MiG-23MLA 'Flogger-G' (Clearprop, 1:72)

Started by Sebastijan Videc · 61 · 1 year ago
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    Sebastijan Videc said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    I was very intrigued when Clearprop announced their new tool MiG-23 kit in 1:72 and with its release in early April, I managed to get one at Moson show in Hungary. Since there's very few builds or reviews that I've seen so far, I've decided to do a build review of the kit.

    Starting with the cockpit, the kit uses a combination of Photo-etched and plastic parts combined with decals. It requires some time to build all the layers but the end result is a really cool looking and busy cockpit. For example - the instrument panel is a basic shape, to which you apply instrument faces decals then glue the PE framing over it and on top of that a second set of decals that cover all the various knobs, displays etc. And of course in the end, you add the tiny levers for gears etc. The only thing I add was the throttle handle, which is missing (there's only a slightly embossed circle on the throttle quadrant).

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    A really great entry and ditto start, my friend @inflames! Cockpit looks superb!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Great entry and ditto start, Sebastijan @inflames
    The cockpit does indeed look amazing.

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    Sebastijan Videc said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Thanks guys!

    Let's take a look at the KM-1M ejection seat. As I'll be doing a 1980s Soviet bird, the seat was painted in blue-grey colour with light grey textile covers, which had a tendency to dirty up during the use.

    The kit seat is made out of several plastic parts, photo-etched harnesses and a couple of stencil decals for the headrest.

    The footrests were a bit thick, so I sanded them lightly. The trickiest part however is building the main harness. It is made of 3 parts - the central crossed straps plus the over the shoulder straps. Catch is that you actually have to guide certain straps of the central part through the small half-loops on the shoulder ones.

    My initial thought was - hey let's anneal this thing and the brass will be soft enough to make this happen. So I lit the small tea candle and as soon as I approached the flame with the part, it immediately turned bright orange and part of it fell away... WOW! So I tried another one carefully and again the part wanted to deform, but I was fast enough to save it. I am not sure what kind of material ClearProp used for this etching but be aware. I eventually rebuilt the lost part of the strap and somehow covered and bent the rest.


    Apart from that incident, painting and weathering went smooth and I got a really nice looking seat in the end.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Excellent progress, my friend @inflames! Nasty PE material!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    That seat looks impressive this way, Sebastijan @inflames.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Cockpit and seat look really nice, especially in this scale. Well done, Sebastijan @inflames.

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    Sebastijan Videc said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Thank you Spiros, John and George. I am already building further subassemblies for the kit, before I had to an almost two week holidays - expect next progress upgrade on Monday!

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    Sebastijan Videc said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Hey guys!

    As promised a new finished sub assembly of this build - the exhaust pipe.


    The interior of the exhaust pipe is made of three main pieces. I don't really like such arrangement as it will inevitably leave three seam lines down the tube, which are next to impossible to remove without loosing detail. And as you can see, the detail is exquisite. Unfortunately the many little holes are not afterburner nozzles as I've though initially, but actually green painted domed rivets or something similar. The nozzles themselves are actually even tinier but not represented by the model. The flame holder that you can see are actually made of 3 PE parts carefully bent to get the required 3D shape.


    Dryfit of the three pieces showing the nastiest of the seams. I guess it won't be as noticable when glued and hidden in the dark shadows of the exhaust 😀


    Remember my first experience with annealing Clearprop's brass? Well for this round ring around the inner exhaust nozzle, I just had to use annealing. Armed with slightly thicker piece than with seatbelts and knowing the potential danger, I cautiously approached the open flame with this part and then quickly quenched it in a glass of water. And it worked! No damage to the brass and it became silky smooth to bend in circular shape.


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    With the whole assembly completed I was really satisfied with the result. The PE made flame holder, fit perfectly as did the inner nozzle with that PE ring. I've painted that green and played with oils to give it that scorched burned look - I've used White, Starship Filth, Buff and Payne's Grey oil paints for the effects.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Very nice result on the exhaust pipe, Sebastijan @inflames

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Great job on the exhaust pipe, my friend @inflames!

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Nice work on the exhaust, Sebastijan @inflames. It appears that the annealing worked well. I used to anneal metal parts a lot, but haven't felt the need to do it for a while, but it sure makes things easier to bend. Not a big fan of constructing tube (exhausts) that are in 3 sections, but yours came out perfectly.

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    Steven Corvi said 1 year, 4 months ago:

    Great work That kit looks real nice!

    Steve,

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    Sebastijan Videc said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    Thank you, guys!

    With holidays done and dusted for a small progress update
    Front wheel well features nice details and goes together really well.


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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 3 months ago:

    The front wheel well looks really nice, my friend @inflames!