Special Hobby 1/48 Martin Model 167F-A.3 (Martin Maryland)

Started by George R Blair Jr · 97 · 4 years ago · 1/48, Martin 167, Martin Maryland, Special Hobby
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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks, Jaime (@jetmex), and welcome to this weird build. The engines have been interesting. The Quickboost resin engines actually had small holes in the crankcase where each of the pushrods should go, which greatly simplified the positioning of the rods. I have used Future for resin, but usually in places where I don't think there will be any stress. I use super glue in places where I think strength might be needed. On the engines I was afraid my positioning efforts might pop the pushrods off, so I went for superglue.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks, Chuck (@uscusn). I am usually not much of a research or detail guy, but this kit was a little different. I have always liked the Bismarck story, and this plane's involvement made me want to get it right. After having taught history in junior college, I was a little frustrated at not being able to find definitive info about this plane, but it does highlight the fact that our firsthand sources for WW2 are almost all gone now.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Today was glass day. I had previously fitted the pilot's canopy, so I hoped to get the rest of the glass glued on and the masks applied. After finding the pilot's glass was a perfect fit, I had high hopes for the rest of the glass. Unfortunately, all the rest required some degree of cutting, sanding, fitting, or bending.

    The first task was to add the upper glass on the bombardier's section. This replacement piece fit much better than the original one, but was still too wide and required some bending to fit. I started by gluing one side in place and letting it dry solid. I then used tape and a homemade jig to hold the other side in place while the glue dried. It worked great.



    The belly window was significantly too wide for its location in the fuselage, so after removing a lot of clear plastic and reshaping the curves it fit fine.

    The rest of the windows were a little more of a challenge. Although they were designed to be added after the fuselage was closed up, there were no tabs inside the fuselage to prevent the glass from going all the way through. I added a homemade masking tape handle to each so I could control the glass a little better as I was gluing them in place. All of the glass pieces required a certain amount of cut and paste, but eventually ended up fitting well.


    There were two small oblong windows in the rear of the fuselage. The glass pieces were much too large for their intended location, and I found the glass too small to effectively shape while holding in my fat fingers. I took a vote and decided to simulate the glass after painting the plane using Microscale liquid glass, or something similar.

    It was now time to add the rounded nose glass to the bombardier's section. I was afraid after all of the drama with the upper bombardier's glass that the nose wouldn't fit well, but it was a perfect fit.

    Last glass to add was the leading edge landing lights on each wing. The recess in the wing was a separate piece that was painted cockpit green. A round clear piece, simulating the lamp was added next. This was followed by the glass piece that fit into the leading edge. Once the light is assembled it really looks the part.


    After letting all of this dry for a while, I added the Montex masks to the glass. These masks are made of a relatively flexible black latex material. They work well enough, but I really think Eduard's masking tape masks work better. Several of the masks were too small for the section they were to cover, so I had to add some Tamiya tape to fill in.


    The last thing I did was check for cracks between the fuselage and glass, or between two glass pieces that might need filling. I always fill anything around the cockpit or other glass pieces with white glue, which dries clear. If you use white or gray filler there is a chance it will show on the inside of the cockpit (ask me how I know).

    As you might guess, after the fuselage is closed up, you can't see any of the detailed rear fuselage interior. Oh well, I know its there. Tomorrow I will add a few last bits, and then start on the painting. First will be painting the interior color on the glass so the correct color will appear on the inside of the glass frames. Then on to the exterior color, which will be a game-time decision. Stay safe.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    That's a wonderful progress, George @gblair! The clear parts look really good! I too use white glue to fiil transparencies. Works great!
    I love the landing light too!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    What an impressive progress on this glasswork, George @gblair.
    Love the idea to first paint the transparant part with interior color.
    Always tried to paint the in side by hand which was not always that successfull.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    George (@gblair), you are turning into a real Glassioligist here! Well done with all the intricate shapes and whatnots. I like the progressed plane a lot.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and Erik (@airbum).

    Thanks, John (@JohnB). I have tried hand-painting both the inside and outside of canopy frames with limited success. If you use acrylics to hand-paint, you can usually use a toothpick after it is dry to clean up the frames without damaging the canopy glass. Using a toothpick on a canopy you have used Future on is probably not a good idea. I think it looks better to spray the canopy as part of the plane, you just need to remember to paint the interior color first. Of course, doing it this way means you have to mask the canopy, which I hate. That is why I usually won't build a plane unless I can find a pre-made canopy mask set for it. The idea of making my own masks for a T-6 trainer or a Vindicator keeps me awake at night.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Today is painting day. The first thing I had to do was decide what paint scheme to use. Since my research could not turn up a definitive answer, I wanted to apply a little logic. The two most likely options are either Temperate Land Scheme (TLS), which was used by the RAF, or Temperate Sea Scheme (TSS), which was used by the Fleet Air Arm. The plane I am modeling started out in the RAF, but was then given to the FAA to use. I figure the plane was probably sent to the FAA in RAF camouflage, or the TLS of Dark Brown and Dark Green over Sky. I suppose the FAA could have repainted the plane in TSS, but early in the war I think they would have had other priorities and simply left the plane in TLS. So, my plan is to depict the plane in a faded Temperate Land Scheme.

    I started by spraying the cockpit color over all the glass parts that I had previously masked. I discovered that the main canopy that I though fit perfectly needed some more work to blend it in. A little more filler and sanding, and I was ready to go.

    I started with the Sky color on the bottom of the plane. I prefer to post shade as I go, but the way I do it is almost a combination of pre-shading and post-shading. I started by spraying some Sky from AK Real Color onto the plane, diluted about 40% with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. Real Color dries very quickly, so I could move onto the marbling steps. I first lighten the Sky color with some white, then dilute it with about 60-70% thinner (almost a wash). Using about 12 psi, I spray an irregular pattern on the previously painted areas. When this is done, I darkened the sky with some dark green, thinned it to wash consistency, and then sprayed it along panel lines and other obvious shadow areas. When you finish the two marbling steps, the contrast can look a little stark. The last step ties it all together. I take the original Sky color, dilute it to a wash, and then spray a light coat over everything. This decreases the contrast and hopefully makes into one harmonious whole. The Zen of painting. :o)



    Before I mask the Sky color in preparation for the painting of the upper surfaces, I like to let it dry overnight. I haven't had any trouble with tape pulling up the paint since I started using AK Real Colors, but I don't want to take any chances. Tomorrow I should be able to get a least one of the top colors done. Till then, everyone stay safe.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    This is such a nice painting technique, George @gblair! The result looks "real".
    Waiting for topsides painting!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Fantastic results, George.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Looking great! I still have to come to terms with acrylic paints, but after seeing your description I might give it a try again one day.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten), Erik (@airbum), and John (@JohnB).

    Today was painting day Part 2. It was time to move on to the upper surfaces. I wanted to try a couple of different techniques to see how they would turn out. My sources, as meager as they are, all state that the demarcation between the Sky and the upper colors is a hard line, so I masked all of the lower surfaces using Tamiya tape before I painted the upper surfaces.

    I started with the brown/tan color using RAF Dark Earth from AK Real Colors. This color is lighter than what I usually use for Dark Earth, so we will see how it looks. I added a few drops of white, and then thinned the paint using Tamiya Lacquer thinner until I had a fairly thin mix. I painted the entire upper surface of the plane with the brown. Following the base coat, I mixed a very light (almost white) mix of the original brown. I added lacquer thinner until it was almost the consistency of a wash. I sprayed this light mix in a random pattern, mainly in the center of panels and on areas that would catch light. When this was done, I mixed a dark version of the original brown color, again diluted to the consistency of a wash. This dark color was applied mainly to panel lines and areas that would catch shadows. You can apply all of these coats one right after the other thanks to the quick drying time of the AK paint. The results are pretty stark at this point, but never fear, we fix that next. For the last step, I create a mix of dark brown and a little white, again diluted to the consistency of a wash. Lightly spray this last wash over all of the brown surfaces until you are happy with the effect. This coat serves to tie all of the previous layers together.





    I wanted to try something slightly different for the green color. I thought about making masks for the camouflage, or using tape to create the different parts of the camo, but in the end I decided to airbrush the camo freehand. I don't really like freehanding stuff, but it would have been a chore to create the masks. Yes, I am lazy. I started out by diluting Tamiya XF-81, RAF Dark Green 2, with about 40% Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. I set the pressure on my compressor to around 14 psi and freehanded the first layer of the green camo. When this was done, I mixed some Tamiya XF-4, Yellow Green, with the RAF Dark Green to create a very light green with a definite yellow tint. As before, I thinned this to a wash, and then sprayed it into the centers of the panels. Finally, I created a really dark green by mixing the RAF Dark Green 2 with a little black, thinned it to a wash, and then sprayed this color on the panel lines and into shadow areas. I don't plan to spray a unifying layer over the green simply because I was worried about controlling the wash as I sprayed it and keeping it between the lines.


    I figure I will let it sit overnight, and then reassess how it looks. Overall I like the way it looks, although the brown still looks too light. The decals will serve to tie things together, as will the weathering that will eventually be added. The weathering will also darken things a bit. So, a three hour paint session and one extremely hot compressor has moved me a little closer to completion.

    Cheers.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Real nice effects that you achieved, and even free handed, George @gblair
    Final results are coming together perfectly.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    I love your painting approach and execution George @gblair!
    I bet the decalling and weathering will produce a totally realistic result!
    Eagerly waiting!
    P.S. I have also read (almost everywhere) that RAF demarcation lines were hard, this trying to be depicted by most modelers. (Very personally) I think that a tight freehand camo looks very realistic too.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    George (@gblair), I like the result of all your hard work (and the hard work of the compressor). Well done my friend!