You are visiting iModeler as a Guest. Let's hope this is only a beginning.
Join iModeler today.
"I'd say that modeling is just one half of the hobby, and iModeler is the other 50%." @richardms
Hi, @brithebuilder, clear coating the windshield isn’t something I’d normally attempt, I just put a small dab of clear on the markings to make sure they stay in place. The windshield is usually the last thing I add to the model, they often clip in place with no cement needed. Hope this helps.
@chinesegeorge - I haven't built many things with clear parts as an adult. As a kid, I never clear coated anything. It does seem like a good idea to do the small dab of clear... I have both Citadel clear gloss and Vallejo gloss varnish. I'll give one of them a try and see how it goes. Thanks George.
Hi Brian @brithebuilder, why don't you put a scrap decal onto the clear sprue and spray clear on it and see what happens. If it doesn't work, then nothing lost.
@rory - It's not the decal I'm concerned with... I think we all clear over decals all the time... spraying gloss on the clear sprue is a great idea. If it doesn't fog it, then we're good to go.
@rory, @johnb, @gblair, @chinesegeorge, @fiveten - Three cheers for Rory! 2 coats of clear on the clear sprue tree and it's perfect. The plates on the tree with the sprue letter and such were actually more fogged before the gloss coat. The gloss did nothing to hurt the clearness of the rod sections. I guess the contributor to the thread on finescale models was correct. The true test will obviously be the windscreen itself, but I feel like it's not an issue now.
Great that the varnish does not affect thr clear sprue, my friend @brithebuilder!
@fiveten - I'm using Tamiya's clear gloss TS-13. It's not fully cured so it could still go south, but so far it seems to have no ill effect on the clear sprue.
I’m not really fully convinced about too much clear gloss finishes, @brithebuilder, my view, for what it’s worth, is that we’re trying to make scale models, and the super gloss finishes should be scaled down as well, but maybe that’s just me.
@chinesegeorge - I absolutely agree about trying to make things accurately at scale... how would you go about scaling the gloss? I'm not sure I understand... would you go with a semi gloss instead?
Great work, Brian (@brithebuilder). I tested the clear green on my B-25 on pieces of the clear sprue, so testing the clear is a great idea. Tamiya Clear is just about all I use. It has been very kind to me. I tend to also scale down the gloss. I think full gloss is too shiny, so I either use Tamiya Semi-gloss or I mix my own using 70% gloss and 30% flat.
@brithebuilder so sorry this is late. I learned not to shake colors with nail lacquer as it puts bubbles in it and then transfer them to the nails….so I guess it carried over to paint 🙂
@brithebuilder SWEET work on this Honda….Now I’m scared to do mine :>). Where did you get the aftermarket resin parts? Looking really good
@bikequeen - No worries Cricket, you've been busy yourself! Thanks! Makes sense about shaking the paints. I am glad it doesn't seem to be an issue with Tamiya's stuff. The aftermarket PE and resin parts are from Top Studios. topstudiohobby.com I picked up the Detail-Up Set, not the Super Detail Set. They probably have parts for all your bikes.
HOLY SMOKES! That site is GREAT! Thanks!
@brithebuilder where are you located? If you dont mind me asking 🙂
