Yak-9T by ICM, 1/32, 2022 new tool

Started by Dmitry Stropalov · 37 · 2 years ago
  • Profile Photo
    Dmitry Stropalov said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Hi,

    I'm trying to get myself back to the hobby. And I was looking for something relatively easy to build and paint. And the new tool Yak-9T by ICM in 32 scale has appeared just in time. So here it is.

    The kit offers two options when it comes about engine – with and without the upper cowling. I've decided to not show the engine, and started with the cockpit. Seat belts by Eduard, originally designed for the SH Yak-3 kit.


  • Profile Photo
    Dmitry Stropalov said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    The kit goes very well, except two engineering choices which cause problems. First one is the wing root fairing, where the seam line goes exactly through its center. Not a good place for filling and sanding. The second one was a bit unexpected – windscreen armor part, which should be glued from inside. I've tried several times but without any luck – either clear glue was still visible or it was some artifacts. So, I've decided to try once again after the painting and final assembly.

    4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    Dmitry Stropalov said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Yak was primed with the Mr.Surfacer 1500 and I've started painting. For now, I've applied AMT-7 for the lower surfaces. It will be a challenge from the visual perspective – there are not much details on the wings, as they are mostly plywood without much panel lines, etc. The fuselage wouldn't help as well 🙂

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    John Healy said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Thanks for sharing this, Dmitry. It’s stuff like this that tempts me to build one in 1/32. Nice work.

  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Great entry and excellent progress sofar, my friend @starfar!

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Looks very good, Dmitry (@starfar). The cockpit looks really cool. For your glass situation, have you tried something like Just Like Glass from Deluxe Materials, or perhaps even Future (if you can get it)?

  • Profile Photo
    Dmitry Stropalov said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Thank you mates!

    George, regarding the windscreen – I've tried several gloss lacquers (AK's Gauzy, Vallejo, etc.), and the common issue I've got is some "smoke" which appears between two clear parts after drying. Don't know why.

  • Profile Photo
    Bill Koppos said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Nice interior work. The "marbling" should help with the visuals. Got to get me one of these.

  • Profile Photo
    Christopher C Tew said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Dmitry, does the geometry of the canopy parts allow you to put the joining material, white glue or gloss liquids, only on the edges of the armored glass such as where it touches the main canopy at the very top or bottom? It sounds to me as though your are putting the joining liquid on too large of a surface or that capillary action is drawing an excess of liquid between the armored glass and the windscreen where it is not needed. If this is the case, a longer drying time might see the graying go away, but I suppose you've thought of that, so I'd try to use a minimum of liquid on as small a surface as possible, especially if that small application can be hidden at a frame that will be painted later..

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Your re-entering this hobby very well, Dmitry @starfar
    Great progress so far.

  • Profile Photo
    Dmitry Stropalov said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    Chris, I've tried to do that, but the framing is relatively thinn, and glue is visible. But you're right, after the windscreen has been installed, now it will be possible to glue the armour at the very bottom using some clear/white glue, and it shouldn't be visible. I will try it once I pull off the masks after the painting.

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 1 month ago:

    This is an interesting problem, Dmitry (@starfar). I haven't seen this with a kit before. I think you are correct that if the edges dry first, that it seals the inside of the glass and leaves it milky. I think your solution of using a small dot of Future or white glue at the top and bottom may be the answer.

  • Profile Photo
    Dmitry Stropalov said 2 years ago:

    I was off for a couple of days, but I've managed to finish the camouflage colours. Finally.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    Pedro L. Rocha said 2 years ago:

    Fantastic work so far Dmitry, that cockpit is top notch. What paint are you using for the camo?

  • Profile Photo
    Tom Cleaver said 2 years ago:

    @starfar - have you tried Micro Kyrstal-Klear, just a couple drops around the edges of the armored glass? that's what I did with the internal glass on the Tamiya P-38F.