SB2U-1 (Academy/Accurate Miniatures 1/48)

Started by Dmitry Stropalov · 19 · 2 years ago · accurateminiatures, SB2U, Vindicator
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    Dmitry Stropalov said 3 years ago:

    Hi everybody!

    Recently I've got this one:

    I'm completely not familiar with the subject, so I did quick research (forums, articles, reviews). And I've realized that it could be problematic to build a Chesapeake, because of missing guns ejector chutes, and because of the absence of a windscreen without a port for a gun sight. Also, I can't see the crew armor which was added on U-3 and export versions I think.

    My current intention is to build an SB2U-1 or -2 version in a colorful pre-war scheme. Ejector chutes should be moved to another wing anyway, but I've found Techmod decals with PE parts especially for that. The next thing which should be fixed is framing on the canopy part. It should be removed:

    I'm not sure what to do with the ribbing on the wing parts. I agree with all of the reviewers who stated that it's a little bit overdone. Maybe I will just remove it completely or will add some slacks:

    Fortunately, fuselage parts of my kit don't have sink marks on the fabric imitation:

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years ago:

    A great entry, my friend @starfar!
    Removing those transparency framing is a particular job that your great skills can carry out excellently. Yes the ribbing looks tad overdone.
    This is a kit I really like, planning to buy one some day.
    Looking forward to your progress!

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    Dmitry Stropalov said 3 years ago:

    @fiveten Thanks Spiros!

    The next thing which is not clear to me at the moment is the "aluminum dope" lacquer. Was it used for the metal parts as well, so the early birds were not NMF actually?

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years ago:

    A wonderful kit, Dmitry @starfar
    Could you maybe reduce the ribbing with grinding, currently indeed overdone.
    Looking forward to how you deal with this framing on the canopy.

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    Dmitry Stropalov said 3 years ago:

    @johnb Yeah, canopy would be an interesting task! I'm currently thinking about using black Milliput for that.

    And another unclear moment – rear armament. Is it M2 or M1919?

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years ago:

    Dmitry, @starfar

    This does look very nice ! Some of the Accurate Miniatures kits were released with small sink marks in the fabric surfaces on the rear portion of the fuselage. It seems the quality control is much better in the Academy release. A fellow Imodeler name Chuck Villanueva @uscusn
    built one of these as part of a group build we had several years ago titled "The Battle of Midway". I'll see if I can find it and post a link to how he went about his build. He included a lot of pictures and great descriptions.

    From what I have read, the US Navy aircraft were painted and not a NMF. This was done to help protect them from salt water corrosion. Since they used aluminum colored dope on the fabric control surfaces, they matched the fuselage paint using something ( a lacquer paint I believe) that was a very close match.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years ago:

    That didn't take too long. This build journal is definitely worth reading. There are a few problem areas going from memory.

    https://imodeler.com/groups/75th-anniversary-battle-of-midway-group-build/forum/topic/accurate-miniatures-sb2u-3-vindicator-usmc-vmsb-241capt-richard-fleming/

    Hope this helps.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years ago:

    The rear armament should be a single M1919 .030 caliber MG

    There are also some great pictures of one that is on display at the US Navy's Museum of Aviation in Pensacola on their website.

    http://www.navalaviationmuseum.org/nnam/virtualtour/?s=pano725

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    Dmitry Stropalov said 3 years ago:

    @lgardner Thanks, Louis! Now I need to find the proper aftermarket M1919, and go through the Chuck's build, thanks again!

    Getting back to the colors.

    Number 10 is going to be my prototype, so what is on the photo – aluminum lacquer or some grey color?

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    John Healy said 3 years ago:

    Aluminum lacquer, Dmitry. BTW, Tamiya Camel Yellow in the spray can is a perfect match for the USN chrome yellow wings.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years ago:

    Looking forward to your build, Dmitry (@starfar). The paint scheme you have chosen will look great.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years ago:

    Dmitry
    I was thinking about the weapons again and I wanted to share this with you. It seems that the early planes, SB2U-1 and SB2U-2 had the .030 caliber weapons. On the SB2U-3 they had the .050 caliber MG’s.

    Here’s what I was able to grab for you online.


    Hopefully this will clear up any questions you might have had.

    I really like the paint scheme you picked out. Anything wearing a “yellow wings” scheme is a favorite of mine. I’m definitely looking forward to seeing your next update.

    I have been thinking about starting up another group build called Yellow Wings. I have several old Monogram TBD Devastator kits, some of the Accurate Miniatures F2F’s, F3F’s, and a few more Vindicators and SBD’s. Toss in some of the larger 1/32 Hasegawa kits of the P-26, P-12, Goshawk and some others and you can see why I am looking at doing it.

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    Dmitry Stropalov said 3 years ago:

    @lgardner Thank you again, Louis! Your research confirms that I need M1919 barrel for the rear MG.

    Currently I'm waiting for the PE parts for the interior to arrive, and in the meantime I was doing a dry fitting. And still I'm think what to do with the ribbing 🙂

    Yellow wings are great, and it's a kind of a challenge, because yellow and red colors are hard to paint properly, and weather afterwards. Earlier this year I was trying to build a resin F2F-1 in 1/48, but I've gave up because of issues with the kit itself. And I would like to have P-26 in 1/32 some day.

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years ago:

    You might be able to mask off the fabric covered control surfaces and then either give them a very light sanding using very fine sand paper, or possibly even spray them with a thick filler, followed up by the fine sanding.

    I would even consider leaving them as is and just go with what is there. I have seen several completed models where the builder simply left them alone, and they still look acceptable. They should be painted the same aluminum color as the rest of the airframe, with the exception of the upper surfaces of the ailerons, which are yellow.

    I'm sure that whatever route you take, it will look exceptional.

    When painting yellow, first I usually paint the parts using white, using it as a base for the yellow color. Otherwise it seems the yellow is often too translucent and a very hard color to get proper coverage with.

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 2 years, 12 months ago:

    Real good choice Dmitry, have not peeked into the Academy mouldings of the Vindicator. Hopefully the same quality of plastic used when AM popped them. Though Academy does have some excellent kits of their own, so most likely their re-pop will be of the same quality. If so, then be ready for a build that will need some patience. The interior is quite detailed. Lots of bits and pieces within. Louis's research already give as well as the advice of others will help along the way. I enjoyed the kit, it was fun and not so engineered like a Trumpy, Hobby Boss or Kitty Hawk kit. Reason as everything fits. While at times the others you get into a struggle and becomes quite challenging. This kit is a bit so as well but not overwhelming. In the end it is a journey with some adventure and leaves you fulfilled. Looking forward to your progress.