Eduard 1/48 Fw 190A-8

Started by Eric Berg · 102 · 3 years ago · Eduard Fw 190A-8, Fw 190A-8
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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    There will never be a totally accurately rendered color shade, my friend @eb801, as is the case in (aviation) reality, where you may get different results by using the same color spec from different manufacturers and so on...

    That is also the case in modeling colors. I use a specific brand all these years, and I even notice tonal differences with different batches! To make a long story short, If you think that the Ammo Mig "violetness" is "correct", all is good. I personally would nevertheless go for it: it's great to have models in your display which will exhibit the different approaches by color manufacturers!

    Regarding the stencils, yes, I seek every opportunity to apply all of them!

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Eric, @eb801
    I completely agree with Spiros, @fiveten
    and his recommendation on the differences in paint colors. I can not speak specifically about the actual color value that you get from using the RLM 75 Mig paint, but I can tell you this...

    When I was in the Army, we occasionally spray painted various tools, like our track jacks or the "Little Joe" or "Tankers Bar" as needed, that we used to maintain our M-60 or M-1 tanks. We also sprayed things like the helmet liners that went underneath the old "Steel Pot" M-1 helmet that we cooked in, shaved from, bathed in, etc., prior to our receiving the new fan dangled "Kevlar" one piece helmets that looked more like a WW2 German Stahlhelm.
    Anyhow, we had "rattle cans" of Olive Drab spray paint issued to us that had the "exact" same NSN (or National Stock Number part number) listed on the side of the spray paint can...these spray cans looked identical in almost every way. (Some had the same Lot number, while others didn't). When it became obvious at just how much variation in color was visible between the different spray cans once sprayed, we were not dinked during inspections for this. I am talking about some of the greens were more brown than green, and it reminded me more of the British WW1 PC-10 aircraft color, while other cans ended up looking more like a Forrest Green color when sprayed, and they matched the new replacement parts very well that we had installed, such as new road wheels or sprockets... Other cans had a more realistic Olive Drab color that we commonly see on our models here. Had I not seen this first hand with my own eyes I wouldn't have believed it. I'm sure that other veterans can tell you a similar story.

    Then if you factor in other variables, such as exposure to UV lighting from the sun while flying at high altitudes, to things like how you would lighten up the original color out of the bottle for the so called "scale effect" that we often hear mentioned. Then toss in things such as how the various paint colors will either fade or otherwise change colors in time due to exposure to the elements while parked on the ground... Well you get the idea I am trying to convey.

    Personally, I try to do my due diligence with color research, and then make an informed decision. Then with current information in hand, sometimes I will refer to my FS color chip book (or whatever is reasonable for the color in question) to get a good idea as to how the color "should" look when new. Then I will try to mix or match something close to this...but it doesn't have to be perfect. Even things such as the lighting you are using can affect how a color is viewed. It becomes even more of a minefield when you are taking pictures or how something appears on a computer screen...

    Then as often my luck will have it... it turns out that the color I have used on a model (that is by now completed), will turn up later as being completely incorrect !

    I can't tell you just how many A6M Zeros I have that are painted with metallic blue cockpits, and light gray overall which is now known to be a huge no no...

    I say paint it the color you like and roll with it. As long as you are happy with the end result, that is all that matters. This is supposed to be fun. Close enough is good enough... especially when it comes to hand grenades ! 🙂 Trying to toss in a little dry humor there... pun intended.

    I plan on finishing up the Ta-154 in the very near future, so please stay tuned for that one... Again I thank you for the help with it.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Eric, please excuse me if my earlier comment sprung some doubts and opened the usual can of worms about colour accuracy, it certainly was not my intention.

    If you pick the same “labelled” colour from 2 different makers you’ll see that they are not equal, that was my point, since my usual go-to brands have different 75 hues 😉

    The one in your Wurger looks much more vivid, kinda like off the factory fresh look. Not better nor worse. Keep it up, eagerly awaiting the finished model. My 190 F is almost done, and now that my summer vacations are ending I’ll be resuming work on the bench

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Pedro, @holzhamer
    I wasn't trying to open the can of worms about colors either, so please don't take it the wrong way. All I was trying to do was provide a positive comment about Eric's choice of colors.

    If this came across the wrong way, it wasn't intended to. If it did, I'm truly sorry, as that was not my intention.

    That's is one of the bad things about internet forums... is that part of our communication process is removed. All we have to see is what is written. We can't see a persons facial expressions, their body language or posture. Plus you can't tell how a person is talking. Are they screaming at you or not ?

    So if what I posted came across the wrong way, believe me it was not intended, and I am sorry if it did.

    So please forgive me if I have offended you. It was not my intention.

    Thanks.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @lgardner
    Louis my friend, I wasn’t even going by yours and Spiros replies, rather from Eric observation about the forum opinion on Ammo’s paints 😉
    It was me who felt my comment could be considered astray from the point. All good mates!

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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Pedro, @holzhamer
    Thanks for the reply... and it's great to hear that we are good to go... I offer you an extended "virtual" hand shake and a great big "thank you".

    I do think that Eric's observations were also spot on. His Wurger is already looking good, and he still has some work left to finish it up. This is going to be a real head turner when he is done.

    BTW, the Dornier 17 is moving up in the build queue, and we just might see the Dragon / DML Ju-188, along with the 1/48 ICM He-111 get finished too. All of these planes, and so little time.

    Stay safe my friends.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Absolutely no can of worms between us, my friends @eb801, @lgardner and @holzhamer : nothing better than expressing thoughts about a subject in a nice modeling company like ours, let alone if such thoughts are expressed by great modelers and, especially, GREAT PEOPLE, as are you guys!

    In fact, the more opinions I hear about such subjects, the better!

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @holzhamer, @lgardner,@fiveten: Hey there guys - no can of worms whatsoever, so forward with this build and more of that paint that may or not be accurate. Thanks Spiros. You nailed it. Onwards!

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    Michael Turner said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    G'day Eric (@eb801),
    I use Gunze acrylic paints in the main, but I find their H69 RLM 75 to be too grey.
    I try and match the colour chip on my "The Official Monogram Painting Guide to German Aircraft 1935-1945). Therefore, I add a dash of red to it to bring out the violet shade (it is Grey-Violet after all).
    I really like both colours you have used, though and thing they match the reference quite well.

    I have the same kit to build and was going to build it for a club competition this year (along with a Hasegawa A-5 and an Eduard A-4), but I'm planning on building two Aussie Mk VIII and a Vc Spits instead (It's the RAAF centenary year, after all).

    I'm looking forward to following your build to completion.

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks Michael@michaelt for checking this build out. It does seem acrylic paints vary wildly from manufacturer to manufacturer. Since I'm the only one who looks at my completed builds, I often give up trying to be totally accurate getting the pigments correct. It's good enough for me. This is the first time I've used Ammo acrylics.

    On top of all this, i have noticed a huge disparity in color profile images of this particular Fw 190A-8 which further complicates achieving a reasonably accurate paint job. I have not been able to locate an actual photograph of this blue 4.

    But I must say these recent Eduard Fw190 kits are fun to build and very well thought out compared to their first go around with 190 kits back in 2006. Stay tuned for my next build posting addressing confusing color schemes for the same aircraft.

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    PAINT JOB TURNAROUND!
    I finally realized that I need to repaint the wings. This time I will airbrush it freehand instead of of using defined stencils with hard lines. For some reason I wasn't thinking clearly and followed the look of Eduard's color schemes regarding the wings. Plus my airbrush is giving heaps of grief.

    Which brings me to a subject that really bugs me when trying to figure out what is the correct paint job and camouflage pattern when all you have for reference are artist profiles to rely on. Seems like they all differ as I discovered researching the markings for this Fw190. I could not find any photographs of this Blue 4 but Eduard implies that they exist. Anybody know where? Here's a few profile examples:
    So who's correct?


    above: Eduard 2019 instructions

    above: Eduard 2006

    above: Valiant Wings Publishing - Airframe & Miniature No 7, 2nd edition, 2019

    above: profile reference for online war gaming.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Hi my friend @eb801!

    Well correct paint job and camouflage pattern in modeling, might be from simple and easily solved to more complicated and speculative, and of course, this has to do with the available sources and references! Pics, if exist, are priceless. I think I found a pic for your subject in ww2aircraft.net. Here is:

    And here is the link:

    https://ww2aircraft.net/forum/threads/done-1-32-focke-wulf-fw-190a-8-blau-4-jg-5-me-fw-group-build.28930/

    The pic looks blurred and of very low quality, but that's what it is...

    Anyways, in cases where I see different profiles for the same bird, I try to "translate" those profiles as best as I can, in order to discover the artist's inputs, in order to create those profiles. Then, I decide upon a solution and press on...

    Looking forward to your "turnaround" paintjob!

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @fiveten - thanks for forwarding that photo, blurry as it is. The other problem is the last remaining jar of ModelMaster RLM76 I have is almost totally empty and this darned paint keeps pulling up when I remove any tape even thought I thought a coat of Future would protect it. This is driving me nuts. The Vallejo and Mig paints stay put.

    I have noticed over the last couple of years, certain MM acrylic paints don’t adhere like they used to, so I wonder if Testors weakened the formula? I may have to get some Vallejo 76 and start all over. This is a first for me. Everything was going smoothly until this.

    I shall press on.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    Not familiar with acrylics, my friend @eb801...
    If you dilute them, is there any chance of changing the thinner with a more "aggressive" one that will "bite" the plastic? Just speculating...

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 3 months ago:

    @fiveten : not sure as I don't have enough MM RLM paint left to experiment with. I use Testor's thinner with MM acrylic paints. I suppose enamels have more bite but I never have used them.