VW type 82E, Tamiya 1/48 FINISHED!

Started by Erik Gjørup · 79 · 1 year ago · 1/48, airbum, beetle, car, civil, Haldværk, interwar, käfer, Tamiya, typ 82, vehicle, VW
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    Michel Verschuere said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Sorry for this @airbum real bummer indeed. Dont try acetone though, it will damage the plastic. Alcohol and rubbing should do I think. Time to change your old toothbrush by coincidence? Take care my friend, my fingers are crossed for you!

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Erik: The secret to removing acrylic paint is easy. Just soak the whole VW body in cheap regular ammonia, sudsy or otherwise . Works quickly and easy as can be and will not harm the plastic. Blue window cleaner that has ammonia in it (Windex) works well too but takes a bit longer.

    Do not use acetone or lacquer thinner as it will melt the plastic. Stay away from oven cleaners.

    No need to use brake fluid, in fact, don't bother as it’s toxic (but so is lacquer thinner).

    Clean your airbrush every time you change acrylic colors with water or lacquer thinner. Don’t let the acrylic dry inside your airbrush nozzle. I run my brush under running water until it blows clean but I have a utility sink next to my airbrush station making it really easy.

    If it does dry, take it apart and soak the parts in lacquer thinner and then clean.

    The above info only applies to acrylic paints.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    I thought it was acryl...
    Then, it's easy: brake fluid

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 4 months ago:
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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Road accident

    I’m afraid I have made a mess

    When I made a mess of the paint when airbrushing, I panicked – or something (forgot to think?). Immediately after realizing the paintjob was going to be a mess, I emptied the airbrush, filled it with thinner, and sprayed the lot on the car.

    Not one of my brightest ideas. The end result can be seen in my previous pictures.




    Well, thanks to the advice here, I stripped the paint off using Alcohol, and that not only took the paint but the primer as well. Now my poor beetlebody looks like it has been wrinkled by being wet for too long (not in the alcohol, mind you)

    Thank you for all the positive vibes people – and sound advice all of you - Michel (@Michel-verschuere), Eric (@eb801) and Spiros (@fiveten). I think I knew how not to in theory, now I know in practicality too. Seems like a lot of sanding may have to follow this post

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Erik: Soak that body one more time in ammonia. Just try it. I have been using acrylics for since the 70's both for modeling and for work. Forget using alcohol. It just doesn't work nearly as well as ammonia. I think you will be able to get that body looking as good as new, assuming that's wrinkled paint I'm looking at in the above photo and not wrinkled plastic. Ammonia does not harm resin either.

    One more comment. Because you have tried other methods to remove the paint, it is possible ammonia may not work as well it would have if you had started with just that. It is possible the paint could be "etched" so to speak into the plastic.

    Sometimes I have had to remove paint two or three times and repaint to get the finish I am satisfied with. In fact i have some painted wheels soaking in ammonia right now for the second time. After 30 minutes there were completely devoid of paint with a little rubbing and ready for the paint shop again. Like I said, this only works on acrylic which I assume is what you are using here.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Looking forward to see this beauty re-emerging, my friend @airbum!

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Thank you for the encouraging words gents. Sadly it is the plastic that has been hit as I was stupid enough to spray thinner on it and let it sit to remove the paint later. It was enamel, but actually came off nicely with alcohol (IPA). Lesson learned!? It is sadly too far gone to save but may do well as a base for something further down the line. Luckily I have a few of these in the stack, and another body will be used to finish this build - only decision now is wether to try to salvage the woodburner installation and toss the body away or keep it as is and return at a later date.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    A new Body?

    One of the possible solutions is to take a body from another kit.

    Fortunately I have been buying 82E’s whenever I found them at a reasonable price.



    And so I washed another set of trees and have the opportunity to take a body and move onto the running gear of the one I made.

    Unfortunately I have cut off the front to make room for the woodburner, and the resin on the hood is not easily removeable.



    Fortunately the hood came off easily, and I have started sanding and filling and . . .

    You get the picture. Another probable solution is to dump the rear and use yet another resin kit to make a ambulance or reichspost version – or one with a flatbed. . .

    try to search for vw 82e holzbrenner and a lot of possible solutions appear – stay tuned as I sand away

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    A new body it is!

    And the bonnet gets reused – partly!

    Trawling the web, I came across several pictures of some “Holzbrenner”s. I discovered that I would need to make a panelline across the part.


    And add a handle. I had been wondering how they did gain acces to the luggage hold, but this is such a simple solution!

    I started by cutting the old bonnet (is that the correct term?) closely followed by the new one.


    That leaves me with two that actually can be used for something!

    First the new offcut was fitted after which the old one had a fair amount of sanding – and the handle was removed.



    It were then dryfit to the running gear. Does it look like the real thing? I think so.

    And what about that ruined body? Well, I have a CMK pick-up conversion that will see the light of day soon.


    The entire aft part of the body has to be sawn off, and that leaves me with a very easy sanding and filling session – compared to doing it on the entire thing. And the bonnet will be a lot easier to re-do too, as it is 2/3rd new anyway, and the remaining wrinkles will be relatively easy to reach. I could even get some AM resin doors to make life even easier – time will tell. . .

    And with that it is back on track. next up I hope to have had some warmer weather so that I can use my spraybooth again without having to break off ice from the airbrush every other minute – and a new 1/48 VW is waiting just around the corner!

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Erik: well that was an easy fix having those extra kits. I guess I didn't read the fine print that you used enamel and not acrylic after all, so I apologize for going on and on how to remove it. I have never used enamels on any models since i was a kid so I am clueless how to work with them.

    How did that Molotov chrome work for you?

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Back on track, my friend @airbum!
    AND, practically, nothing is thrown away!

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Thank you gents

    Eric (@eb801), no worries - always nice to share tricks! Sadly I still have to get the Molotow in the airbrush, but it seems to be acrylic, and your tips will be used there. I did however try it with a ordinary brush on one of my 109's, and that went wel - with the brush being cleaned well in IPA.

    Spiros (@fiveten), always nice to recycle a kit 🙂

    I am back at work for some days, and next full update will wait till later. I did get to start the next VW before I drove from home this morning, and it went very well. I shall have a think if I will start a topic on it (it seems like the automotive builds are not that interesting to most people here) - stay tuned to check if it appears here.

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 4 months ago:

    Erik: Molotow is indeed acrylic. I keep a Molotow pen around and when I need to use some, I just remove the tip and pour the amount I need into the airbrush cup. No need to thin it. Let dry thoroughly but don’t touch it with your fingers as skin oils will discolor it. Use gloves.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks Eric (@eb801), I will be looking forward to airbrush some Molotow Chrome. I just bought an extra hose, so now I will be adding the Badger 150 to the compressor to enable me to use that one for Acrylics.

    Eric and Spiros (@fiveten) - another update shortly.