REPSOL Honda RC213V - WIP

Started by Brian Mennenoh · 204 · 1 year ago
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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    @rory - Thanks Rory, I appreciate it. I sometimes feel like my attention to detail is a bit unnecessary. 🙂
    I did attempt to do 2 more exhaust springs. I decided, as one of the springs shot out of my tweezers, that they were an unneeded detail.

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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Hand cutting masks is a challenge. Rewarding when you can pull a long straight line really cleanly though.
    The first spot of Neon Red (TS-36) looks pretty sweet.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Great job with those masks and the red looks cool, my friend @brithebuilder!
    Interesting that Tamiya does not pre-cut the masks...

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Cutting those masks is not an easy task, Brian @brithebuilder
    Having the same "issue" with the Tamiya masks of my Brewster Buffalo.
    The neon red looks great.

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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    @fiveten - The masks in the Ford GT were pre cut. I also found it 'interesting' that they were not pre cut in this kit. Some pretty intricate cuts... makes it more rewarding I suppose!

    @johnb - It does seem odd that Tamiya pre cuts some masks and not others... I imagine there's a method to the madness somewhere.

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    George Williams said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Cutting out those masks is all part of the fun, @brithebuilder.

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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    @chinesegeorge - I can't disagree George! There are some intricate cuts that do require a sharp blade and a steady hand though.

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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Unmasked and clear coated. I realized that I didn't clear the front fender, fortunately it's not glued on. Gloss for all the body panels and semi for the fender. Once dry, I can hit the interiors, then assembly for decal work.

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    @fiveten, @gblair, @chinesegeorge, @johnb, @rory, @bikequeen, @kalamazoo - Question for all of you. As I begin the decals, I'm seeing that there will be decals on the glass... is it ok to apply clear gloss to the window? I want to seal in the decals but I don't want to damage the glass...

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Looking good after a coat of clear, Brian @brithebuilder
    Glad the fender was not glued on yet.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    On my one and only motorcycle build I did not apply clear gloss on the windshield, Brian @brithemodeler
    Although from a distance the decals on the windshield look perfect, a close up does show the edges of the decal.
    Not sure if you can apply gloss on the windshield without doing harm.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Hi, Brian (@brithebuilder): I wouldn't put clear gloss on the glass. I would seal the decals with either Future (or whatever the new name of it is) or a newer product designed for models called "Looks Like Glass" by Deluxe Materials. This stuff really does look like glass, but it isn't quite as tough as Future. You can brush it on with a soft brush, but be sure to get any brush marks off. It removes fairly easily using alcohol, just in case you don't like it or you want to remove the 1st attempt and try again. Most of the online hobby shops carry it, as does Amazon.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Final coat looks great, my friend @brithebuilder!

    You may choose either of the two above solutions from our friends @johnb and @gblair: John's is the simplest/safest, George's provides sealing, still I deem it "safe". Your call.

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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    @johnb, @gblair, @fiveten - I appreciate the input, I will have to check out the 'looks like glass' product.

    I was also doing some internet research and found this on Fine Scale Modeler https://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/p/184066/2098998.aspx
    One of the contributors has used gloss on clear parts with no issues. Someday I will test this. I never seem to have a spare windshield lying around though.
    I'll be interested to hear if anyone else chimes in.

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    Brian Mennenoh said 1 year, 6 months ago:

    Just read this:
    Mission Models Gloss can be thinned for dipping clear parts. Add 10 drops to an epoxy mixing cup. Dilute the 10 drops with Mission Models thinner until the clear looks slightly cloudy. The mixture should be watery thin with just a slightly cloudy look to it.

    Dip the canopy and wick off any excess and soak up excess from the edges with a cotton swab. Next: let dry on a paper towel and allow to dry. We prefer a full cure and safe cure time of 6 hours before masking over a canopy. Floor wax is now a thing of the past.