1/48 scale Monogram B-24 J “Tubarao” assembly ship

Started by Louis Gardner · 75 · 1 year ago
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    Pedro L. Rocha said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Speaking about talent that whole new underwing panels look splendid, I’m curious seeing it completed. I understand you are using your favorite NMF tool, Bare metal foil?

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    Louis Gardner said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks Pedro.
    Yes it is going to be covered using Bare Metal Foil. I’ll typically use 3 different shades and Metalizer paint in some locations. This one has an advantage because it is painted in Green and Yellow stripes over approximately 1/2 of the airframe. That will help with the foil covering since this stuff gets expensive, especially when you’re building a large model as this one is.

    Please stay tuned for another update. Possibly later tonight.

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    Josh Patterson said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Louis, as far as the rivets go and there not being enough. It looks great! Learned a tip from this book I've had forever. (When I started to get "serious-er" about modeling.) "Representation, not duplication. Having every detail that is on the real subject put in your model may make it look cluttered, especially in smaller scales." Having the back of the nacelles open really improves the look. Too late for my D but I'm doing it on the J! (I may take a route involving less surgery though!) Just a question, how does BM Foil accept paint and is there a specific trick/tape for masking over it?

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    david leigh-smith said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Just read through several pages of this build log. What a joy.

    Outstanding skills, patience, and narrative, Louis.

    Thank you!

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    Louis Gardner said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Hello Josh, @jpatt1000

    Thanks for the input. I had decided to do exactly as you mentioned, and not add all of the rivets simply because in this 1/48 scale it would be nearly impossible to do... plus like you said, it would definitely look too cluttered. When I was studying the rivet patterns on "Witchcraft", I was amazed at the sheer number of them... You're talking thousands of rivets in a small section. This would be impossible to do in almost any scale other than a real life 1 to 1 size.

    Thanks for the compliments on the open ended nacelles. It would be OK to just open the ends up, but I wanted to have some of the wing surface showing inside, so I grafted in a new section of plastic to replicate it. It was a lot easier to do than it looks.

    Thanks again.

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    Louis Gardner said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    David my friend, @dirtylittlefokker

    Thanks for stopping by and reading this journal. I appreciate the complements. Stand by for another installment...

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    standing by . . . . . 🙂

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    Louis Gardner said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Last night I removed the wing skin on the other lower wing half. After about 30 minutes of careful surgery, I ended up with a wing section that looks like this.


    You can see both of the lower wing halves in this next photo.

    I decided not to cut away the forward section ahead of the wheel opening on this wing. The reason why is simple. I was able to remove the raised panel lines by carefully shaving them off and sanding the entire area.


    It left behind a ghost image in the silver plastic.

    I had another idea to make the exhaust look more like the real thing where it exits the turbos.

    So I simply drilled out the exhaust... and used my punch set to make a small round disc.


    The disc was then glued into the newly drilled hole and it represents the flap that is used to shut off the flow of exhaust gasses.

    I glued them in the open position.


    This was a very simple modification that will enhance the looks in my opinion.

    As always comments are encouraged.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    It is that attention to detail that makes all the difference in my humble opinion. Wonderful transmorph of this old kit! Thank you for taking the time to share, even though it keeps me away from my own builds (the glue has to dry anyway I guess).

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    capt. R said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    @lgardner I like bronze green shade in cockpit! Very realistic! Did you finish this model? Did You have FS number of this paint?

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    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Lis, @lis
    I used Model Master FS 34052 Marine Corps Green enamel. I thought it looked to be very close to the original color when sprayed. Sadly, this paint is no longer being manufactured since Model Master has been discontinued.

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    Eric Berg said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    @lgardner - Fascinating build you've got going here Louis. You really packed it with all your valuable research. Those vintage component library photos are quite a find. Nice to see you back to building a model again.

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    capt. R said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Sadly Mr Color don't have sth similar.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Lis, @lis
    See if you can find a bottle of German RLM 70. It's a dark green color and it's very close to being the same color as the one I mentioned earlier. It will likely be close enough for your needs.

    Eric, @eb801
    Thanks for the kind words buddy. I have been extremely busy with everything but building models it seems lately. Between going to physical therapy for my back, various doctors appointments and the restoration work on Sandy's truck, I have not had much time left to relax at the work bench. I have been very fortunate to have several friends helping me with the heavy lifting portions. I'm still on a 15 pound weight restriction after my neck surgery.

    The little bit of time I have left over for the hobby is not as much as I had hoped for, but I'll take it. 🙂

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    capt. R said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    RLM70 is easy to buy from all brands 🙂