Silver Spitfire from 601 sqd (Spitfire IXc from AZ-Model)

Started by capt. R · 199 · 3 years ago
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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Great step on this PE work, Lis @lis
    Unfortunately I have no experience with Mr Paint, mainly using Vallejo currently.
    How about Vallejo 71.342 (Russian Light Blue). Seems to be not that far off.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Sorry, @lis, Mr Paint is really hard to get here, so I also have no experience using it. I use Tamiya and AK Real Colors, both of which I really like.

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    capt. R said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @johnb @gblair thank you for your answer. Mr Paint have my e-hobby shop. I need to buy this paint from photo. XF-23 is more pale I think.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    I just went over to Britmodeler.com, and their consensus is that High Altitude Blue is a color between PRU Blue and Azure Blue, perhaps closer to Azure than PRU. Good luck.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    No experience on this brand, either, my friend @lis...
    Just go for it and see!

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    capt. R said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @fiveten @gblair It was directly RAF Sky:
    https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/69250-raf-sky-blue/page/2/
    http://www.dkdecals.cz/SpitHF_navod1.jpg
    painting no 10 and 11, probably MR Paint MRP-379 (BS697)
    late standard Painting Was Medium seagrey and PRU Blue.

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    capt. R said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @fiveten @j-healy @johnb @gblair @airbum

    second attempt...

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Looks super, my friend @lis!

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    capt. R said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @fiveten
    I have now used a thicker yellow paint to make it dry better. Normally the paint should reach hardness after 24 hours. After last prop painting theory misses the practice...

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Some older modelers used a "rule of thumb": do not touch a painted model surface, until it stops smelling. I am not sure if it is applicable to acrylics, though, my friend @lis, as they do not smell?

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    capt. R said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @fiveten I use laquer paints.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Lacquers do smell, my friend @lis!
    So, this might be not a bad idea after all!
    I have also noticed that some (enamel) shades take longer to cue than others, this usually happening to gloss shades: for example, Humbrol 220 Gloss "Ferrari" red takes ages to cure...

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    capt. R said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @fiveten @j-healy @johnb @gblair @airbum

    NMF painting. well as usual I have some comments about my work. The first conclusions are as follows: the KP set is assembled and painted, despite some problems, such as the fairing, better than the AZ model presented in this thread. Despite frustrating filling and sanding, some seam marks can be seen. Paradoxically, a lot more work was done with the engine air filter under its housing. The tropical version turned out better in my opinion! The type of material in the model is not without influence. It seemed better to me at first glance. However, a certain porosity of the material is visible in my opinion on the metallic finish, even after a good black primer. But I cannot say a bad word about Super Fine Metalic Silver II. It overlapped perfectly. Perhaps everything will smooth out a little more after the clearcoat...

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    capt. R said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @fiveten I have the impression that the laquer paints stink even after drying for a while, so it's hard to say. We'll see, maybe the thicker paint will work better.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    My friend @ Lis, I think you are a bit rigorous to yourself, since your NMF is perfect!
    Regarding lacquers curing, I believe that patience is the only solution...