Lockheed F-80 C Shooting Star

Started by Morne Meyer · 91 · 4 years ago
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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Seventy years ago the Korean War 1950 - 1953, often called the forgotten war, started with the North Koreans invading the south in an attempt to unify the divided country under a communist flag. UN intervention was swift with USAF assets flying missions first from bases in Japan and later, once a toe hold was gained, from South Korea. One of the workhorses of the air war was Lockheed's pugnacious F-80 C Shooting Star which served in large numbers as America's first jet fighter. To commemorate the Korean War I decided to embark on a building project of all my Korean War aircraft in the stash. Hopefully I will be able to finish them over a three year period.

    For this build I embarked upon using the Hobbyboss F-80 C and add more detailed parts from the old Monogram kit. I have also sourced detailed parts from an Academy F-86 Sabre and AMT Grumman Tigercat. I will also add some scratchbuilt details to take the model to the next level.

    I started sourcing lots of reference material and found the Osprey F-80 Units of the Korean War to be indispensable for this build.

    I decided that I will open the nose of the model to display the guns and ammo cans. For this to work I had to add the Monogram F-80's gun bay. After some careful rhinoplasty it was all done within a couple of hours of careful cutting and sanding. The Monogram kit's machine guns don't have perforated barrels so I sourced a machine gun from the Academy F-80 Sabre kit. some small bits of Evergreen styrene were also added for extra details. The plastic barrels protruding through the nose were replaced with brass barrels.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    The next bit of detail added centred around the flaps. The Hobbyboss kit has some ribs added to the flaps but it does not come close to the details of the Monogram F-80 flaps. I selected to use the Monogram flaps. The first problem I encountered was the length of the Monogram flaps as well as the locating slots did not line up with the attachment points. I lengthened the Monogram flaps by adding plasticard measured to fit the length of the Hobbyboss flaps. I relocated the attachment points and glued the flaps in place. I also added ribbing details from strips of Evergreen styrene.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    The landing gear details are okay OOB but I selected to add details that were omitted. I started by drilling holes into the oleo scissors of the nose and main wheel undercarriage. The main undercarriage received lead wire brake lining. I added lenses for the nose gear landing / taxi lamps and Evergreen styrene was used to add steering linkage details to the nose gear. The main wheels received new hub center sections as well as a tyre valve simulated with lead wire.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    The Reflector gunsight is missing a few details that can add a bit of interest to this part of the cockpit. I added bits and pieces of Evergreen styrene, clear styrene, lead wire and a sprocket from a broken watch.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    The Hobbyboss kit supply a range of different wingtip mounted fuel tanks. I always liked the lengthened Misawa tanks and thankfully they are in the kit. Looking at reference photos it is clear that these tanks took a beating as they were handled on the ground and subsequently they are often seen sporting some dents on the tail end and nose areas. I wanted to add some visual interest to the tanks so I simulated the dents with the aid of a Dremel tool. I also drilled out the refueling cap to pose it in an open position. I scratchbuilt a new fuel cap and attached it with lead wire to the fuel tank. Some reference photos show F-80's loaded with bombs and HVAR's. The Hobbyboss kit contains a couple of bombs but has no HVAR's. I sourced some spare HVAR's from the AMT Grumman Tigercat kit. With this load I must add RATO gear which I will have to scratchbuild.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    The cockpit comes with an acceptable seat and PE seat harness but the rest of the cockpit is crying for some added details. The cockpit, Reflector gunsight and ejection seat comprises a total of 20 parts. I am going to add about 19 extra bits of details from styrene bits and pieces, lead and copper wire, stretched sprue and small parts from a broken watch. I added an oxygen hose made from coiled copper wire and styrene rod. I replaced the Hobbyboss canopy with the Monogram F-80 canopy because it contains the D/F sense antenna. I added a thin coiled copper wire to the D/F antenna as this is clearly visible in reference photos.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Forgive me for asking, but what scale is this? The build is looking very good, and the attention to detail is just great!

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    Tom Bebout said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Awesome work Morne.

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    Andrew H said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Off to a great start, this one is going to be special!

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Hi Erik. It is 1/48 scale. Thanks for the comment!

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Thanks Tom. I hope you will enjoy this build of mine. I have added lots of scratchbuilt details to this one.

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Thanks Andrew. I will sure do my best not to disappoint!

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Looking at reference photos it is clear that the HVAR's from the AMT Grumman Tigercat will have to be altered slightly and some details need to be added. I removed half of each rocket's pylon and added attachment points to the fins of each rocket. These pieces of plasticard will serve as attachment points to the lower wing surface. I also added thin lead wire as 'pig tails' to the end of each rocket. A small droplet of super glue simulate the attachment point of the 'pig tails' to the lower wing.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Most reference photos show F-80's carrying bombs of WW II vintage. These were often left on the ground exposed to the elements at bomb storage areas at airfields during the Korean War. Subsequently many bombs casings display a grimy and rough texture which more than often were a mixture of dust and mud. Some casings even had a rusty appearance. Some bomb casings had been cut into so that the bomb would fragment into thousands of pieces of shrapnel upon exploding on a target. I wanted to see how much of this I could simulate. The bomb casing's rough texture was simulated using correction fluid. This was dabbed onto the bombs using a sponge. I also noted a small square-shaped attachment point on the bottom of these bombs. I scratchbuilt these attachment points with thin pieces of Evergreen styrene. After the correction fluid had dried for a day, I sprayed Tamiya matt yellow and masked the prominent yellow markings. The bomb casings were sprayed with Modelmaster Dark Green and the tail fins were sprayed Modelmaster Olive Green. I sealed everything under a coat of Humbrol Clear. After it had dried for a couple of hours, I sprayed a thin coat of Humbrol Matt Varnish followed by a weathering session using Doc O' Brien's weathering powders. This was then sealed under a further light coat of Humbrol Matt Varnish.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Morne Meyer said 4 years, 6 months ago:

    Reference photos indicate that the aluminum panels of the fuselage and wings as well as the fuel tanks had a weathered dull finish or patina. I have always battled to get a realistic faded aluminum finish with just the right patina to make it look authentic. I attempted numerous methods but none gave me the desired effect i was looking for. I then decided to use salt weathering. The fuel tanks were sprayed Tamiya Titanium silver and the center section of each tank was then dry-brushed with Tamiya Flat aluminum. I then sealed this finish under a coat of Humbrol Clear varnish. After the gloss coat had cured properly, I sprayed water over the tanks and sprinkled coarse salt over each tank. This was left for a couple of hours to allow for the salt to soak up all the moisture. I then sprayed a light coat of Modelmaster Aluminum buffing metalizer over each tank. After drying for a couple of hours, I brushed the salt off the tanks and lightly buffed the metalizer. This was then sealed under another thin coat of Humbrol Clear. I then allowed it to dry overnight. Decals were applied and a wash of Dark Brown Doc O' Brien's weathering powder mixed with water was applied to all panel lines. After drying for a couple of minutes the excess was wiped off in the direction of the airflow with a soft cloth. This helped to add a slight brownish patina to the weathered Aluminum finish. Fuel staining of the Aluminum by spilled aviation fuel was replicated with brushed on graphite powder. A final thin coat of Humbrol Clear sealed the panel wash and fuel stains.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.