Special Hobby 1/48 Martin Model 167F-A.3 (Martin Maryland)

Started by George R Blair Jr · 97 · 4 years ago · 1/48, Martin 167, Martin Maryland, Special Hobby
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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Well, this has been an interesting day. After finishing the painting yesterday, I thought the brown color was too light. The color still looked too light this morning, so I decided to repaint the brown. Since I was going to repaint anyway, I decided I wanted to fix some areas around the canopy that needed some more work with filler, and I needed to adjust some of the green patterns in the camouflage.

    I had freehanded some of the green areas too small, so I corrected these areas using the same painting process I originally used. For the repainting of the brown, I decided I wanted to try some AK tape that is designed for curves. This product is a vinyl tape that is very flexible and I was able to create the patterns I needed on the plane so that I could get a sharp demarcation between the brown and green. I masked off the green areas of the plane, and then set about to find the right color for the brown. I wanted a darker brown, so I chose to use Tamiya Flat Brown. I used the same process as I did for the green, starting with a base color, then adding a lighter tone in various places, and then adding a darker tone over the panel lines.

    When I pulled off the tape, I discovered that the brown was too dark. It looked fine in the bottle, but apparently dried darker. This is why I almost never go back and re-do camouflage, because I always seem to over-compensate in my adjustments. So, I went from too light to too dark. My first inclination was to just accept the color, but I figured I had one more re-do in me. This time I used Tamiya Earth Brown. I used the same process again, starting with a base color, then a light color in the panels, and a darker color on the panel lines. I chose not to use another roll of masking tape and free-handed the camouflage. Finally done, I think this color is much closer to what I have been searching for. I can truthfully say that this is the first model I have painted three times. I guess its a good thing that the paint goes on really thin.

    I plan to let it dry overnight, then add the gloss coat in anticipation of the decals. I am finally approaching the end of this build, which means there hopefully aren't too many more things that can go wrong with this build. Yeah!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Looking very nice indeed, George @gblair! The main thing is that you opt for the result that will satisfy you. For us followers, it's nice to follow your approaches, decisions and implementations.Pure modeling joy, I would say!
    Waiting for you decals on this really nice build!

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    What a trip! - The thin paint seems to be a great way to go - really looking forward to the rest of this very interesting build!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    What a perseverance. Not giving up until you are really satisfied.
    It for sure yielded in a fantastic paintjob, George @gblair

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten), Erik (@airbum), and John (@JohnB). I haven't really had trouble before matching colors. For some reason, this time I compared the color in the paint cup on my airbrush to the paint chip I was using and then they were significantly different after spraying and drying. By the way, I found a really great website for paint colors, etc. I figure I am the last one at the dance and everyone already knows about this website, but here it is:

    http://www.theworldwars.net

    Go to the Resources Section, and you can find colors for camouflage schemes, along with a chart that has the specific color needed from a wide variety of paint manufacturers.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Hi George @gblair! This is a wonderful site!
    Thanks for info!

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    David Mills said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Apologies George! I am only catching up with this thread after a few days away. In terms of colour schemes, I think that you have got it about right - I find there is often no definitive evidence, or answer - so you do some research, and come up with something that seems plausible for the time and the aircraft and the theatre - you've certainly done that.
    Fantastic work on the glass work George - excellent!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks for the info George.
    This will for sure help me with my current P40, and future projects.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks, John (@JohnB). Thanks, David (@davem), I'm glad you are here. I have always thought of the Temperate Land Scheme as being fairly straight-forward. Brown and green, how hard can it be? But my experience here shows that getting the right mix of colors can be a challenge. I put the decals on today and they seem to pull things together. I will post some photos later.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    I managed to get some work done today. I had previously sprayed Tamiya Clear Gloss on the areas that would get the decals, and it had dried overnight. The decals all come from a variety of sets of decals I already had. There are no roundels on the underside of the wings, so the decals consisted of two wing roundels, two fuselage roundels, fin flashes on the vertical stabilizer, and the aircraft serial number on the rear fuselage. I am sure the actual airplane had a lot of stencils and other markings, but I decided not to try to simulate any markings since they would be a shot in the dark. The decals all went on without trouble using MicroSet and MicroSol. I let the decals dry for 12 hours and then covered the airframe with Tamiya Clear Flat.

    I let the Tamiya Flat dry for several hours and then added the weathering. I wanted to depict a plane that had spent some time in the sun and in an atmosphere saturated with salty air. I planned to use an off-white artist oil called "Linen". The method is pretty simple (as long as you have a rock-solid clear coat). The first step is to strategically apply dots of the linen paint in areas to receive the weathering.

    I let the paint dry for a few minutes, and then use a wide brush damp with mineral spirits to begin to gradually move the paint where you want it to get your desired effects. Always dragging the brush in the direction of airflow, I start out with a single pass of the brush over the surface.

    After each pass with the brush, be sure to wipe off any paint on the brush with a paper towel. My second pass over the surface establishes how I want the surface to look. I keep gently moving the paint around using the mineral spirits until I am happy with the effect. The mineral spirits dry flat, so no need to worry about messing up your flat coat.

    After I got all of the surfaces done, I used a similar technique using a dark gray oil paint to add some oil and fuel leaks on the plane. I use a little reddish brown to simulate hydraulic leaks near the landing gear.

    The last thing I did was apply some very thin black using my airbrush to add some exhaust stains. While I had the airbrush out I applied some gunpowder staining around the wing-mounted machine guns. I think it is so cool that this bomber had wing-mounted machine guns that I couldn't miss highlighting their locations.

    Well, that's it for now. The last things to do include adding all of the little fiddly bits to the plane and removing the masks. Everyone stay safe.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Superb looking weathering, George @gblair
    Till now I haven't tried the oil paint weathering, but looking at your results I will definitely try on my next build. Thanks for explaining your approach.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Looking great George (@gblair)!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    That's great, George @gblair. Excellent weathering techniques, very successful result!
    Onto the final construction now!

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Well, it's finally done. As usual with this build, there were a couple of set-backs. I had just finished the build, when I realized I had forgotten to add the pitot tube to the left wing. I was quickly added, but I needed to paint it. I use lacquer thinner to clean my brushes. As I was moving the brush to the thinner, I accidentally dropped it into the thinner, which promptly splashed onto the tail of the plane. I was smart enough not to touch the area until it was dry, but the lacquer thinner had bleached the color out of the paint. So this was quickly repaired and re-weathered. So, I set up the area I use for photography and took the pictures of the finished plane. I was getting ready to load the photos into iModeler when I realized I hadn't glued the gear doors on. I deleted the photos from my phone and glued the gear doors on. So, another set of photos and I am getting ready to upload again when I realize I didn't remove the masks from the landing lights. Delete photos again, remove masks, and retake photos again. This time I think I am truly done. So, here are the photos of the finished model. I hope you all enjoyed the build.

    9 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Looks wonderful, George @gblair!
    About the finalizing issues, it happens to me all the time! Guess it's the excitement of a model completion, a feeling that accompanies me since my first builds.
    Thanks for the ride, George! I enjoyed every part of it!