I was lazy, so I didn't do as much as I could. I've decided to not go with black basing/marbling as I usually do, but put flat colours on a light grey primer. This gives me the base for further colorisation with oils. I made it once with this model – https://imodeler.com/2021/01/arado-ar-68-e-roden-1-48/ After the paint had dried the model was sanded with P1200 water sandpaper to remove small artefacts, and give a basic light worn effect.

Looking super, my friend @starfar!

Looks great, Dmitry (@starfar). The colors and masks have worked out well. I really like that small sliver of camo under the plane at the wing root. I have been experimenting with my wife's cutter and like using the masks it makes, as long as the surface is fairly flat. It doesn't work well over surfaces that have a lot of raised detail. Finding the right fonts is sometimes a problem. It looks like the masks have really worked out well for this plane. Well done.

Thank you, friends!

@holzhamer You're right, Pedro. That's my try to do this things differently. Funny thing here – I was always starting painting, decals, weathering, etc. from bottom to top surfaces. This resulted in a situation when I was putting more attention and efforts into bottom surfaces, which are visible on a one photo in a resulting post. This time I've changed the flow, so I'll do the oils from top to bottom.

@gblair Thanks, George! I was trying to avoid that camo underneath, but photos proved that it was so. Don't know why, and my only assumption is that fuselage and wings were painted separately. I use two types of paper with my cutter – vinyl Oramask 810 and yellow kabuki paper. Kabuki is good for something like canopy masks, where you have curvy surfaces, and vinyl for lettering. And several times I didn't find a font, so I was used to repaint symbols in an editor.

@airbum Thank you, Erik for pointing at the right RAF font!

The effect is very realistic, my friend @starfar!

Nice work with the oils, Dmitry @starfar.
My experience is also that pictures reveal more than you would like to see, though most of the imperfections are small and still repairable.

First of all I would like to thank you for your comments. It helps me a lot with the build, and keeps me working on it.

@gblair Yes, George, kabuki paper is much more expensive, but I use it occasionally, only when needed. As of today I still have 4 and a half sheets out of 5 from AMMO (AMIG8043). Mostly it was canopies and masks for curvy surfaces.

What I like most about oils is that you can remove it and start once again in a case of some issues. And blending of course.

I've finished with a "wash" on the upper surfaces, and next I would like to fix it with a satin coat, so all other oil layers would not interfere with each other. Or I'll move to the bottom surfaces before the satin. Anyway, I will leave it at least for tomorrow to check everything once again before moving to a next step whatever it would be. I'm not sure about the final result, and I'm treating this as an experiment. My current assumption is that it's too much of a contrast, but will see. Intermediate steps may look suspicious.

Looks really great, my friend @Starfar!