeners like Mr Mark from Gunze or Tamiyas Decal sets. Sometime you get comfy with what you have been using over the years. So why try something new when you have what works now.

Thanks George, the BMF scheme is a bit of a challenge especially on an air frame that did require a lot of seam work. Extra light sanding to remove the scratches that will show on this type of finish, the primer does fill most of them, still even have to check the finish before applying the metallizers.

Very good progress, my friend @uscusn! The turbochargers look great. Nice that the landing gear is not over engineered.

Gear looks really slick, Chuck (@uscusn). Oleo really looks the part.

Looking great, my friend @uscusn!
Great job on the wheels and spinners!
Looking forward to see your job on the gear doors!

Success, Chuck (@uscusn), it sits on all three wheels. The P-38 is notorious for wanting to sit on its tail. Wheels look great. I can never seem to get the masks on the wheel hubs centered, so well done having everything come out so well.

Thanks guys, building 2 Academy Lightning's prior to the Hase and currently the Tam P-38 have helped determine how much weight to drop in the nose keep it standing on it's gear. Now starting at the nose, to install the gear door.

First the door actuator.

This will be installed within the nose gear bay at the rear of the bay. About a 45 degree angle.

Next the nose gear door is attached at the hinge point and the actuator to set the proper angle. The nose gear door actually has a positive contact points that allow a good fit to the nose.

Somehow I don't have the images for the trial and error process to attach the main gear doors. Trust me I get them on, it was not a fun task.

With the gear doors attached. Next was to lightly airbrush the exhaust stain along the top of the booms using Tamiya Smoke.

Careful not to put too much smoke on this. This should get the desired effect.

Now to decal the prop blades.

Once they set, Vallejo Flat Clear Coat is applied. I like using this paint as it leaves a nice flat finish.

With the clear coat now set, each blade is then inserted into the spinners.

All the bladed have been inserted. And looks much more like a Lightning now with this all done.

The top canopy hatch is installed and the stab counterweight as well. Now last is to install the Master brass gun barrels.

Love using these as this small bit of detailed brass barrels do look much better than the plastic ones. Main reason they are hollow. Well made and easy to install. Starting with the 20mm cannon.

Next working Left to Right, carefully insert the barrels into the gun ports in the nose.

She is done!

What a great looking Lightning, Chuck @uscusn
Lots of great looking effects like the fuel stains and exhaust effect.
Also the gun barrels are a beautiful addition to this build.